Kowa Six MM Camera

My Kowa Six MM camera.

For some odd reason, I've always felt negative about Kowa cameras. It goes back to when I worked in a camera store in the mid- to late 1970s. The first job I had was handling camera repairs for the shop, which meant packing up the cameras, shipping them to the manufacturer or independent repair facilities, handling the repair estimates, pricing them when they came back from repairs, and calling the customers to let them know their camera was back and ready to be picked up. 

 I can remember when I received notices from many of the camera repair facilities that Kowa cameras were no longer serviceable due to a lack of parts, and that still sticks in my mind to this day. There was always a thought in the back of my mind that if you had a Kowa camera and something happened to it, it was not repairable. 

 It wasn't until many years later, and when I say many, probably 40 years later, that I visited a repair facility in Los Angeles. This person had many Kowa cameras and said he could repair them. He liked the quality of the camera. These weren't the 35mm Kowa camera but the Kowa Six medium-format camera. At that moment, my thought process switched, and the negative stigma of a horrible camera turned to something somewhat positive.

Kowa Six MM with grip.

 Fast-forward about five years, and I had the opportunity to pick up a Kowa Six MM camera for a reasonable price. I didn't know if the camera was in good working condition, but I knew where to get it fixed if it wasn't working.

 When the camera arrived, I started to fiddle with it for a bit, and my negative thoughts faded when the camera was in good working condition. The Kowa Six had a 55mm f3.5 lens, which I like, and a grip for the camera, which gave the purchase more value. As I was playing with the camera, I went from a negative feeling about the camera from many years ago, to WOW, this is a nice and well-built camera. It was time to put some film in the camera and see what this camera can do.

Company History:

Kowa, a Japanese company, has a long and fascinating history in optics, including producing high-quality cameras and lenses. Founded in 1894 as a trading company, Kowa Co., Ltd. initially focused on textiles and later expanded into various industries, including pharmaceuticals and electronics. Its entrance into the optical and photographic industry began in the mid-20th century, marking a significant era for the company.

Ad for Kowa Six camera.

 Kowa began producing photographic equipment in the 1950s, when Japan's camera industry flourished. One of its earliest camera lines was the Kowa Six, a medium-format 6x6 cm single-lens reflex (SLR) camera introduced in the early 1960s. The Kowa Six and its successors—the Kowa 6 MM and Kowa Super 66—became particularly popular among professional and serious amateur photographers due to their solid construction, sharp lenses, and competitive pricing. These cameras were often praised for their simplicity and reliability. They offered interchangeable lenses and accessories similar to more expensive competitors like Hasselblad.

 In addition to medium-format cameras, Kowa produced a range of 35mm film cameras. The Kowa SW, a fixed-lens wide-angle camera introduced in 1964, was particularly notable for its ultra-wide 28mm lens. Other models, like the Kowa SER and Kowa H series, featured leaf shutters and high-quality fixed lenses, catering to various photographic needs. Despite strong optical performance, Kowa's 35mm cameras struggled to gain significant market share, especially against major players like Canon, Nikon, and Minolta.

 Kowa eventually withdrew from the still camera market in the 1970s, focusing instead on its core strengths in optics and electronics. However, the company remained in the optical field, becoming well-known for producing spotting scopes, binoculars, and lenses for industrial and medical applications. Today, Kowa lenses are used in various professional contexts, from wildlife observation to television broadcasting.

 Though Kowa's time in the consumer camera market was relatively brief, its medium-format cameras have left a lasting impression. Collectors and film photography enthusiasts who value their durability, sharp optics, and mechanical precision still seek them out. While sometimes overlooked, Kowa's contribution to photographic history represents a unique chapter in Japan's post-war camera industry boom.

My Camera:

 My Kowa Six MM camera is 5" tall when the light chimney is closed and 7.5" tall with it open, 4.5" wide including the winding lever, and 4" deep without the lens attached. The serial number on my Kowa Six MM is 325240. The lens on my camera is the first of three generations and is a  55mm f3.5 lens. The serial number on my lens is 153507. One of the great things about the Kowa Six system is that all the lenses have leaf shutters built into them, which is very similar to the Hasselblad system. My Kowa Six MM with 55mm F3.5 lens weighs 4lb. 9.7oz without the side grip.

The shutter speed built into the lens goes from 1/500 to 1 sec. Along with "T" for timed exposure, the aperture ranges from F3.5 to F22. One of the advantages I found about the Kowa Six MM was how easy it is to set the focus, shutter speed, and aperture, which are all located on the lens barrel. Each setting has its ring and is easily moved and marked. The focus ring moves smoothly, and the shutter speed and aperture rings click into the desired setting. The lens also has the flash PC socket, along with a switch to set the 10-second self-timer (V), along with the flash settings for bulb (M), electronic flash (X). The shutter release is on the front and bottom right of the camera body. There is also a locking collar around the shutter release to prevent releasing the shutter when you don't want to.

 When reading about the camera, a few things were mentioned. One of the items mentioned was that the camera tends to move the focus slightly due to the mirror movement, causing the image to lose sharpness. I'm unsure if the focus or the camera is moving, which causes the image to be a bit soft, but I'll be aware of that when I shoot the camera.

 To view your subject, open the light chimney. Pull up on either side of the light chimney, and the viewfinder opens easily. There is a magnifier for critical focus, which you can activate by sliding a button along the back of the front. Sliding the button to the right pops up the magnifying lens. Pushing it down will lock it out of position. The light chimney has hinges on the side that must be squeezed together to close the viewfinder.

You can change to a different viewfinder by pressing a chrome button between the strap lug and film locking lug. Once the button is pressed, slide the viewfinder forward to remove it. You can also remove and change the focus screen by pressing the same chrome button and lifting the focusing screen. Put the focus screen back, line up the red dot on the camera with the red dot on the focusing screen, and drop the screen back into place. Pressing the chrome button to seat the focusing screen into position. You can slide the viewfinder back on, and it will lock into position once it's pushed back onto the camera.

The collar on the body must be turned counterclockwise to remove the lens. Before moving the collar, you'll need to wind the camera so the camera is in the "cocked" position and the mirror is down. You can move the collar somewhat, but until you slide the lens locking button back, the collar won't move the entire way to remove the lens. To put the lens back onto the camera, you'll line up the red mark on the lens to the red mark on the camera body, and turn the collar clockwise to lock the lens back onto the camera body.

To open the back to load film, turn the lever on the bottom of the camera to the "O" position, and the back of the camera unlocks. Lift the back door, which exposes the film chamber. Bring the empty reel from the bottom of the chamber to the top, which will now be your take-up spool. Pull out the film locking knobs on the side of the camera to put in the empty spool and the new roll of film you're loading into the camera. Bring the leader up to the empty spool and thread the lead into the slot and turn the winding knob on the right side of the camera to take up the loose film. There ia a handle built into the winding knob to make the turning of the knob easier. Keep winding until the "start" arrow points to the red dots on the sides of the shutter, close the back, and continue to wind until the winding lever stops. At this point, the frame counter will be on number one, and you're ready to start taking photos.

 The Kowa Six MM will take either 120 or 220 film. If you plan on shooting 220 film, be sure to change the pressure plate to the proper position, and on the side of the camera, make sure you've selected "24" on the selector between the strap lug and frame counter on the right side of the camera. Selecting 24 tells the camera you're shooting 24 images on 220 film instead of 12 exposures on 120 film.

You can also lock the mirror "up" by turning the knob on the right side of the camera to the "up" position. This function reduced camera vibration. You can also do double or multiple exposures on the Kowa Six MM. To do so, after your fist image, turn the knob on the top of right side of the camera from the orange dot and orange line which is for normal film advance to the red dot and red line. This is disengaging the film advance so you can do multiple exposures. Once you're done, turn the dial back to the orange dot and line position, and the film will advance.

As I mentioned, my Kowa Six MM camera has a side bracket, making it easy to hold and handle. Still, I didn't realize how nice this grip was when I went to take it off. Not only is there a nut that hold the bracket onto the camera, but there also a screw that locks the nut into place so it doesn't accidentally get unscrewed and have the camera fall off the grip.

My Results:

Since the clouds were moving in and out, I didn't want to shoot a slow-speed film, so I loaded the Kowa Six MM with a roll of Ilford 125 ISO film and proceeded to walk through the neighborhood, focusing on many of the spring flowers that have been blooming this time of year. After walking around, I went home and processed the film. Here are the results from my walk through the neighborhood.

My Conclusion.

WOW!!! Was I wrong for so many years? This camera worked fantastically and was fun to use. The viewfinder was bright, the magnifier was easy to use, the shutter speeds sounded accurate, and having the shutter speed, aperture ring, and focus all in the same spot was fantastic.

 The film advance was smooth, and carrying the camera with the grip made it very comfortable. I understand why the technician who coveted the Kowa liked the camera so much. The system offers nine lenses from 19mm to 500mm, different viewfinders and focusing screens, so it's complete. The price of these cameras is less than half of Hasselblad's, and they are smaller and easier to handle. I'll keep this camera for a while and see if I can expand the lenses I have for it. While I like the wide-angle lenses, getting an 85mm standard lens would be nice and slightly cut down on the weight.

 I love to hear from the people who read my posts. If you have a question or comment, please let me know. I'm always looking for ways to improve this experience.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Minolta-35 Model II

My Minolta-35, Model II

The Minolta-35 Model II camera I have was an unexpected discovery, purchased with several other cameras through an online auction. It wasn't the camera I was originally after in the lot, but the only thing that distinguished it in the photo was the fitted case, with 'Minolta' proudly displayed on the face.

 There were so many different models of camera from Minolta during this timeframe that I wasn't sure what was actually in the fitted case. Still, when I received the "lot" of cameras and uncased the Minolta-35, someone had painted the camera black. And whoever painted it did an abysmal job of it. I only wish I had photos of the camera in that state, but I didn't think of it then. The camera was painted black, and the shutter wasn't working. The good news is that the camera had a good and clean lens.

 Over the years, I have brought the camera to a few different collectible camera shows in hopes of selling it, but no sales have been made. 

 One day, a few months ago, I was browsing the cameras on my shelf, looking for one to write about, when I picked up the Minolta. I felt a personal connection to it, and determined to do a blog post, I sent it off to my trusty camera technician, Allen, at CameraWerks in NY to have it CLA'd. Despite its modest value, the fact that it's from the early 1950s and a very respectable Leica thread mount 'clone' made it worth the investment for me.

My Minolta-35, Model II with case.

 Before I sent the camera to Allen, I wanted to get the black paint off the camera and bring it back to the original chrome camera it was. I had bought some Acetone to see if I could gently get rid of the paint and not ruin any of the other parts of the camera. Unfortunately, the Acetone didn't work well and didn't take much of the paint off. Then, I noticed that if I used my fingernail, the paint would chip off reasonably easily. I also noticed that in our kitchen, we had some bamboo skewers, which seemed to work OK, so to get into some of the tighter spots, I used the bamboo skewer, and to get into the very tight areas, I used the tip of some of the metal tweezers I have for some very minor repairs.

 The camera still has some very minor spotting of black paint, as you'll see in the photos in the article, but 99.8% of the paint is gone. The camera looks considerably better than it did before. It's in great working condition, and even the rangefinder is clean and accurate, so it was time to do my blog on this early Minolta 35mm rangefinder camera.

The Company:

Minolta was a pioneering Japanese camera manufacturer known for its innovative contributions to photography. Founded in 1928 as Nichi-Doku Shashinki Shōten (which translates to "Japanese-German Camera Company"), the company was renamed Minolta in 1933. The name Minolta is derived from "Mechanismus, Instrumente, Optik und Linsen von Tashima," reflecting its German-Japanese technological collaboration.

Ad for Minolta 35 camera.

 Minolta's early cameras were heavily influenced by German designs, particularly Leica and Contax rangefinders. The company released its first camera, the Nifcarette, in 1929, followed by various medium-format folding cameras in the 1930s. After World War II, Minolta resumed camera production, releasing the Minolta-35 in 1947, which became Japan's first 35mm camera with a coupled rangefinder.

 Minolta's breakthrough came in 1958 with the Minolta SR-2, its first single-lens reflex (SLR) camera. Throughout the 1960s, the company expanded its SLR lineup, introducing the Minolta SR-T 101 in 1966, which featured an innovative through-the-lens (TTL) metering system. The 1970s saw Minolta partner with Leica, resulting in co-developed cameras like the Leica R3 and Minolta XE-7.

 One of Minolta's most revolutionary releases was the Minolta XD-7 (XD-11 in North America) in 1977, the world's first camera with aperture-priority and shutter-priority automatic exposure modes. This technological advancement set the stage for further automation in cameras.

 In 1985, Minolta changed the photography world with the Minolta Maxxum 7000 ( Alpha 7000 in Japan and Dynax 7000in Europe). This was the first SLR camera with fully integrated autofocus, making it far easier for photographers to achieve sharp images quickly. The Maxxum series gained popularity, pushing competitors like Canon and Nikon to accelerate their autofocus developments.

During the 1990s, Minolta expanded into digital imaging and compact cameras while maintaining its SLR dominance with the Dynax (Maxxum) series. The Minolta RD-175, released in 1995, was one of the earliest digital SLRs, marking Minolta's transition into the digital era.

 In 2003, Minolta merged with Konica, another Japanese camera giant, to form Konica Minolta. However, due to declining camera sales, Konica Minolta exited the camera business in 2006, selling its assets, including the popular A-mount system, to Sony. This acquisition helped Sony establish itself in the DSLR market, leading to the Alpha series that continues today.

Though Minolta as a brand no longer produces cameras, its legacy lives on through Sony's Alpha series, which traces its roots back to Minolta's innovative technologies.

My Camera:

My Minolta-35, Model II is 5 3/8" wide by 3" tall by 3" deep, which includes the Chiyoko Super Rokkor 5cm (50mm) F2.8 lens. If I take the lens off, the body only is 1.5" deep. The camera weighs 1 lb. 10.9 oz is a very comfortable camera size and weight, and it fits into my hands nicely. The Minolta-35 Model II has shutter speeds ranging from 1/500 down to 1 second, with "T" for timed exposures and "B" for bulb. 

 The Minolta-35 Model II also splits the shutter speeds into two different dials on the camera with the higher speeds on the top dial, which go from 1/500 to 1/25 and "B" and from 1/25 to 1 sec, and "T" on the secondary shutter speed dial on the front of the camera just above the self-timer. To set the shutter speed, you'll need to lift up the dial and turn it to the desired speed for the exposure. Changing the shutter speeds should only be done once you cock the shutter.

To use the secondary or lower shutter speeds, the top dial needs to be set to 1/25, and the lower speed dial needs to be set at whatever of the slower speeds you'll be shooting. This method is prevalent for Leica copy cameras from this era. 

 The Chiyoko Super Rokkor lens on my Minolta-35 is smooth and in excellent condition. To focus, similar to other Leica thread mount lenses, a locking pin is used to lock the lens to the infinity position. To release the lock and focus to a closer range, press the release button and turn the lens to the desired focus distance. Inside the camera is a built-in rangefinder, which will aid the photographer in the distance needed to take a sharp photo. Along the outer rim of the lens is the lens's aperture ring, which goes from F2.8 to F22.

The shutter release is on the top of the camera, just to the right of the shutter speed dial. A small crown-shaped piece surrounds it, which can be removed to use a cable release for the timed or longer exposure times built into the camera.

 Just above the shutter release is the rewind switch, which you slide to the "R" position to release the camera's drive gear so you can rewind the film back into the film canister when you complete the roll of film. Just to the right of the rewind switch is the film winding knob which has an arrow on top to show the user which direction to turn to advance the film to the next frame. At the bottom of the film winding knob is the frame counter which you need to zero out when you load a new roll of film into the camera so you'll know how many photos you've taken on the roll you loaded into the camera.

On the far left of the camera is the film rewind knob. Lift the knob up to make the rewinding of the film back into the film canisters easier. Once the back of the camera is open, you can lift the rewind knob even higher to remove or load the film canister in or out of the camera.

 Right in the middle of the camera, on the top plate, is the Minolta-35 name along with the serial number, which on my camera is 90899, and Chiyoda Kogaku. I enjoy the modernistic font used on the older Minolta camera, which is very elegant.

Top plate with name on the Minolta-35, Model II camera.

 On the back of the camera is the viewfinder window for focus, and on the outside is a dioptric adjustment. This is for people who wear glasses. Turning the dial around the finder window allows you to adjust your glasses prescription to correct vision issues. You can put the camera to your eye without wearing your glasses and still get a sharp photo. In the center of the back of the camera is the flash sync plug, which is just below the accessory shoe used for a flash attachment.

To open the camera to load film, there is a small knob on the bottom of the Minolta-35 that you'll need to turn counterclockwise until the "open" dot is lining up with the arrow. When this happens, the back of the camera springs open, and you load the camera just like you would any standard 35mm camera. 

Lift the rewind knob to load the film cassette into the camera. Pull the leader across the drive gears and put the film leader into the slot on the take-up spool. Take the tension of the film up by turning the rewind knob clockwise to take the slack up on the film. Close the back turn the open/close knob to the "closed" position to lock the camera's back, and wind to your first frame. Watch that the rewind knob is turning when you advance the film so you know the film is transporting in the camera, and set the frame counter to number one.

 

My Results:

I loaded my Minolta-35 camera with a roll of Ilford Pan F Plus 50 ISO black-and-white film. I wanted to use a slow speed to see how the camera would perform in lower-light situations. I also had my trusty Sekonic L-308 meter with me to achieve accurate exposures. I knew I could always count on Sekonic to give precise light readings. 

 Now that I had film loaded into the newly serviced camera, I walked through my yard and neighborhood to take photos with the Minolta-35 camera. Here are a few of the images I took on my walk.

My Conclusion:

The camera was enjoyable to photograph with. The rangefinder was bright and accurate. I tried many slow shutter speeds to see how the camera performed under these low-light circumstances. I had a great time using this camera and want to continue using it. The overhaul made a tremendous difference; without the black paint on the camera, it also looks terrific.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your busy schedule to read about this excellent rangefinder camera from Minolta

 Until next week, please be safe.