Kodak Panoram 1-Model D

My Kodak Panoram 1, Model D camera

Panoramic cameras and images have always fascinated me. The thought of seeing such a wide area in a photo seems so natural to me. Whenever I look at subjects, the human eye always sees a wide field of view, and narrowing it down to a smaller angle just seems peculiar to me. Even when I look through telephoto lenses, I want to see a wider angle, just closer. Unfortunately, that’s not how lenses work, so the ability to get a wider view is wonderful.

 The Kodak Panoram 1 is one of the first panoramic cameras I've owned. The first panoramic camera I bought was a Russian Horizont, a 35mm model that came with an accessory handle, viewfinder, and case. Unfortunately, this model of camera, due to the lack of workmanship, has a tendency for image "banding" as the lens doesn't rotate smoothly when making the exposure, so when the lens hesitates, it creates a change in exposure, creating a vertical exposure difference, which is darker due to the extra exposure time.

 I only had that camera for a short time, but it was a wonderful one to learn from, and from that experience I found the Kodak Panoram 1. One of the main reasons I knew about Kodak's early panoramic cameras was a set of negatives of two of my friends, which I purchased around 35 years ago. They were a set of 40 nitrate panoramic negatives, measuring 2 1/4" x 7", from a family who visited San Francisco and the surrounding area in 1906. There were photos of the rubble from the 1906 earthquake, along with other images of the family traveling up the delta to Sacramento and into the forest areas. If you're interested, here is a link to pictures from the aftermath of the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake.

 While researching the negative size and cameras built around 1900, I came across the Kodak Panoram 1 and the Multiscope Baby Al-Vista. I believe the Baby Al-Vista's negatives are just a bit smaller. At this point, due to my love of panoramic images, I really wanted to find a good Kodak Panoram 1 camera not only to have in my collection, but also to shoot with.

My Kodak Panoram 1, Model D with Case.

 The Kodak Panoram 1 camera used 105 film when it was manufactured, which is the same width as 120 film; the spools are just a bit different, as the flange is wider on 105 spools. Knowing that I could shoot 120 film in the Kodak Panoram 1 camera made it considerably more desirable. 

 Kodak also made larger Panoram cameras, the 3A and 4, which used larger film. The 3A produced 3 1/4" x 10 3/8" negatives on size 122 film; the 4 made 3 1/2" x 12" negatives on size 103 film. Since the necessary larger film is unavailable, choosing a usable Panoram was easy: I purchased the Panoram 1.

 The Kodak Panoram 1 comes in two distinct versions. There's the original Panoram 1, where the entire back of the camera comes off the body, revealing the curved arc of the film plane. The back of the camera is held to the camera body by two clips. 

 The second version of Kodak Panoram 1, the Model D, which I've had in my collection for 30-plus years, is slightly different. The back of the camera doesn't detach from the body, but, like some horizontal-folding cameras, there are buttons on either side you press to release it and fold it down. Then the camera's sides swing out to allow you to load and unload film.

 I have owned and restored several of both models, as the lens-swinging mechanism is the same, and the leather or suede bellows are similar. The main reason for the change in style was to reduce the camera's size. I prefer the original with the removable back, but both deliver fantastic images.

History of Kodak Panoram:

 Introduced by Eastman Kodak at the turn of the 20th century, the Kodak Panoram series democratized wide-angle photography, bringing it out of the domain of professional specialists and into the amateur market. Debuting in 1899 with the No. 4 and in 1900 with the smaller, popular No. 1, these "shoe-box"- shaped cameras remained in production until 1928.

Advertisment for the Kodak Panoram cameras

 The Panoram’s defining feature was its ingenious swing-lens mechanism. Unlike standard cameras with fixed lenses, the Panoram featured a lens mounted on a pivoting turret. When the shutter was triggered, the lens swung in an arc—typically between 112 and 142 degrees—sweeping light across a curved plane of film (the area of film bent to match the arc) at the back of the camera. This design minimized horizon distortion while capturing vast landscapes or large-group portraits in a single exposure. A swing-lens mechanism means the camera’s lens actually moves or "swings" during the exposure, rather than remaining stationary as in most cameras, to create a wide panoramic image.

 Aimed primarily at outdoor and travel use, Panoram cameras were used to document landscapes, expeditions, and colonial scenes, including polar exploration and industrial development in Southeast Asia. Their relatively simple wooden-and-leather construction, fixed focus, and minimal controls reflected Kodak’s broader strategy of making specialized photography accessible to non‑experts. At the same time, the nearly three‑decade production run indicates sustained popularity among enthusiasts of wide‑angle views.

 Three primary models defined the line: the No. 1 (using 105 film), the No. 4 (using 103 film for massive 12-inch negatives), and the short-lived No. 3A (introduced in 1926). While eventually displaced by newer formats and the 35mm revolution, the Panoram remains a cult classic today, prized by collectors and photographers for the unique, sweeping perspective that only a mechanical swing-lens can provide.

My Camera:

 My Kodak Panoram 1, Model D camera is 7.5" wide with the strap, by 4.5" deep by 4" tall, including the optical viewfinder, and weighs 1 pound 9.5 ounces without film loaded in the camera.

 To open the lens, pull down the front lens cover to reveal the swing lens to one side or the other. If it were pointing straight ahead, the lens cover wouldn't close. On the inside of the lens cover is the camera name, No. 1 Panoram, Kodak, Model D. On the bottom is the camera's serial number. My camera's serial number is 18986.

The camera is simple with minimal controls. On top is the etched nickel Kodak waist-level finder, which you lift to reveal the viewfinder. Behind the finder is the shutter speed selector. There are two notches: the one near the center is for a slower shutter speed, and pulling the selector to the end increases spring tension, making the lens swing faster at that speed.

 To set the speed, slide the bar opposite the lens direction. If the lens faces right, slide the bar left to set the next photo's shutter speed. Lock the chosen slow or fast speed with the clip under the selector bar. The shutter release is just right of the optical waist-level finder. Press the shutter button to release the lens and watch it swing to expose the film. Two lines form a "V" at the top, indicating the camera's approximate field of view.

As mentioned previously, to open the back to load the film, unclip the strap on the right side of the camera, then press in the two buttons on the sides of the camera, which will release the camera's back, and it will swing down, and the sides of the camera will also swing open, revealing the film chamber. There you'll see the curved film plane the film travels over, and the very impressive cone on the back of the lens guiding the light onto the film as the lens swings from one side to the other.

To load film into the camera can be a bit tricky because the newer plastic film reels—that is, the circular pieces at each end of a roll that hold the film—can at times be thicker than what was used originally back in the early 1900s, when Kodak would use metal for the reel ends and wood for the film cores, meaning the spools—the cylinder around which the film is wound—would be a bit thinner. When I went to load film for the blog post, I tried a brand I'd never used before. The spool was just a bit too thick and wouldn't fit into the camera easily, and once I did get it in, it was so stiff that the film wouldn't transport across the shutter easily.

 I loaded a new roll by placing the empty spool on the right, then lifting the winding lever and button to fit it. Then I placed the new roll on the left, brought the paper backing over the film plane, and threaded the leader into the empty spool slot. I wound the film until the start arrows appeared, pressed in the camera sides, and swung the back up to lock it.

Since 120 film isn't designed for panoramic cameras, the numbers 2, 6, 10, and 14 appear on the back of my camera. These indicate the frame numbers to stop at for each of the four photos on 120 film. I wound the film to 2 and was ready to take my first shot.

 

My Results:

 The film I loaded into the camera was an older roll of Kodak BW400CN film I purchased at a local camera show a few months ago. One thing about the film is that it needs to be processed in C-41 chemicals, which is a standard color film developing process. For the article, I wasn't sure I'd have enough time to get the film processed. Looking online, people mentioned the film can be processed in B&W (black-and-white) chemicals, so that's what I did. 

 There was a break in the rain on Sunday, so I loaded the film into the camera because the Kentmere I had didn't fit because the spool was too thick. I took the photo and went back to the house to develop the negatives. Maybe I didn't process the film long enough, since the images were extremely thin. I had to do some magic in Photoshop to get the images I have, so my apologies for the poor examples.

 However, I used the camera when I went to Yosemite a few years ago, and the images turned out great, so I'm adding a couple of color images from Yosemite to this blog to show how well the camera performs.

Conclusion:

 I've always been a huge fan of both the Multiscope Al-Vista and the Kodak Panoram camera. It's interesting that I've only owned the Panoram 1 camera and never the 3a or 4 Panoram, but I do have some of the larger Al-Vista cameras.

 The Panoram 1 is a fun camera to use, and the results are surprisingly good. I should have a camera with a smooth shutter. The cameras are compact, use 120 film, and, unfortunately, are becoming increasingly expensive as people learn about them and how much fun they are to use.

 Fortunately, I've had mine for many years, and I also have the camera case, which is a plus. It's just a real gem in my camera, and truthfully, I'm surprised I haven't written about it sooner than I have.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to read about his wonderful panoramic camera from over 100 years ago.

 Here's a link to my previous Camera Reviews.

 I also have an eBay shop, Cuny's Camera and Photo, where I sell cameras I've reviewed, along with other photo oddities. If you're interested in anything from my store, reach out to me, and I'll offer a discount. Just mention my blog.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Kodak Bantam Special

My Kodak Bantam Special camera.

There are a few cameras that, just due to their sheer design, stand out in any person's collection. Cameras like the Kodak Super Six-20, Polaroid SX-70, Welta Reflekta, and the Kodak Brownie Beau all have a very striking design, whether on the faceplate or the camera's overall design. In my opinion, the one camera that is the most striking and beautifully made is the subject of this week's camera collecting blog, the Kodak Bantam Special.

 The Kodak Bantam Special is a camera made between 1936 and 1948, during the heyday of camera innovation and manufacturing not only in the United States but worldwide. If you think about the cameras produced in this era, there were the Zeiss Ikon Contax I, II, and III. Leica had the IIIC, Ihagee had the Kine Exakta, Kodak produced the Retina, Medalist, Rolleiflex continued to improve their models, and companies like Argus, Voigtlander, Agfa, and in Japan, Canon produced the Hansa in 1936.

Kodak bantam Special with case, manual and original box.

 I've had my Kodak Bantam Special for 20 years or longer at this point, and one of the things I like about my Bantam Special is it's a very clean camera, with a working shutter, very bright viewfinder, a very nice case, the original box and instruction manual(s) too. When I opened the box to retrieve the case, I found two manuals inside. Something I have forgotten about.

 I've owned several different Kodak Bantam cameras, which are relatively common and easy to find, but the Bantam Special truly is a "special" camera. I've owned a couple before the one I have now, but they were in relatively poor condition, with either chips in the paint or a shutter that wasn't working. But when I found this camera online, not only was the price reasonable, but it was complete. The only thing it didn't have was the camera's hang tag, which is extremely difficult to find.

 As I was looking over the cameras above my desk, thinking about the camera I wanted to write about this week, my eyes skimmed over the Bantam Special, thinking I must have written about it in the past. Still, when I looked at my camera reviews, it was one I'd overlooked. 

 The reason it's been looked over was the lack of 828 film I have in my refrigerator, which I use to review cameras. I have many of the other film formats,  35mm, 120, 620, 116, and 127, but no 828. So, a couple of weeks ago, I went to the local vintage camera store in town, which carries several of the film sizes I shoot with, and bought a couple of rolls.

An artistic view of Kodak Bantam Special camera

 For the history section, I've already written about the history of George Eastman, Eastman Kodak, and Walter Dorwin Teague, my favorite camera designer, so I thought I'd talk a bit about the not-too-popular film size that went away almost 40 years ago, 828 film.

History:

 828 film is a niche but significant chapter in the evolution of roll-film photography. Introduced by Eastman Kodak in 1935, 828 was designed as an alternative to 35mm film for compact consumer cameras. Kodak developed it alongside the launch of the original Kodak Bantam, a stylish, pocket-sized camera meant to bring high-quality photography to a broader audience. The goal was to offer the image quality of 35mm negatives without the mechanical complexity and cost associated with perforated 35mm film cassettes.

Kodak Bantam Special ad with 828 film

 Physically, 828 film is 35mm wide, identical to standard 35mm film in width, but it is paper-backed like 120 film. Instead of the multiple perforations found in 35mm stock, 828 features a single registration hole per frame, which helped position each exposure. This simplified both camera design and film advancement mechanisms. The standard frame size—28×40 mm—is actually slightly larger than the 24×36 mm frame on typical 35mm film, giving it a modest image-quality advantage despite its amateur-market positioning.

 Throughout the late 1930s and 1940s, Kodak produced a variety of Bantam models that used 828 film, including several Art Deco designs, such as the Bantam Special, known for its high-quality lenses and elegant styling. Other camera manufacturers occasionally experimented with the format as well, but 828 remained overwhelmingly associated with Kodak.

 The format reached its peak popularity in the 1940s and early 1950s, especially in the United States. However, its momentum began to fade as 35mm film gained dominance, propelled by the rise of precision German and later Japanese cameras, reusable metal cassettes, and the convenience of automated processing. By the 1960s, 828 had become a minor format, kept alive mainly by Kodak's continued film production and the long lifespan of Bantam cameras already in circulation.

 Kodak manufactured 828 film until the mid-1980s, after which demand dwindled, and the film was discontinued. Today, 828 is considered an obsolete format, though it retains a small following among camera collectors and experimental photographers. Enthusiasts occasionally reload old 828 spools with cut-down 35mm film, keeping the distinctive format alive in a niche, hands-on way.

My Camera:

 My Kodak Bantam Special camera is 5" wide by 3" tall by 2" deep with the lens closed, and 4" deep when the lens is extended. It weighs 1 pound, 0.5 ounces with a roll of film loaded. The camera is very sleek and stylish, with a Kodak Anastigmat Ektar 45mm f/2.0 lens and a Compur Rapid shutter. The camera was distributed between 1936 and 1940 with the Compur Rapid shutter made in Germany; after the war, Kodak distributed the camera with a Supermatic shutter between 1941 and 1948. 

To open the camera to take a photo, press the button on the right side, right in the middle, adjacent to the lens door. The door swings open to the left as you hold the camera, which is the opposite of how the popular Kodak Retina line of cameras opens to take a photo. 

 Similar to the Kodak Retina, the Bantam Special's lens is on a lens board, which is attached to a short black bellows that extends as the lens extends, with a scissor-style truss connecting the lens board to the camera body.

To focus the lens, the camera incorporates a "military style" rangefinder system. The focus adjustment is in the upper-right corner of the lens board when you hold the camera. Sliding the lever down focuses the lens. The rangefinder is viewed through the left-hand window on the back and provides a magnified view of the subject you're focusing on. The rangefinder in my camera is very bright and easy to focus with. Just slide the focus lever until a vertical line becomes a single, straight line, which indicates the camera is focused. The viewfinder is the window on the right-hand side that allows the photographer to frame their subject. 

The focus ring is also used to close the lens back into the camera body. Slide the ring up past the infinity marker in the direction of the "close" arrow. The lens's door will unlock, allowing you to retract the lens back into the camera and shut the front door for transportation.

 The shutter speeds and aperture settings are done on two separate settings on the Compur Rapid shutter. The shutter speed range is from 1/500 to 1 sec, along with "B" and "T" settings. The Aperture range is from f/2.0 to f/16 and is set via a sliding lever on the bottom of the shutter.

The shutter's cocking lever is on top of the shutter system, and the shutter release button is in the lower right of the camera's shutter. The placement and size of the shutter release were the most challenging aspects of using the Kodak Bantam Special camera. I'd get the camera focused, set the exposure, set the shutter speed and aperture, frame, cock the shutter, and I kept missing the shutter release. It's relatively small, and while not hidden, it's not in a very convenient place. If there were a shutter release on the top of the camera similar to the Retina's, that would make the camera much easier to use.

To open the back to load the film, on the top left of the camera, as you're holding it, is a protruding clip you pull up to release the lock for the back door. Once open, the camera is like many roll film cameras, with the empty spool going under the winding lever and the new roll of film on the right side of the camera body. Pull the film's leader out, and across the shutter area, and slide the tab into the slot of the empty film spool. Wind the leader until you see the "start" sign on the film's paper backing and close the film door. Open the camera's green window on the back door to see the frame numbers appear, indicating when to stop and take your next photo.

According to the manual, there is a button on the back of the camera that unlocks the frame advance knob, allowing you to advance the film to the next frame. Either the "film for classics" film used to take photos didn't have an automatic frame stop, or the item on my camera wasn't working because I didn't need to press the button to advance the film, and the film didn't stop automatically at the next frame. Either way, it wasn't a significant hindrance, and I just stopped advancing the film when I saw the following number on the roll.

My results:

 Other than the difficulty I had finding the shutter release to take the photo, the camera was enjoyable to use. It's slim and fits nicely into my pocket when I walk around the neighborhood taking pictures. The shutter started to lag after the second shot on the roll, and the rest of the roll didn't turn out because of it. I exercised the shutter for an hour or so, running through all the shutter speeds, and that helped. Luckily, I purchased two rolls of film, and the following day, I loaded the camera and tried again, with much better results, as you can see from the examples below.

 The rangefinder was bright and extremely easy to use. The regular viewfinder was a bit small, but that's probably more to do with me getting older and having an eye issue with my "taking" eye, so I needed to swap over and shoot "left-eyed," which is something I'll need to get used to.

 I loaded a roll of Classics 828 film into the camera and walked the neighborhood for photos. With only eight frames per roll on 828 film, I can see why 35mm became more popular. That's not that many photos before having to change to the next roll of film.

 Anyway, here are the results from my walk around the neighborhood with my Kodak Bantam Special.

Conclusion:

 On a scale of 1 to 10 for camera usability, I'd give it a 7, but for overall appearance, artistry, and appeal, it's a solid 10 in my books. There aren't many other cameras with this one's overall beauty.

 The photos turned out terrific, and it was great fun to use. Other than the price of black-and-white film at over $20.00 per roll, I'd use the camera more often. Still, for special occasions, it is a great camera to use, and one I'm pleased to have in my collection, especially with the case, manual, and box.

 Here's a link to my other Camera Reviews.

 I have some of the reviewed cameras along with other interesting cameras and photo items in my eBay store, Cuny's Cameras and Photos. Please stop by, and if you mention the blog, I'll be happy to offer a discount.

 Thank you for taking the time to read about this fabulous camera from the late 1930s. The Kodak Bantam Special is just that, Special.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Hasselblad X-Pan

My Hasselblad X-Pan w/finder

Throughout my photographic career, my passion for panoramic images and cameras, as well as daguerreotypes, has consumed a significant part of my interest in collecting photographic items, including those with unusual or colored features. I recall the timeline when I first acquired specific working models of panoramic cameras.

 In my early days of collecting, I recall purchasing my first panoramic camera, a Russian-made 35mm Horizont camera. That camera helped spark the purchase and use of more panoramic cameras. When I bought a Kodak Panoram 1, I just put it on my shelf. When I found out that 120 film fit into the Kodak Panoram, Model 1 camera, I almost jumped for joy, because I could use it, rather than look and admire it.

 Wanting to add to the panoramic camera family, the elusive Widelux F7 was still years away, as I had a young family and was careful about the types of cameras I purchased to grow my collection. During this time, I came across a few Multiscope Al-Vista cameras, particularly the Baby, because, like the Kodak Panoram 1, the Baby Al-Vista also uses 120 film.

 As time went on, and the kids grew, and I advanced in my career, more funds became available to acquire the more exotic items that were previously out of reach financially when I was younger. A coworker had a friend who was selling an early Panon 120 panoramic camera for a very reasonable price, which I purchased and took with me to Peru’s Machu Picchu when my wife and I took a trip there.

 It was a decade ago when I finally had the chance to acquire a Widelux F7 model at an excellent price. Despite its cosmetic condition, I was determined to bring it back to life. After a visit to Precision Camera Works in Texas, the camera was given a new lease on life. Today, it's one of the most frequently used cameras in my collection, and the one that has captured many of the images in my panoramic section on my website.

My Hasselblad X-Pan w/30mm lens, finder, center filter, 3D printed lens hood and cap.

 The Hasselblad X-Pan was a camera I recall from its introduction to the market in 1998. Like several cameras from Hasselblad during those years, it was a collaboration with Fujifilm in Japan. Hasselblad sold the X-Pan worldwide, except in Japan. In Japan, Fujifilm had the TX-1, which was the same camera, just a different name and model number.

 It wasn't until about five years ago that I had the opportunity to purchase the X-Pan I currently have and am writing about in this post. The Hasselblad X-Pan is a significant addition to my collection, not only because of its unique features but also because of its history and the challenges I faced in acquiring it. I found it on an online auction, but the camera didn't have the standard lens; it only had a 30mm lens. No finder, and the top of the camera was missing the small plastic piece in front of the flash shoe. The camera was used very well, but its working condition was unknown.

 Examining other items being sold in the auction, I discovered a group of items that included the 30mm finder for the X-Pan. I notified the auction house that the finder from this lot should go with the camera from a different lot. They placed the finder in the lot with the X-Pan, which made the items more desirable, especially to me. 

 When it came time for the lot to be sold, I was surprised at the price it sold for, and fortunately for me, I was the high bidder. The price wasn't cheap, but for the items sold, it was a great deal. One of my first reactions was, Is the camera in working condition? I paid the shipping fees, and I just crossed my fingers that the camera wasn't a total wreck, but rather a pile of parts I needed to pay to get repaired. The anticipation and uncertainty of this process added to the thrill of acquiring this unique piece for my collection.

 Once the camera arrived, the first thing I noticed was its physical condition. There were many scratches on the body, and the item missing from the top, near the flash shoe, gave the camera a very "combat" look. The great news was that the center filter was there, which I hadn't noticed, and when I put batteries in the camera, it came to life. All the displays lit up, so I started to feel very good about the purchase.

 Once I put the finder on top of the camera, and it hid the missing piece by the flash shoe, I had a huge smile on my face. The next thing I needed to do was put a roll of film in the camera and try it out. After I did that and the film turned out well, I knew I had a keeper and one I needed to start adding to the rotation of shooting with, especially since it had the lens I desired, the 30mm wide-angle lens and finder.

History:

 The history of Hasselblad, the iconic Swedish camera manufacturer, is inextricably linked to the passion and ambition of its founder, Victor Hasselblad (1906–1978). Though the family business, F.W. Hasselblad & Co., began in 1841 as a trading company, it was Victor's innate interest in photography—fueled by a childhood passion for birdwatching—that transformed the firm into a global innovator. After training in the optics industry across Europe and the United States, even working under Kodak founder George Eastman, Victor opened his own shop, Victor Foto, in Gothenburg in 1937. 

 The pivotal moment for the company arrived during World War II. In 1940, the Swedish military tasked Victor with reverse-engineering and improving a German aerial surveillance camera that had been recovered. His reported reply—"No, but I can make a better one"—set the standard for the company's future. He founded Victor Hasselblad AB in 1941 to manufacture the HK-7 military camera, laying the groundwork for the company's subsequent civilian production.

After the war, Victor applied his modular military design to the consumer market, launching the Hasselblad 1600F in 1948. This medium-format, single-lens reflex (SLR) camera, with its distinctive modular design featuring interchangeable lenses, viewfinders, and film magazines, quickly became the gold standard for professional photographers worldwide, especially with the introduction of the robust 500 series in the 1950s.

 Hasselblad secured its legendary status through its partnership with NASA, which began in 1962. Astronaut Walter Schirra, an avid photographer, suggested using his personal Hasselblad 500C to document space missions. NASA modified the cameras to withstand the harsh conditions of space, and the Hasselblad became the camera system of choice for American spaceflight. The climax of this partnership occurred on July 20, 1969, when a Hasselblad Data Camera (HDC) captured the historic first steps on the Moon, solidifying the brand's legacy as a true pioneer in imaging technology.

My Camera:

 My Hasselblad X-Pan is 7" wide by 3.25" tall without the 30mm viewfinder and 5.5" tall with the viewfinder by 3.5" deep from the back of the camera to the front of the lens. The camera weighs 2 pounds, 9.6 ounces with the 30mm f/5.6 lens. The camera body serial number is 11EE13969, and the lens serial # is 8SXP13110. I purchased an aftermarket, 3D-printed lens hood and cap for the 30mm lens, which fits well. However, it is shifting on the lens and not staying in the proper position, so I may have to spring for an actual Hasselblad-made hood and cap.

The camera is powered by 2 CR2, 3V photo batteries, which, like many cameras, fit into the bottom of the camera. Most of the controls are located on the top of the camera. Going left to right is the camera's hot shoe for flash. That's something I don't use, except for sliding the 30mm viewfinder onto the hot shoe and then screwing it down to hold it in place.

 To the right of the hot shoe is the shutter speed dial, which ranges from 1/1000 to a full 8-second exposure, accompanied by a green "A" for Auto mode. In the case of the X-Pan, when the selector is set to the green "A" position, the camera is in "aperture preferred" metering, which means you select the desired aperture, and the camera will choose the appropriate shutter speed depending on the film's ISO and the lighting conditions. Even in "auto" mode, there are warning signals within the viewfinder that indicate if you are overexposed or using a shutter speed longer than 2 seconds.

If the camera is not in the "auto" exposure mode and you're selecting both the shutter speed and aperture, a series of lights and signals, indicated by +/-, appears within the viewfinder, showing what a properly exposed image will look like depending on the selected shutter speed and aperture.

 To the right of the shutter speed dial is the shutter release, marked in silver, and a small window behind the shutter release that displays "P" if you're in panoramic mode, as well as the frame number you're on. Further to the right is the main On/Off switch at the bottom, along with "S" for single frame, "C" for continuous shooting, and a clock face for self timer. Turn the On/Off switch to the desired mode, and the camera will be on. On top of the dial is exposure compensation, which allows for up to 2 stops of light lighter or darker than the recommended meter settings when in the "A" or auto mode. These are set in half-stop increments on the dial.

On the back of the camera, from left to right and top to bottom, is the camera's viewfinder, which incorporates a coupled rangefinder. My rangefinder is very bright, which makes the camera extremely easy to focus with. Just above the camera's viewfinder is the 30mm viewfinder. The viewfinder features several different frame lines, depending on the film format used, along with a bubble or spirit level at the bottom to check if your camera is level.

To the right of the camera's viewfinder is an essential switch. The X-Pan camera is compatible with the standard 24x35mm film format. Alternatively, by depressing the button and turning the dial to the "P" position, you can shoot in a panoramic format of 24 mm x 65 mm. On the back of the camera by the shutter, the camera will move blades in or out depending on the film format you're using. I've never really heard photographers using the X-Pan as a standard 35mm camera, only for panoramic purposes, but this can change at any time, and you can go back and forth on the same roll of film if desired.

On the back of the camera, on the back door, there are three settings. Ine is "AEB", or Auto Exposure Bracketing, which allows the photographer to automatically bracket either a half or full stop in between shots. The next button is used to light up the display, which is particularly useful at night or in dark situations. The third button is a very small, indented button that you use to rewind the film before reaching the end of the roll.

 On the front of the camera, in the 11 o'clock position, is a dial to set the film speed. The camera features fully integrated DX coding for modern film. However, if you're using a self-loaded cassette or older non-DX-coded cassettes, the ISO can be set manually. Below the dial is the lens release button, which allows the photographer to change lenses. Opposite the camera is the PC flash sync port, which enables flash use via a PC cable.

On the left side of the camera, the shutter remote cable socket is located at the top, and the camera's film door lock lever is positioned at the bottom. Flip the lever up, then slide it up to open the camera's film back and load the film.

 To load the film in the X-Pan, insert the film cassette into the film area, guide the leader to the take-up wheel, and then close the back of the camera. The camera will automatically wind the film all the way out of the cassette and onto the take-up spool before you take your first image. 

As a man, and not having read the manual before loading the camera, I started to get concerned. When I closed the door on my initial roll of film and heard the film advance for so long, I thought the camera was broken and needed servicing. That's just how the X-Pan winds film. When you receive your film back and examine the frame numbers, you will notice that the first frame, or Frame #1, is actually the last image you took, and number 36 is the first image.

 

My Results:

 My wife and I took a drive to Multnomah Falls outside Portland, and since I was going to write about this camera, I took it with me to see how it would perform. 

 Honestly, it's only the third or fourth time I've taken the camera out to shoot with it, mainly because I shoot with the Widelux so much, but this was an excellent time to see how the camera performed.

 The day was overcast, but the crowds were small, and since it had rained recently, the falls were rushing. After shooting the falls, we went into their restaurant to have lunch.

 Here are photos from that small adventure.

Conclusion:

 WOW, what amazing images and camera. I understand why so many people enjoy shooting with this camera. It doesn't have the swing lens curvature like the Widelux has. The X-Pan offers modern advancements over the Widelux, such as auto-exposure, exposure bracketing, and other features, but is physically larger and heavier.

 There's a trade-off for all things, but I'll definitely be using the X-Pan more often. It made shooting very simple and easy. I needed to focus on my subject with the X-Pan, which isn't a bad thing, and the images turned out great.

Another excellent feature of the X-Pan is that it’s a “system” camera, allowing for the use of other lenses. There is a standard wide-angle 45mm f/4 lens, along with a compact telephoto 90mm f/4 lens.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes to read about this fantastic panoramic camera from Hasselblad. A camera I'm fortunate to have in the collection.

 Here's a link to my other Camera Reviews.

 I also have an online store, Cuny's Cameras and Photo. If you see something in my store that interests you, don't hesitate to make me an offer. I'm always looking to negotiate and make deals, and I'd love it if you could share my article.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Whitehouse Beacon Cameras

My Whitehouse Beacon cameras

When I was starting to collect cameras, I would collect anything —from straightforward box cameras and point-and-shoot cameras to fundamental bakelite cameras. As you begin to refine your interest in collecting a particular item, the focus becomes a bit more narrow, and the items that you see so often, like Kodak Brownies and bakelite holiday cameras, become less and less interesting. 

 I'm sure that's true with collecting anything. You're always on the hunt for odd, unusual, rare, or exotic items, whether it's cameras, firearms, cars, or sports memorabilia. Once I got over the initial phase of buying "any camera", I started collecting cameras with color to them. Kodak Rainbow box and folding camera, some of the bakelite Imperial camera, Boy and Girl Scout cameras, or even a box camera with odd and unusual faces on them, like the Bear Photo camera, or the Century of Progress cameras. To this day, it's difficult for me not to pick up and look at any colored camera, and I will most likely purchase one if the price is right.

 The Beacon camera was one of the cameras that started in my initial phase of collecting and continued into the next phase of collecting cameras with color. To this day, I can remember walking through a local flea market and seeing a familiar shape of the Beacon camera, but this one was in a different color. I had only owned the black version before, but this one was greenish-turquoise. When the seller quoted a few dollars, I snatched it up right away. The Beacon camera came in traditional black, as well as white, red, and green.

My three Beacons

 I purchased the red Beacon camera well over 35 years ago, when there was no internet, and the only places you could see items like this were at camera shows, camera collecting books, which usually weren't in color, or people selling things at garage sales or flea markets. I remember thumbing through the McKeown's Camera guide, which I had back then. It was considerably smaller, but it did mention whether cameras came in different color versions.

 When eBay launched in the late 1990s, I was an early adopter and joined in 1997. At that time, there were no product photos; only descriptions. It was more of a message board of people buying and selling items. My first number was 1034, this was even before you had a name on eBay. eBay changed the way people collect so many items. The market became flooded with items that were difficult to get before eBay, and their prices dropped. So many antique stores and other retailers were affected by them until they started selling on the marketplace, and it has now become such a vast entity.

 I can even remember starting a similar auction site aimed at the photo marketplace in the early 2000s, and I was going to call it Photo Flea Market, where people could buy and sell cameras, lenses, vintage gear, and even images like prints, Daguerreotypes, Ambrotypes, etc. Try to keep it more focused on one particular industry, but like many ideas, it went by the wayside.

Camera History:

Patent Drawing for Beacon camera

 The Beacon camera was manufactured by Whitehouse Products Inc. of Brooklyn, NY, starting in the late 1940s. My friend, podcaster, and excellent camera blogger Mike Eckman has a tremendous post on the History of Whitehouse Products where he deep dives into a famous woman named Vira Boarman Whitehouse, (Mrs. Norman De R. Whitehouse) who was mainly know as a suffragette leader in the 1920 that had a leather company who employed many women, and who also championed company's to go from a 48 hour work week to a 40 hour week. It's truly a fantastic read.

 Whitehouse Products produced the Beacon line of cameras, along with another simple camera in the 1960s, the Beacon Reflex camera, Automatic 705, and the Autoflash WH 127-A, which Ansco also sold. My favorite Whitehouse camera was the 1970s novelty Charlie Tuna Camera, which I also have in my collection.

 The one thing I can be sure of is that William L Lawson was the designer and inventor of the Beacon camera. I conducted a patent search and identified the initial design of the camera, produced in 1948. It's for the original Beacon camera, which also included two shutter speed settings. The two speeds were either "I" for instant or "B" for bulb, or timed exposures. The later Beacon II model removed the ability to set the shutter speed, as shown on my camera. The original Beacon and later Beacon II models took 16 images on 127-size film, producing a 3x4cm negative. 

 Later in the 1950s, Whitehouse produced the Beacon Two-twenty Five. A larger version of the Beacon and Beacon II, which took 12, 6x6cm images on 620 film. This is the camera I used to produce the images included in the post.

My Camera:

 My Beacon Two-Twenty Five is 4" tall by 5.5" wide by 3.5" deep with the lens extended, and 2.25" deep with the lens compressed into the camera body. It weighs 13.7 ounces. The camera has a 70mm Doublet lens with an aperture of F/8, which would be my best guess, possibly a bit faster. To say this camera has no bells or whistles is an understatement, and there are only a few things you need to do to take a photo.

To load the film, on the right side of the camera is the latch to open the back door. Slide the button down to open the back, and swing the door open to reveal where to load the film. This camera takes 620 film, but there is nothing to help load or unload the film roll from the film chamber. Since I had some 620 film, I needed to force the roll of film into place before I tore the tape off and slid the paper backing across the film plane to put the leader into the take-up spool. It wasn't very easy, but I got it done.

Once the film is on the take-up spool, I wound it until I saw the "start" arrows, then closed the back of the camera. I wound the take-up knob until I saw the number 1 in the viewfinder. The camera is now ready to take the first photo.

 Before taking the photos, you'll need to pull the lens area out of the camera body using the two grips on either side of the lens. Once the lens is pulled out, it snaps or locks into place with two wide silver bars located behind the grip. If you don't pull the lens out, your photos won't be blurry. To take the picture, the chrome shutter release is located on the top of the lens chamber. My guess is the shutter speed is around 1/60 of a second.

Once the photos have been taken, press in the two chrome bars that lock the lens into place at the rear of the camera body, and the lens chamber will slide back into the camera body.

 If you'll be using the Beacon flash attachment, attach the flash once the lens is extended. First, the flash takes two penlight batteries, which fit into the back of the flash attachment. On the back, under the reflector, is a small clip that needs to be pulled back to expose the battery compartment. Close the battery cover, slide the front of the flash unit under the lens chamber, then slide the flash over the top of the camera until it's in place, then screw it into the camera body using the small screw on the back of the flash.

The flash units take either size 5, 11, or 22 flashbulbs. Here's a link to Mike Butkus manual for the Beacon camera and the Beacon flash.

 The camera is fundamental to its functions, but let's take a look at the images it produces.

 

My results:

 I loaded up a roll of 620 film I keep for camera testing, and took a walk through the neighborhood. Since the day was cloudy, I had to wait for the sun to come out so I'd get better results.

 Here are a few of the images I took.

Conclusion:

 The Beacon did a better job than I anticipated, especially given its simple camera. No focus, shutter, or aperture settings. It's truly a "point and shoot" style camera, specifically designed for family snapshots. The edges are soft, as expected, but overall not too bad.

 I doubt I'll be taking the camera on an important vacation, but my curiosity got the better of me. I wanted to see how it would perform, and it wasn't horrible.

 Thank you for taking time from your day to read about this snapshot camera from the late 1940s, for the original Beacon, to the 1950s, for the Beacon Two-Twenty Five, which I used for the post.

 Here's a link to my other Camera Reviews.

 If you are looking for an odd or unusual photo item, be sure to stop by Cuny's Camera and Photo, my eBay store.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex III (853/16) camera

My Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex III camera

My first real camera, a Univex Uniflex, was a gift from my Uncle Bud, my mother's younger brother. He was a free-spirited soul, living a bohemian lifestyle that left a lasting impression on me and my older brother. This camera, a symbol of his unique spirit, became my gateway to the world of photography. 

 Uncle Bud was the photographer in the family gatherings, went to art school in Chicago, where he met his wife, made wine, went antiquing, purchased an old school bus, and was converting it into a camper for the family, was health-conscious, all of this in the 1960s, as I was young and impressionable. 

 I tell you this because the Univex Uniflex was a somewhat inexpensive twin-lens reflex camera that I used for many of my early years taking photos, so the twin-lens reflex style has always felt comfortable to me. I've always enjoyed looking through a larger viewfinder and framing my subject, albeit backward when looking down into the camera. It's similar to looking through a view camera, although the view camera isn't backwards, just upside down. 

 Last week, as my wife and I were in Yosemite and the San Francisco Bay Area. One of the reasons we went there was that on the first Sunday of the month, there's a large flea market in Alameda, which I miss since moving away from the area about 9 years ago. I planned the trip partly to visit the flea market and look for cameras and other photo items.

 I arrived at the flea market early and started looking over the many tables. At one of the tables, I found this fantastic Zeiss Ikoflex III camera I've been looking for for many years. As I picked up the camera, the shutter worked at higher speeds and lagged at lower speeds. The lens was clean and the transport worked well. 

 After a bit of negotiation, I left the flea market with the Ikoflex III and a few other small items. The joy of this find was so great that I couldn't wait to share it with you, my fellow camera enthusiasts. Even though I had recently written about the Zeiss Contaflex camera, the Ikoflex III was a gem that I couldn't wait to put a roll of film into and share its story on my camera blog.

Ikoflex History:

 The Zeiss Ikoflex emerged in 1934 as Zeiss Ikon's direct answer to the burgeoning success of the Franke & Heidecke Rolleiflex. The inaugural model, affectionately nicknamed the "Coffee Can" for its distinctive upright, cylindrical body, marked a departure from the more conventional TLR design. This initial offering was a clear statement of intent from the German optics giant to compete in the professional and enthusiast photographer market.

Ad for Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex III camera

 Throughout its production, which spanned until 1960, the Ikoflex series underwent significant evolution, with a clear demarcation between its pre-war and post-war iterations. Before World War II, Zeiss Ikon introduced several models, progressively refining the design and features. The early lever-wind and knob-wind "Coffee Can" models gave way to more streamlined, traditionally styled TLRs. These pre-war cameras often featured high-quality Zeiss lenses, such as the Tessar and Novar. They were equipped with Compur or Klio shutters, offering photographers a range of options in terms of both price and performance. A notable pre-war innovation was the Ikoflex III, introduced in 1939, which boasted a fast f/2.8 Tessar lens and a unique Albada direct-vision viewfinder integrated into the focusing hood, setting it apart from its contemporaries.

 Following the end of the war, Zeiss Ikon resumed production in West Germany and continued developing the Ikoflex line. The post-war models, such as the Ikoflex Ia and IIa, reflected the technological advancements of the era. These cameras often featured coated lenses for improved contrast and flare reduction, as well as synchronized flash capabilities. The final models in the series, like the Ikoflex Favorit, even incorporated a built-in, uncoupled light meter, a significant feature for the time.

 Despite its innovative features and the esteemed Zeiss pedigree, the Ikoflex line always existed in the shadow of the Rolleiflex. While highly capable and well-regarded for their robust build and excellent optics, the Ikoflex cameras ultimately ceased production in 1960, leaving behind a legacy as a compelling, if not dominant, force in the golden age of twin-lens reflex photography.

My Camera:

 My Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex is in very good condition, except for some of the slower shutter speeds, which I'll exercise and hopefully bring back to life; otherwise, I'll have it CLA'd. The camera's serial number is 836152, and it has a Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 8cm f/2.8 lens, serial number 1851589. The camera is 6" tall when the light chimney is closed and 8" tall when it is open, by 4" wide, including the focus knob and film winding lever, and by 4.25" deep when the camera is focused at infinity.

To open the light chimney and look into the viewfinder, on the back of the camera, behind the closed chimney, is a button to press to open it. Unlike many twin-lens reflex cameras, the light chimney opens from the front rather than the rear, which I find interesting. On the right side of the back wall, the small switch locks and unlocks the flip-up magnifying glass for critical focus on the ground glass. On the side walls of the light chimney are "Zeiss Ikon" on one side and an exposure index on the other.

 If you want to use the Albada sports finder, it shows bright frame lines as you peer through it, and the front of the light chimney is a very polished, mirror-like surface, very similar to the previously mentioned Zeiss Ikon Contaflex TLR camera. To close the chimney, fold down the sides, then the front, and finally the rear portion. 

Similar to the Rolleiflex, both the aperture and shutter speed settings can be viewed when peering down the light chimney. Two separate windows show the aperture setting on the left and the shutter speed on the right. To move either setting, there's a lever on each side of the lens; slide it up or down to change the setting. The shutter speeds go from 1/400 to 1 sec, along with "B" for timed exposures. The aperture goes from F/2.8 to F/22. Just behind the shutter-speed slider is the cable release socket. Just to the right of the lens is a small round window that shows black when the shutter is tripped, and red when the shutter is cocked and ready to shoot.

On the right side of the camera, from top to bottom, is the frame counter in a stylized circular window, placed directly behind the shutter release. To activate the shutter, you press down on the shutter release to take the photo, which I prefer to pressing into the camera's body. The main object on the right side of the camera is the transport/winding lever. It is so much more than just a film transport lever; it also cocks the shutter with only about half a rotation. 

On the left side of the Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex II camera is the focus knob, which has a minimum focus distance of 4' to infinity. Just above the focus knob is the depth-of-field scale for the different apertures. Above and below the focus knob are two knurled knobs that can be pulled out to load and unload the film once the back of the camera is opened.

To open the back of the camera to load the film, there is a small disk on the back that is pulled down to open the back. The back will flip down, unlike Rolleiflex cameras, where the back pulls up. Loading the film is just like any other twin-lens reflex camera. Once the new film is on the bottom, bring the lead to the top spool and thread it into the slot, and wind the transport lever. Do this until the arrows on the paper backing point to two white dots on the side of the film chamber. At this point, close the back and wind until you see frame number 1 in the frame counter. Do not go past the first frame (frame 1) in the film counter, or you'll lose images on the film. This may be a flaw in my camera, but at first it doesn't stop at frame 1.

 

My Results:

 The forecast for the end of last week called for rain, so on Wednesday, I loaded up the camera with film and took a short drive to Duggan Falls in Washougal, WA. It's about a 30-minute drive. While it was overcast, it wasn't raining, and I wanted to try the Ikoflex III before the rain hit.

 The camera produced very sharp images. Here are a few photos I took at the falls.

Conclusion:

 The Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex III camera was an absolute pleasure to shoot with. It was similar to many other twin-lens reflex cameras. The viewfinder could have been a bit brighter, but the focus knob was smooth and easy to move. The shutter speed and aperture windows seem a tad dark, but the camera is close to 90 years old, so a good CLA would brighten them up nicely.

 I really enjoyed the short turn of the transport lever. I was surprised that such a small motion would properly transport the film AND cock the shutter, too. It does a fantastic job, and it's one of the reasons I enjoyed the camera so much. Overall, an excellent camera to have in the collection, and one I'll be taking out more often to shoot with, given how sharp the images are.

 Thank you for taking the time out of your day to learn about this fantastic vintage German camera.

 Here's a link to my other Camera Reviews.

 I also have a store on eBay, Cuny's Camera and Photo. Stop by sometime and see what cameras and other photo oddities I have for sale.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Ensign Ful-Vue camera

My Ensign Ful-Vue camera

My wife and I were planning a trip back to California, visiting one of my favorite places on earth, Yosemite, and then heading to San Francisco to visit a friend whom we had moved away from nine years ago. We had been going to Yosemite together since before we were married in the mid-1970s, and there are just so many beautiful and memorable events that have happened there. It doesn't matter what time of year you go; there are things to see and photograph that make it a magical place for us to visit.

 As I was browsing through the many cameras on my shelves, I must have had a subconscious desire for the Ensign Ful-Vue camera. As I looked at the camera and thought about Yosemite, I noticed that the shape of the top of the camera's viewfinder resembles the shape of Half Dome in Yosemite Valley. 

 As I've mentioned in several blogs, I have a passion for colored cameras, so I have two different Ful-Vue cameras in my collection. I have an Ensign Ful-Vue camera that's red in color. Why have a black camera when there are cameras in various colors? This camera was also sold in Black, White, and Blue colors. The other Ful-Vue camera I have is a Ross Ensign Ful-Vue Super in burgundy. The Ross Ensign Ful-Vue Super is a later and more refined camera than the earlier Ful-Vue I took to Yosemite.

The two Ful-Vue cameras in my collection

 It might be fun to put a roll of film into the camera and take it with me to Yosemite. It doesn't take much room in my bag, and I have plenty of 120-size film in my refrigerator, so that's the plan. As I was packing for the trip, I threw a roll of 120 T-Max 400 film, along with the Ensign Ful-Vue camera (a Half Dome lookalike), into my bag and took it with me on the trip.

 Another thought about taking the Ensign Ful-Vue to Yosemite was that the camera is straightforward, and it would be fun to take snapshots of Yosemite as my wife and I walked around the park, taking in all the natural wonders. It would be like I was 8 years old, and I would take my Kodak Holiday camera on summer vacations, taking random photos of the family and other interesting views. 

 That's where my love for photography began, wandering through summer vacation spots with my family, taking photos of the interesting things I enjoyed, and looking back at them to remember the time spent with my family or friends. To this day, I look back at photos with friends that we took when we were younger, and many bring a smile to my face as I recall these memorable times.

History:

 Houghton and Ensign were pivotal names in the history of British photography and camera manufacturing, known for innovation, extensive product lines, and significant contributions to photographic technology from the 19th to the mid-20th century.

French ad for the Ensign Fun-Vue camera

 The roots of Houghton trace back to 1834, when George Houghton, together with Frenchman Antoine Claudet, managed a glass warehouse in London known as Claudet & Houghton. The company initially focused on optical and sheet glass products, but the rise of photography in the late 1830s opened new avenues, with Houghton quickly supplying materials for Daguerreotypes.

 After Claudet died in 1867, the firm became George Houghton & Son, as George Houghton's son joined the business. The family firm steadily expanded, becoming George Houghton & Sons by 1892, and deepened its involvement in the photographic equipment industry.

 By the late 19th century, Houghton was producing a wider range of photographic supplies and had become a full-fledged manufacturer of cameras. Among their early notable products was the Sanderson camera, produced from 1895 to about 1910, which became renowned for its quality. In 1901, they launched the Ensign brand of photographic film, marking the rise of a name that would soon become synonymous with the company's signature camera line.

 In 1903, Houghton introduced Ensign Daylight Loading Film, a crucial development that broadened consumer access to photography. This innovation was followed by the absorption of several other camera firms in 1904, including Holmes Bros. (makers of the Sanderson), A.C. Jackson, Spratt Bros., and Joseph Levi & Co., which formed Houghtons Ltd. This move enabled large-scale production and a wider range of camera selections.

Ad with different colors available

 With their expansion and absorption of other brands, Houghton established the Ensign Works in Walthamstow around 1905. By 1908, it was the largest British camera factory, employing over 700 people. Houghton's reputation was further cemented with magazine cameras such as the Klito and the innovative folding Ensignette.

 In 1915, Houghton's Ltd. partnered with W. Butcher & Sons to form the Houghton-Butcher Manufacturing Company. The merger strengthened their manufacturing and distribution during turbulent times.

 In 1930, Ensign Ltd. was formally established, representing the heritage of both Houghton's and Butcher's. The Ensign Ful-Vue, introduced in 1939, became iconic for its simplicity and bright viewfinder, attracting amateur photographers and children. Throughout the 1930s and 1940s, Ensign was renowned for its box cameras and advanced folding models, such as the Multex.

 World War II brought massive challenges. The company's London headquarters suffered severe bomb damage in 1940. While Ensign continued to manufacture at Walthamstow, the brand's prominence waned in the post-war years.

 From its origins in optical glass to producing some of Britain's finest and most popular cameras, Houghton and Ensign chart a history of adaptability, invention, and a lasting impact on the UK photographic market.

My Camera:

 My Ensign Ful-Vue is 4" tall by 4.25" deep and 3.25" wide, and weighs 14.2 ounces, so not even a pound. It's viewfinder on top is one of the dominate features of the camera. The size of the viewfinder itself is 1.5" square on the top of the camera, and with the camera being the small stature it is, makes the viewfinder seem huge when looking at the camera.

The Ensign Ful-Vue camera is the epitome of the classic snapshot camera, as there are really only a few settings on the camera that you need to make before snapping the photo. There is a shutter setting for either "I" for instant or "T" for time, allowing for a longer exposure. There is a tripod socket on the bottom of the camera, but there is no cable release socket available for use if you want to make a timed exposure with the camera.

 The other setting in the Ensign Ful-Vue camera is focus. The lens is set to three different focus distances: 2 meters, 3-5 meters, and 6 meters to infinity. Turn the chrome rig and point the red dot on the front of the ring to the desired distance to set your focus distance. There is a separate flash PC outlet to connect an external flash, ideal for low-light photography. The flash would have to be screwed into the tripod socket, and it would be located on the left side of the camera, I guess.

To take a photo, the shutter release is located below the black nameplate, where the lens is positioned, and is pulled up to activate the shutter in the camera.

 Loading the film is pretty straightforward on the Ensign Ful-Vue. On the left side of the camera is a locking lever that you turn clockwise to unlock the film chamber from the camera body. Once the film back is unlocked, the film chamber slides out of the camera body. Once the film chamber is removed from the camera body, you load the camera like any other roll film camera. Just ensure the film covers the larger area, rather than the thinner area closer to the lens.

 Once the film is loaded into the film chamber, slide the chamber back into the camera body and secure it in place by turning the locking ring counterclockwise to lock it into position. On the right side of the camera is the camera's film advance knob. Turn the knob until you see the arrows inside the red window on the back of the camera. 

Just above the red window on the back of the camera is a small knob that opens and closes the curtain, preventing light from coming through the red window. Make sure the curtain is open so you can see the film advancing. If you don't, you'll wonder when it will get to number one and go through the entire roll of film before noticing something is wrong. Once you see the arrows, slow down because you're coming to number one and your first exposure.

 

My Results:

 The Ensign Ful-Vue was a great camera to take to Yosemite, although looking back, the one thing I wish I had taken was a comparison photo of the Ensign Ful-Vue and Half Dome. I should have taken a picture with my phone of me holding the camera up with Half Dome in the background to show the comparison between the two. Like they say, hindsight is 20/20.

 The camera actually did pretty well. The photos are relatively sharp, the viewfinder was HUGH and bright to look through. 

 Here are a few examples of the photos in Yosemite and San Francisco.

Conclusion:

 The camera was what I expected. The viewfinder was very easy to work with and made centering the image easy. The only thing I wish the camera had that I was surprised it didn't have was the ability to use different aperture settings. Generally, even the most basic of cameras offer the option of two different apertures. Not on the Ensign Ful-Vue, though.

 Thank you for taking the time to read about this very basic, but oddly shaped camera. It was fun to throw it in my camera bag and have something fundamental to use at times.

 Here's a link to some of my other Camera Reviews.

 Stop by Cuny's Camera and Photo if you're interested in purchasing some of the cameras I've reviewed. I also have many other photo odds and ends that interest you.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Eho Baby Box camera

My Eho Baby Box camera

During my search for cameras, I found many of the very common black folding or box Kodak cameras, as well as the plentiful Argus C3 and Polaroid cameras. However, it's rare to come across something that sparks an interest. I can't define the feeling very well, but when you attend a Flea market or Garage sale and walk up to a table to see something you like or haven't seen before. It's a surprise, and you get a tiny rush from it.

 That's what happened when I first saw the Eho Baby Box camera. I was at a Flea market probably 20 years ago, and a person had a cloth on the ground with several cameras on it. I visually scanned through the lot and found the regular Kodak box, folding and Polaroid cameras, but something didn't make sense when I peeked behind one of the cameras.

 I could see the top of the camera, which had a small handle on it. I thought it was part of another camera, but as I moved a bit, I could see it was a separate camera itself. Thinking, that's interesting, I went in to have a closer look, and that's when I saw the Eho Baby Box camera.

 It really piqued my interest, as I hadn't seen this manufacturer's baby camera before. I've seen and owned the Baby Zeiss box camera, but the squareness and manufacturer were new to me at the time. Picking it up and playing with it, the camera was in clean condition, and the shutter was working, at least most of the time. The camera even had an intact strap with the maker's name on it, which I always prefer.

 Since the camera had a strap and a somewhat working shutter, I wanted to know what the seller wanted for it, so when I asked, the seller said $5.00. Being a person who likes to haggle on price,  I had to ask if he would take $3.00, which he did. I paid the seller the money for the camera, and I was thrilled to have a new addition to my camera family, especially since I discovered a camera manufacturer I wasn't aware of, and for such a small and cute camera.

History:

 Eho-Altissa was a German camera manufacturer with a rich history tied to the evolution of photographic technology in the 20th century. The company originated in 1892 in Leipzig under Richard Knoll as "Photo Spezialhaus" and began repairing and building its own photography equipment from 1904 onwards. In 1910, the operation relocated to Dresden, a hub for Germany's camera production. By 1927, ownership was transferred to Emil Hofert, who renamed it "Eho" after his initials.

 By the early 1930s, the company was manufacturing box cameras, known for their simplicity and reliability, and often rebranded for warehouse and supplier stores under various names. The mechanician Karl Heinrich Altmann designed the notable Altissa Box camera line, which featured an eye-level viewer, differentiating it from other box cameras of the era. Several stereo and twin-lens reflex (TLR) models followed, including the Altiflex in 1937, a notable reflex camera of its time.

Ad for Eho Baby Box camera

 In 1939, the company introduced its Altix series of compact 35mm viewfinder cameras, marking the beginning of a legacy that lasted nearly two decades. The Altix models were key innovations for Eho-Altissa, and their popularity solidified the company's reputation for offering affordable, high-quality cameras with reliable mechanics.

 Throughout its development, the company underwent several renamings. In 1931, it became EHO-Kamerafabrik GmbH. During and after World War II, it transitioned to Amca Werk Berthold Altmann (1940). Altissa Camera Werk (1941), and finally, in 1952, VEB Altissa Camera Werk was nationalized under the East German state.

 World War II severely affected Eho-Altissa; its Dresden factory was destroyed during Allied bombing raids. Nevertheless, the company was revived post-war, with camera production resuming by 1947. The firm remained small enough to avoid early state intervention but was eventually nationalized in 1959, merging with VEB Kamera- und Kinowerke, which was later incorporated into VEB Pentacon.

Camera output ceased in 1961. Notably, the Altix VI model continued to be produced briefly under license in Sarajevo, Yugoslavia, using equipment from the shuttered factory.

 Eho-Altissa produced renowned models such as the Altissa Box series, Altiflex, and Altix, and supplied rebranded products to European photo retailers. Its story reflects the broader turmoil and adaptability of the German camera industry in the wake of economic and political change throughout the 20th century.

My Camera:

 The Eho Baby Box camera is very small, measuring 2 5/8" tall by 2 3/8" wide and 2 3/8" deep, so almost a perfect cube, and weighing only 6.8 ounces. This is one of the smallest, if not the smallest, box cameras I have that still accepts a standard 127-sized roll film, which was common for the time the camera was manufactured. The camera features dual red windows on the back, allowing it to produce 16 3x4cm-sized negatives on a roll of film.

The camera was made between 1932 and 1939 and comes with a fixed-focus Eho Doplar lens that's fixed at F/11. The Eho Baby Box camera is made of metal with a leatherette covering and features a classic chrome ring around its face. The camera has a chrome lever on top that allows you to change the aperture from F/11 to F/22, based on the size of the aperture's opening.

Shutter speed “Z” slide, Cable release socket and shutter release

All of the other camera controls are on the right side of the Eho Baby Box camera. On the bottom right of the camera is a lever with a "Z". This is the shutter speed control. If the lever is pressed in, the shutter clicks at its normal speed. However, if pulled out, the camera can perform a timed exposure for as long as the shutter is depressed. Just above the "Z" lever is a cable release socket. If you plan to take a timed exposure, place the camera on a stable surface, as there is no tripod mount on the bottom, and hold the cable release in for the required exposure time.

It is odd to have a camera with a cable release socket, but no way to secure the camera on a tripod. Then again, the camera is tiny, and adding a tripod socket to the bottom would increase its size.

 Just above the cable release socket is the shutter release, which has a lined grip on the metal, making it easier to grip, especially when needed, as the lever is relatively small. Above the shutter release is one of the two waist-level viewfinder windows. The one on this side of the camera is for vertical, or portrait, images, and the one at the top of the camera is for horizontal, or landscape, images.

To open the camera to load film into it, you'll need to pull out two levers on the right side of the camera. Both levers are located closest to the separation between the front and rear of the camera. Pulling out the two tabs unlocks the front of the camera from the rear, exposing the area where you load the 127-size film. Take the empty spool from the bottom of the camera and place it in the top, which is now the take-up spool. Load the fresh roll on the bottom and pull the leader over the shutter area. Then, place the leader in the slot of the take-up spool.

 Put the back on the camera, and press the two clips to lock the front to the back. Wind the film until you see arrows or some indication that you're approaching the first frame. Wind slowly until you see the number 1 appear in the bottom red window. At this point, you're ready to take your first image. After taking the first picture, wind the film slowly until you see the number 1 in the top red window. This is when you're ready to take your second photo. Follow the same process with the number that first appears in the bottom red window, then in the top one, through number 8. After you take your last frame with the number 8 at the top of the window, wind the film to the end. The film should then be ready to be taped closed and processed.

My Results:

 Before inserting a roll of 127-size film into my Eho Baby Box camera, I tested the shutter. It clicked 9 out of 10 times, so I was confident that even though the camera would miss a frame or two, I'd have enough images from a roll of film to pick four or five to put in the blog post.

 After taking my first image, which required me to click the shutter release twice to capture a photo, the camera refused to cooperate for most of the roll. On the times the shutter didn't fire, I did notice that the shutter would partially open, but not fully, so the film was only getting a small sliver of light through a portion of the lens. This happened for the majority of the roll of film, and I managed to capture only 2-3 fairly good images from it.

 Here are the results of the better images taken:

Conclusion:

 To say I was a bit disappointed is an understatement. I'm more upset that the camera's shutter messed up during the shoot, and when I see how nice the two good images are, it would have been great to have 12-13 more to choose from for the article.

 Overall, the good images are pretty good, so if the shutter were in good working order, the camera would have been enjoyable to carry around or put in your pocket and travel with. It's small, a pocketable camera, and produces nice images; you don't have to worry about a tear in the bellows like with other pocket cameras.

 It's certainly a great camera to have in the collection, and a good step from the subminiature style of cameras and the folding pocket cameras. I like the camera and am happy to have it, although I'm frustrated by the timing issue with the shutter not working.

 Click on the link to see my other Cameras Reviews.

 If you'd like to browse some of the cameras, lenses, and accessories I have for sale, please visit my eBay store at Cuny's Camera and Photo.

 Thank you for taking the time to read about this tiny gem of a camera. 

 Until next week, please be safe.

 

Argus Model C camera

My Argus Model C camera

During my time working in a camera store from the mid-1970s until the mid-1990s, I must have seen hundreds, if not thousands, of Argus cameras, and to be more specific, the Argus C3, or as they were affectionately known as, "The Brick" because of their boxy shape and very sturdy construction. These cameras came in on an almost daily basis just because they were so popular back in the 1940s and '50s.

 I saw so many Argus C3 cameras in my time in the camera store that, when it came to collecting cameras, I had no interest in collecting this particular model. Yet, it seemed like every time I purchased a group or "lot" of cameras, there was always an Argus C3 in the groupings of cameras. 

 I still recall thinking that if I collected enough Argus C3 cameras, I could build a retaining wall in my front yard out of them, as it was cheaper to get the Argus C3 than to purchase real clay bricks.

 To this day, I still see the Argus C3, or similar models like the C2, C3 Matchmatic, or C33, all the time at people's garage sales, estate sales, and camera shows. It is undoubtedly one of the most sold cameras in the history of photography.

 With that said, I'm still looking for one model, which I'm certain I came across during my time at the camera shop. It's the original Argus Model C camera, featuring a dual range switch located under the shutter cocking lever. It's a little earlier than the camera in this blog post, but the pricing for one of these is higher than I'm willing to pay for, so I'll wait and see if I can find one during my quest for a camera. 

 For me, the fun is the hunt for the treasures. The thrill comes from finding a camera or other photo item I've been looking for, especially when it's in an unexpected place and hopefully at a reasonable price.

History:

 Argus Cameras holds a unique place in photographic history as a pioneering American camera manufacturer that made high-quality photography accessible to the masses. The company was founded in 1931 in Ann Arbor, Michigan, as the International Radio Corporation (IRC), by local businessmen including William E. Brown Jr., George Burke, and Charles Albert Verschoor. Initially, IRC's primary business was radios, but seasonal sales fluctuations led Verschoor to seek another product to stabilize revenue. Inspired by the success of his molded plastic radio cases, he envisioned an affordable camera built with similar materials.

This is the early version with switch under cocking lever

 In 1936, IRC launched the Argus Model A, the first low-cost 35mm camera manufactured in the United States. Priced at just $12.50 when most competing models were much more expensive, the Model A democratized 35mm photography and quickly found commercial success. The Model A's innovation lay in its molded plastic body, making it both durable and less costly to produce.

 This success prompted IRC to focus entirely on cameras, eventually adopting the name Argus, Inc. in 1944, and later Argus Cameras, Inc. in 1949. The company's most iconic product, the Argus C3, was introduced in 1939. With its brick-like appearance and robust rangefinder mechanism, the C3 became known as "The Brick" and enjoyed a production run lasting until 1966, with more than two million units sold. The C3 is widely regarded as one of the best-selling cameras in photographic history.

 During World War II, Argus shifted its production to support the war effort, manufacturing military optics and radio equipment for the U.S. and Allied armed forces. By the war's end, Argus had received multiple Army-Navy "E" Awards for excellence in production. After the war, civilian production resumed, and Argus became the second-largest U.S. camera manufacturer, trailing only Kodak.

 In the late 1950s, the company was acquired by Sylvania Electric Products and later sold to Mansfield Industries. Over time, as competition intensified, especially from Japanese manufacturers, Argus struggled to maintain its leadership. U.S. camera production ended by 1969, but the Argus brand persisted in importing photographic products.

Today, vintage Argus cameras, especially the Model A and C3, are valued collectibles. The legacy of Argus endures as a symbol of inventive American manufacturing and mass-market photographic innovation.

My Camera:

 My Argus C dates from 1938, has a serial number of 12127C, so it's not one of the earliest models, but it was introduced before the Argus C2 was introduced in late 1938. The Model C measures 5 3/8" wide by 3" tall, including the shutter release, by 3" deep, including the lens. My Argus Model C camera weighs 1 pound, 7.4 ounces without film loaded in the camera.

The camera has a 50mm f3.5 Argus lens with aperture settings of F/3.5, 4.5, 6.3, 11, & 18, which are odd compared to aperture settings now. The aperture setting is made by turning a ring with two knobs on the inside of the lens that line up with a black line on top of the lens. 

The item missing on early Model C cameras is the coupling gear connecting the focusing ring on the top left to the lens, which adjusts the lens distance during focusing. To focus this model, look through the rangefinder window on the back of the camera, bring the two lines together to focus, and then check the front of the rangefinder dial to determine your distance from the subject. Finally, set that distance on the lens. On the side of the lens, there are markings indicating the focusing distances for the subject. There is an aluminum thread in style lens cap for the Argus Model C camera I own.

The shutter speed dial is located on the top right-hand side of the camera, on the front. The shutter speed settings are 1/300, 200, 150, 100, 75, 50, 30, 20, 10 & 5. There is no "B" setting on the shutter speed dial. The "B" setting is actually set on the "mushroom" shaped shutter release. You can turn the shutter release to either settings, "I" for instant, or to "B" for bulb, or timed exposures.

 The camera's shutter also needs to be cocked before you can snap the photo. The shutter cocking lever is located on the front of the camera, positioned on the far left side, in the middle. It looks like a handle that you flip down to cock the shutter, then springs back up after the shutter is released.

 On the back of the camera are just two small viewfinders. The one on the right is the rangefinder, which has a split that, by turning the focus wheel, will bring two separated vertical lines into one straight line when focused. The other window on the left is the framing window used to frame your subject when you're ready to take the photo.

To open the back to load the film, press the bump on the left side of the camera. This presses in a bar that holds the back onto the body. My camera is very difficult to open by just pressing the button, so I sometimes need to use a small screwdriver to pry the back up slightly to get it to open.

 Once open, the camera looks like any other 35mm camera, with the take-up spool on the left side. The fresh roll fits onto the right side by pulling pot the rewind knob on the bottom of the camera, bring the lead over to the take up spool, and thread into the take up spool. The film advance knob is on top of the camera. To wind to the first frame, there is a small locking lever just behind the frame counter that needs to be pressed down. This unlocks the winding gear, allowing you to wind to the first frame. Close the back of the camera and start taking photos.

This process must be repeated every time you wish to advance to the next frame. Additionally, at the end of the roll, the locking lever must be pressed down to unlock the drive gears, allowing the film to be rewound into the 35 mm cassette.

 The real reason to write about this camera was more of an exercise on how easy it was to use the early Mode Cameras, especially during a time of rapid change with cameras. Like many cameras from this era, it's not the quick and easy cameras of today, where either the shutter or aperture is being set for you. In many circumstances, both settings are being set. 

 To use cameras from this era, you need to take your time and use an external light meter to get the proper settings for your camera. Set the shutter speed and aperture settings depending on the film used. Do you lean more to the aperture and depth of field, or shutter speeds and stopping motion? Then focus on your subject. In this case, focus, then transfer the settings to the lens regarding distance. Frame your image and take the photo.

 On my camera, I also have an accessory finder, which clips onto the top for showing what a 35mm wide-angle or 100mm telephoto will do. I leave it on my camera to hide a bit of paint scratched off by it, as it's more for show, and I don't have either of these lenses. There were several different lenses available for the Argus C line of cameras, as the lens just unthreaded from the body. 

My Results:

 Once you slow down and think about the process, which I'm very used to, the images are really nice. Here are a few from my walk around the neighborhood.

 I photograph similar items, which I am sure you'll notice if you're a regular reader.

Conclusion:

 While the camera isn't the most ergonomic one I've used, it's certainly not the worst.

 The camera performed very well. The images are sharp, and the shutter and aperture were easy to use. The one thing that slowed me down was the process of focusing, then transferring the distance to the lens before taking the photo. The addition of the coupling gear between the focusing wheel and the lens, which sets the distance on the lens, was a vast improvement for Argus. Without this improvement, I doubt they would have sold the number of cameras as they did.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to familiarize yourself with this early model camera from Argus.

 Here is a link to my other camera reviews.

I also have a shop on eBay, Cuny's Cameras and Photo. Please stop by and see what new and wonderful photo items I have for sale.

 Until next week, please be safe. 

Photo-See Camera Outfit

My Photo-See camera, developing tank and instruction manual.

Almost 20 years before Dr. Land and Polaroid made instant photography world famous, a camera called the Photo-See was introduced in 1936. This company brought a very short-lived and straightforward box camera, along with a pocket-sized developing tank, to the market. These two items enable the photographer to take a photo and develop it without needing to send the film to be processed and printed.

 I don't remember when I purchased the Photo-See camera. I know it was well over 20 years ago. When I bought the photo see cameras, there were at least two, possibly three, of the same camera purchased in a lot of cameras purchased. 

 Several years ago, I recall selling one or two of the cameras on eBay. It wasn't until recently that I understood that there are two parts to this camera. The camera itself, and the developing tank in which the film for the camera was placed and processed.

 Initially, I thought the developing tank fit onto the back of the camera, but I was wrong. The developing tank is actually a separate part that the film from the photo camera fits into, allowing the photographer to process the film at any time they want to. The idea was that the photographer could take the photo, then have the print ready within a few minutes.

 

The History:

The Photo-See camera was the brainchild of Herman Casler, who was born in 1867 in Sandwich, IL, and raised in Fort Plain, NY. Over his lifetime, Casler invented and patented several different products and was also a partner in K.M.C.D. Syndicate, this was along with W.K.-L. Dickson, Elias Koopman, and Henry N. "Harry" Marvin. 

American Mutoscope and Biograph Founders, 1895. Casler upper right.

 Casler, Dickson, and Marvin collaborated in 1893 on a detective camera, the size of a watch, called the Photoret. The Photoret was a watch based on a pocket watch, similar to the Expo camera.

 Casler started his career as a Draftsman for General Electric Co., designing electric rock drills. He became the superintendent of Marvin Drill Company in 1895, which Harry Marvin owned.

 Casler, following Dickson's proposal, invented the Mutoscope, which displayed short films through flip-cards rotated by a hand crank that could be slowed down or sped up at the operator's will by turning the crank faster or slower. The prototype of the Mutograph camera was completed in November 1894, first tested with film in June 1895, and the first official Mutoscope films were made in August 1895.

Patent for Photo-See camera

 Marvin & Casler Co. was formed in 1896, where they manufactured the Mutoscope, which was very popular in nickelodeons during this time. The Mutoscope and Thomas Edison's Kinetoscope are the beginning of the motion picture business as we know it.

 His work in inventing motion picture cameras, projectors, and other motion picture equipment extended well beyond the 1920s, where he helped develop a more miniature hand-cranked motion picture camera and a three-pronged shutter that helped reduce flicker during projection.

 Herman Casler is also the inventor of the Photo-See camera, which was patented in 1937. The company was short-lived, as Casler passed away in 1939, and I don't see production of the camera continuing much after his death.

The Camera & Developing Tank:

 The Photo-See camera is a straightforward box camera design with a few differences, which I'll explain. The camera is 4" tall by 3 "wide by 4.5" deep, including the focusing device, and weighs 12.3 ounces.

 The front of the camera features a distinctive Art Deco design, which is enhanced by a sticker applied to the front of the camera. The camera is made from a thicker cardboard material, featuring a two-part, fold-up viewfinder on top. It's said the viewfinder is put on backwards, but that's not the case, as I find it to work better than the other way.

 On the left side of the camera are three controls; on top is the shutter control. When the bar is "in," the camera takes a regular snapshot, and when it's "out", the shutter stays open for a more prolonged exposure. This is similar to other box cameras from the same time period. The middle slider controls the aperture setting. They are Small, Medium, and Large. The bottom lever is the shutter release.

On the back of the camera, there are three main controls. The bar at the top is pulled down to remove the film from the camera. The smaller round disk on top is turned from the 3:00 to the 9:00 position to expose the film when you're ready to take a photograph. Then the disk is in the 9:00 position, which also locks the top bar, so you cannot take the back off when the film is ready to be exposed. Under the small disk is a larger disk, known as the focusing disk, which is turned to the desired distance from your subject. This is achieved by adjusting the internal focus of the film, moving it back, in, or out, which enables the film to shift its focus from 3 feet to infinity.

When you remove the film back and look inside, you'll see that it's spring-loaded, where you would load the film pack into the camera. The motion of the smaller disk on the outside of the back moved a pin on the inside up and down, which would open a dark slide, allowing light to hit the film once the shutter release was flipped. Moving the disk back to the original position closes the dark slide.

The Photo-See camera, when used in the vertical position, takes a horizontal image, and to take a vertical photo, you turn the camera to the horizontal position. Very similar to how half-frame cameras work.

 The Developing tank is 4.5" long by 3.75" wide by 2.5" deep, and weighs 9.4 ounces. The tank is composed of two parts and held together by a locking arm and a clip that wraps around the tank. Unlocking the arm swings the bar out of the way. On the back side are two spring-loaded clips that need to be squeezed to disassemble the tank. 

Once apart, you slide the locking lever away and turn the disk on the tank to the "up" position. This allows the film to be loaded into the tank. Put the back onto the tank, and turn the disk to the "down position, which exposes the film to the chemicals. Once the film is in the tank, you assemble the two pieces and lock them together to initiate the processing. 

 According to the manual, four bottles and four packets of chemicals are needed for developing your image. #1 is the developer, #2 is the bleacher, #3 is the clearer, and #4 is the toner. Pour the packets into the numbered bottles, fill them with water, and mix. Pour the contents into the larger opening for developing. This camera produces photos and not negatives. Once developed, the final image size is 1 11/16 x 1 1/8 inches.

 

Results:

Unfortunately, the film for this camera isn't available, so I have no images to show from it. Heck, I've been looking for film for this for many years and have not seen one for sale anywhere.

 

Conclusion:

This camera is such an oddball, I couldn't resist writing about it, especially since it was many years ahead of its time. I understand that the process is lengthy, that you need to carry chemicals, and that the image size is small. These factors were the reason why this didn't gain popularity.

 It's nice to have an almost complete system in the collection. A film pack and the box would be nice, but having the camera, developing tank, and manual is good.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes to read about this odd and unusual camera from almost 90 years ago.

 Click on the link to see my other camera reviews.

 Cuny's Camera & Photo is my eBay store, where I sell some of the cameras I've reviewed, along with other camera-related items.

 Until next week, please be safe. 

Photax 1 camera

My Photax camera

This summer, as my wife and I visited Barcelona on a day when my wife was working, I decided to go to the local flea market to look for photo items to add to my collection. Attending local flea markets is something I look forward to, especially when we visit new cities and countries. My main objective was to find a camera built in Spain, which I accomplished by purchasing the Captain camera, which I reviewed earlier this year.

 Strolling the stalls at the flea market, I came across a very large Bakelite camera, which intrigued me. It was a Photax 1 camera made by MIOM in France. What I liked about the camera was its large size, and that came with the original fitted case. As I pulled out the camera to examine it, I noticed a very familiar twist-out style lens, and the shutter was working, which gave me confidence in my purchase. Talking to the person at Stoll about pricing for the camera, I offered a reasonably low price, which they rejected. However, they came back with a counteroffer, which I needed to consider for a while.

 As I spent more time examining different stalls and cameras. Still, my mind kept returning to the Photax 1 camera, which is the large camera with the untwisting lens. Before I left the flea market, I went back to the stall and renegotiated the price with the camera owner, coming to an agreeable price and purchasing the camera.

 This camera was one that I wanted to write about. It's an unusual-shaped camera made of Bakelite and is quite large. When I opened the back of the camera, I noticed that it was a 6 x 9 cm format, which intrigued me. Many of the cameras made by 

MIOM we're a smaller format, generally 6 x 4.5 cm.

 Let me tell you a little bit about the company.

History:

 MIOM (Manufacture d'Instruments d'Optique et de Mécanique) was a French company known for producing optical and mechanical instruments in the mid-20th century, particularly cameras. The firm operated mainly from the post-World War II era into the 1960s, a time when France was striving to rebuild its industrial base and compete in the rapidly evolving consumer goods market.

French Photax ad

 MIOM's roots were in precision engineering, and the company initially focused on optical devices before expanding into the field of photographic equipment. Its location in France allowed it to tap into a tradition of fine optical craftsmanship, drawing on expertise that had developed in Paris and other industrial centers since the 19th century.

 In the camera field, MIOM was best known for manufacturing compact and affordable models aimed at the amateur photography market. Among their most recognizable products was the MIOM Photax series—a line of simple, durable cameras using roll film. The Photax models often featured Bakelite bodies, a lightweight and inexpensive molded plastic popular in mid-century camera production. These cameras were designed for ease of use, appealing to the growing middle class and to families seeking to document their lives without investing in complex photographic gear.

 The Photax range evolved over the years, with various iterations accommodating different film formats, primarily 6×9 cm images on 120 roll film, and later 4.5×6 cm formats. Some models incorporated basic focusing and exposure controls, while others remained strictly fixed-focus, point-and-shoot devices. Though not technically advanced compared to contemporary offerings from Germany or Japan, MIOM's cameras were reliable, affordable, and accessible, helping to democratize photography in France.

 MIOM also ventured into specialized cameras, including stereo models, reflecting the brief postwar enthusiasm for 3D photography. Their designs maintained the company's hallmark of straightforward construction and modest pricing.

By the late 1960s, increasing competition from Japanese manufacturers, whose products offered superior optics and more advanced features at competitive prices, had eroded MIOM's market position. The brand gradually faded, and production ceased as the company either closed or shifted away from photographic equipment.

 Today, MIOM's cameras—especially the early Bakelite Photax models—are collected for their retro aesthetic and as examples of France's postwar consumer design. While they may never have rivaled the technical prowess of major brands, MIOM's work remains an essential chapter in the history of accessible, everyday photography.

 Below is a timeline outlining the evolution of MIOM's Photax camera series.

 1937 – Photax I- MIOM launches its photographic division with several models, including the original Photax (also branded as Camera 77, Loisirs), all of which use 120 film for 6×9 cm images. The Photax I is recognizable by its centrally positioned shutter button and Guillotine shutter, which offers two speeds. 

1938 – Photax II (and Blindé variant)- Introduced in 1938, the Photax II adopts the Boyer Serie VIII meniscus lens and maintains the simple two-speed shutter design. A "blindé" version appears—with a protective Bakelite lens cover that also shields the shutter release. 

1947 – Photax III- Following World War II, MIOM debuts the Photax III, featuring a threaded shutter release and leveraging the same Boyer Serie VIII lens. It introduces additional shutter settings (1/25 sec, 1/100 sec, and T) and continues to use the 620 film format. 

1951 – Photax IV (and IV F)- The Photax IV arrives with a Boyer Rexar meniscus lens and identical shutter options as the III, with enhanced flash synchronization. The IV F variant includes flash sync capabilities via a RIM shutter. 

1955 – Photax V- A stylish redesign marks the launch of Photax V in 1955. It features a modernized Bakelite aesthetic, bi-format capability (6×9 and 6×6 cm), and upgrades to an Angénieux Heanar Type V lens with full flash sync via RIM shutter 

1960–1962 – Photax VI -The final model in the Photax lineage, produced between 1960 and 1962, transitions from Bakelite to molded plastic, featuring a sleek, streamlined design. It's a square-format 6×6 medium-format camera that utilizes an Angénieux Heanar Type VI lens and RIM shutter with flash synchronization.

 

My Camera:

 My camera is 6 1/2 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches tall by 4 inches deep when the lens is unscrewed. In its closed position, the lens is 3 1/4 inches long. Without the case, my camera weighs 1 pound, 2.7 ounces.  The lens on the camera is a Boyer, Series VII lens.

The Photax 1 was produced for approximately one to two years, from 1939 to 1940. The Photax 1 camera uses 120 film, a departure from MIOM's earlier cameras, which used 127 film. As I mentioned earlier, this is a 6 x 9 cm format camera. The Photax 1 was sold with a film mask that allowed the photographer to shoot in the 6 x 4.5 cm format. Unfortunately, when I purchased this camera, the mask was missing, so my camera is only compatible with the 6 x 9 format.

 To extend the lines, there is a chrome ring around the lens with a knob at its top. Twist the ring clockwise, and the lens, which is on a helical screw, unscrews and moves into the taking position. The camera's controls are fundamental. There are only two shutter settings. One is "INST", which is for normal snapshots, and "POSE", which is for time exposures. These are changed by a little switch between the two settings. To control the aperture. There is a similar switch beneath the lens. One setting is the larger aperture, which is number one, and the second setting is for a smaller aperture.

There is no lock on the back of the camera to secure the back to the front of the camera body. To open the camera, on the right side, is a little foam plate that you pull away from the camera body, and the back of the camera comes off. To load the camera, follow a process similar to loading a 120 format or 120 film-style camera. The first thing you would do is to take the take-up spool from the right side of the camera and place it on the left side, under the film, and under the film advance knob. Place a fresh roll of film on the right-hand side and bring the leader over the shutter area. Insert the leader into the slot of the take-up spool and begin winding, ensuring the film advances smoothly. You turn the advance knob until you see "start" on the film's paper backing. At this point, put the back on the camera by just pressing it onto the camera‘s body.

At this point, wind the film advance knob until you see the number 1 in the first window, which is designated for the 6x9cm format. For the 6 x 4.5 format, you would wind until you see the number one in the number one window. After you take the picture, wind until you see the number one in the number two window. You repeat the steps through number eight, which would be the end of the roll of film. For 6 x 9 cm format images, you get eight images per roll. For 6 x 4.5 cm format, you get 16 pictures per roll of film. 

Fitted case for Photax 1 camera. Note the large plastic front cover.

 IMPORTANT: Be sure to turn the chrome ring so that your lenses are in the taking position before you start taking photographs. Failure to do this will result in your pictures being incredibly out of focus. On other MIOM cameras, if the lens is in the transport position, the shutter will not work. Unfortunately, with this camera, the shutter works when the lens is in the retracted or transporting position.

 The viewfinder on top of the camera is tiny, making it difficult to view your subject when framing your photograph. To take your photograph, the shutter release is located in the upper right-hand corner of the lens. Press the shutter button to take your picture. My camera has a cable release socket, and on the bottom of the camera, there is a tripod socket as well.

My Results:

 I cleaned the lens on the camera, loaded a fresh roll of 120 film, and took a walk around the neighborhood to see how this camera would perform.

 For 100% transparency. I broke my arm two days before I took these photographs. It was challenging to hold the camera while taking the photos, so some of the blur or out-of-focus images may have been caused by camera movement.

 Here are the results.

Conclusion:

 The images produced by the camera were disappointing. I'm not sure if the blur in the

photo was caused by my lack of holding the camera still. According to the information on the back of the camera, the minimum focus distance is approximately 1 m. Many of the photographs I took, I tried to be more than 1 m away from the subject.

 Due to the sunny situation, having only one shutter speed to work with, and using the smallest aperture, the photographs are unimpressive. At this point, I'm not sure I'll use this camera again due to the quality of the images, which I found disappointing, especially considering it's a 6x9 format camera.

 Thank you for taking the time to read about this interesting Camera from France, built in the late 1930s. 

 If you're interested in seeing other camera reviews, click the link.

 I also have a store on eBay where I sell some of the cameras reviewed, along with a host of other photo items, Cuny's Camera & Photo.

 Until next time, please be safe.

Nagel-Kodak Pupille

My Nagel-Kodak Pupille camera and case

Just after I finished last week's blog on the Ricoh Auto Half cameras, I was looking around the cameras on my shelf in my office, thinking which camera I'd write about this week. Nothing stood out to me, so I figured I'd let it rest for a day or two and think about it.

 Going to bed that evening, a camera popped into my head out of the blue. Having a thought or remembering something from earlier in the day is something that often happens to me, generally just as I lie down to go to sleep, something pops into my head, and that's just what happened.

 The thought that came into my head was that I remembered having a nice condition Nagel Pupille camera in a box a few months back, which I store with some of my better cameras. That's the camera I wanted to write about for this week's blog post.

 After I woke up, had my morning coffee, I settled into my office and opened the box of cameras to look for the Pupille camera I had. Right on top of other cameras was the case. I pulled out the case, and inside was the Pupille camera. Looking at the camera a bit closer, I say this was the Kodak version of the Pupille, which was introduced a year or so after its release.

Logo on the camera’s back

 It was just as I remembered it. The camera was in excellent condition with the lens cap. The first thing I did was test the shutter, and most of the speeds seemed accurate to my ear. Some of the slower speeds were not closing, which is somewhat accurate for a shutter almost 100 years old. The upper speeds were working fine, so I figured I'd put a roll of 127 film into the camera and take it to the county fair my wife. I were planning on going to over the weekend.

 I recall purchasing the camera approximately 15 years ago at an auction I bid on. At the time, it was a lovely addition to my collection, especially since it came with the lens cap and a nice, fitted case for the camera. 

 The Nagel-Kodak Pupille was a camera I had intended to write about a few years ago when I started my blog posts, but then forgot about it for a while. When it popped into my head last week, I'm thrilled it did. 

History:

Dr. August Nagel (1882–1943) was a pioneering German camera designer and manufacturer whose innovations profoundly shaped photographic technology in the early 20th century. Born in Pfrondorf, Germany, Nagel displayed an early interest in camera construction. In 1908, at the age of 26, he co-founded his first company, Drexler & Nagel, in Stuttgart. This company quickly evolved into Contessa-Camerawerke, and by 1910, it had produced a broad range of camera models, which were distributed globally. Nagel's innovations during World War I included specialized aerial and balloon cameras, and his achievements earned him an honorary doctorate from the University of Freiburg in 1918.

 Seeking further growth, Nagel's company merged with Nettel Kamera-werke in 1919, becoming Contessa-Nettel, which became one of Germany's most significant camera producers. In 1926, in response to market pressures and Zeiss Stiftung's interest, Contessa-Nettel was merged with other major German camera makers to form Zeiss Ikon, with Nagel as director of manufacturing. However, management frustrations and a loss of control led him to leave Zeiss Ikon in 1928, after which he established his factory, Dr. August Nagel Werke, in Stuttgart.

French ad for Nagel Pupille camera

 Nagel Werke quickly gained a reputation for producing affordable, high-quality folding plate and roll film cameras, notably the Vollenda models, introduced in 1929, and the more expensive Pupille, introduced in 1930. This success attracted Eastman Kodak, which sought to compete in the European precision camera market. In 1931, Kodak acquired Nagel Werke, making Dr. Nagel the general manager of the rebranded Kodak AG. 

 With Kodak's backing, Nagel devised the Retina 35mm camera and, critically, introduced the Kodak 135 film cartridge in 1934—a pre-rolled 35mm film format compatible with both Leica and Contax cameras. This cartridge would become the global industry standard for 35mm photography, marking Nagel's most enduring legacy.

 Under Nagel's leadership, Kodak AG's Stuttgart plant became known for its Retina cameras and innovations throughout the 1930s. Almost two million cameras were produced before World War II. Dr. August Nagel died in 1943, but his influence continued; camera production resumed post-war and flourished into the 1960s under his son, Helmut Nagel. Dr. Nagel's career typifies the innovative spirit of early photographic engineering and established many of the standards still recognized in the industry today.

My Camera:

My Kodak Pupille camera is a tiny, compact camera that measures 4" wide, by 2.5" tall with the viewfinder retracted and 3.5" with the viewfinder opened. The camera is 2" deep with the lens retracted and 2.75" deep when the lens is in the regular taking position. The camera weighs 14.5 ounces when empty, excluding film.

The camera captures a 3x4cm image on 127mm film. My Pupille camera has a Jos. Schneider & Co. Xenon 4.5 cm f/2.0 lens. The camera also had the option of Leitz Elmar 5cm F/3.5, a Schneider Xenon 5cm F/3.5, or a Cook Anastigmat 2" F/3.5 lens, all in a Fr. Deckel Compur shutter.

 On top of the camera, there is an optical finder that pops up, displaying a vertical image. If you want to photograph a horizontal subject, you'll need to turn the camera 90 degrees to photograph in landscape mode. Looking from left to right at the top of the camera, there is the film winding knob, the optical pop-up viewfinder, a removable accessory shoe for a separate rangefinder, and under the accessory shoe, the depth of field scale.

To take a photograph, you first need to slide the lens into the "taking" position. This is done by sliding the lever, located under the lens, to the left when facing the camera. Moving the bar slides the lens out from the camera body. The lens is mounted on a beautifully constructed helicoid, which becomes visible once the lever is moved and the lens is in the "taking" position. Around the shutter is a large black ring that focuses the lens. The focus range on the lens goes from approximately 30" or 2.5' to infinity. The numbers on the focusing ring are big and easy to read, and the focusing on this camera is smooth.

When you look at the back of this camera and many other cameras that take 127 size film, you'll notice the camera has two red windows on the back. This will become relevant once you read the loading and winding procedure for this style of camera, which will be explained over the following few paragraphs.

 To load film into the camera, first you need to unlock the body of the camera from the film chamber. You do this on the bottom of the camera by sliding the lever to the "O" position. You'll see a small line on the tripod socket that aligns the "C" (closed) setting with the "O" (open) setting. Once you have the film chamber unlocked, the top portion of the camera slides out of the camera body, exposing the area where the film is loaded into the camera.

 Take the empty spool from the right side by sliding the spool down. The holding mechanism is on a spring, and the spool will come out. Place the empty spool on the left side and ensure it's engaged in the take-up winding knob. Place the fresh roll of film on the right side and tear the tape so that you can bring the film leader over to the take-up spool, ensuring it is positioned over the rollers on either side of the opening where the film is exposed. Insert the film tab into the slot on the take-up spool and wind the winding knob until the word "start" appears on the paper backing. Once you see the word "start", slide the film chamber back into the camera body, ensuring it's fully inserted. Then, slide the lever at the bottom from "O" to "C" for closed.

 Now, look at the back of the camera and start winding the film winding knob in a clockwise direction until you see arrows in the window. This is the indication that you're approaching your first frame, so you should start to slow down on winding the camera. Stop winding when you see the number 1 in the right side window. This is the indication you're at your first image. Once you've taken the first frame, wind the film advance lever until you see the number 1 in the window on the left, and stop. This is the indication you're at your second image. Once that frame is taken, then wind until you see the number 2 in the right window. You follow these steps until you see the number 8 on the left side window, which means you've taken sixteen images on the roll of film. This operation is standard for 127 size film, which takes 3x4cm size negatives on a camera with two windows on the back.

 The standard operating sequence when using this camera is to have the separate rangefinder, which is slid onto the accessory shoe when the camera is in use. 

 

  1. Meter for your subject with a separate light meter.

  2. Look through the rangefinder and focus on your subject.

  3. Find the distance to your subject and focus the lens to that distance on the camera.

  4. Set the shutter speed and aperture setting on the lens. Shutter speed is located at the top, and aperture is positioned under the lens.

  5. Cock the shutter lever on top of the lens at the 11 o'clock position.

  6. Trip the shutter, which is below at the 7 o'clock position on the lens.

Retracting the lens back into the camera body is a little tricky and something I had to figure out, as I had done it wrong once. The first thing you need to do is focus the lens to infinity. Then, slide the bar at the bottom of the camera from left to right, and the lens retracts into the camera's body. If you don't focus the lens to infinity, the bar won't fit into a small cutout on the focusing ring. The bar will protrude from the bottom of the camera, rather than being tucked away neatly as it should be. Once the bar is back in the camera, you can remove the rangefinder, put the lens cap on, and tuck the camera away in its case, if you have one.

 

Something I've seen for the camera is an accessory reflex finder, which was made by Kodak, that turned the Pupille into a TLR camera. 

Results:

My wife and I attended our local county fair, where I loaded a roll of 400-speed 127 film into the Pupille and brought it with me to take some photos. I don't have the rangefinder for the camera, so all of the focusing I did was purely by guesstimation.

 Bringing my trusty Sekonic L-308 meter for accurate exposures, we walked around the fair looking for nice images to take.

 Once I got home, I processed the film, and here are some of the results taken at the fair. I generally only do light spotting on the images, so please excuse the excess dust on them.

 

I posted a video review of this camera. Just click on the image. I’m new to videos, so any constructive feedback is appreciated.

Conclusion:

One of the first things I noticed when using the Pupille was how sturdy the camera felt. It's small and compact, fitting into my pocket, especially when the lens is retracted.

 The camera was easy to use, and the shutter worked well. There were a few frames when I didn't focus properly, but for the most part, the camera did a good job, and it was great fun to shoot with. 

 Thank you for taking a few minutes to read about this almost 100-year-old camera that still works fabulously.

 Here's a link to some of the other camera reviews.

 Visit Cuny's Camera and Photo for some of the items seen on my blog, along with other interesting photo items I have for sale.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Ricoh Auto Half Camera

My Ricoh Auto Half E2 camera

The 1960s were a tumultuous time—a wild era—for politics, art, social change, music, and design. Having spent my early and informative years during this time, I was witness to some remarkable events that shaped the world, which I'm happy to say I lived through.

 There were the Beatles, who upended the music world; marches and protests against the war in Vietnam and civil rights; and Jackson Pollock and Andy Warhol, who were taking the art world by storm. It seemed like every month, there were issues and events in the news that shaped the world.

 In the photographic and camera design fields, in my opinion, one of the more artistic and interesting products to emerge from the 1960s was the Ricoh Auto-Half camera—a straightforward camera that underwent several model changes, keeping the design fresh for almost 20 years.

 The Ricoh Auto Half camera was introduced in December 1960. For the period, the camera was very compact and lightweight, a half-frame 35mm camera with automatic exposure, no manual focusing, and automatic winding. The size of the camera was compared to a pack of cigarettes.

 Not only were there several different model changes and improvements, but the design style, to me, was the item that kept the camera fresh. The original Ricoh Auto Half camera was available in a bright silver color and featured a wrist strap. However, later in the 1960s and well into the 1970s, the camera took on many different colors and geometric designs, which were very popular during this timeframe.

My three Ricoh Auto Half cameras

 Some of the cameras were black with a white geometric pattern on the front, like one of the models I have. Later in the production cycle of the cameras, the production became bolder and more intricate, which kept pace with the signs of the times.

 There was a yellowish-green checkerboard pattern, or some cameras had brown vertical stripes or a wavy pattern, while others had outlandish red and blue colors that appeared to create a dome pattern on the front of the camera. One of the models I saw was named "King Gold," which is a gold color camera with an interesting pattern on the front. Some have a filigree around the border, or a train or race car on the front. All of these models are just fascinating to me, and one of the main reasons I wanted to write about them.

 I own three different models of the Auto Half cameras. I have an Auto Half E model with a diamond pattern and a Formula 1 race car on the front. I have a Black Auto Half SE model with a swirly pattern on the front, and the camera I used for the post was an Auto Half E2 in superb working condition.

I own three different models of the Auto Half cameras. I have an Auto Half E model with a diamond pattern and a Formula 1 race car on the front. I have a Black Auto Half SE model with a swirly pattern on the front, and the camera I used for the post was an Auto Half E2 in superb working condition.

History:

Ricoh's journey into the world of photography began not with cameras, but with sensitized paper. Established in 1936 as Riken Kankoshi Co., Ltd., the company quickly leveraged its expertise in optics, venturing into camera production just a year later in 1937. This early period laid the groundwork for a legacy of innovation and accessibility in the photographic industry. The company, which would be renamed Riken Optical Co., Ltd. in 1938, introduced its first camera, the Olympic Four, in 1939. This simple folding camera marked its entry into a competitive market.

Japanese ad for Ricoh Auto Half camera

 The post-war era proved to be a transformative period for Ricoh. A pivotal moment arrived in 1950 with the launch of the Ricohflex Model III. This twin-lens reflex (TLR) camera was a game-changer. By implementing a revolutionary belt-conveyor system for mass production—a first in Japan's camera industry—Ricoh was able to produce the Ricohflex III at a remarkably affordable price. This move single-handedly democratized photography for the Japanese public, transforming cameras from a luxury item into an accessible consumer good. The Ricohflex III became a massive commercial success, reportedly capturing over half of the domestic market share at its peak and cementing Ricoh's reputation.

 Building on this momentum, Ricoh continued to innovate throughout the 1950s and early 1960s. The company introduced the Ricoh 500 in 1957, a popular 35mm camera notable for its user-friendly features. However, it was the Ricoh Auto Half in 1962 that truly showcased the company's forward-thinking design philosophy. This remarkably compact and lightweight half-frame camera was fully automatic, with automated exposure, focusing, and film winding. Its purse-sized dimensions and ease of use made it a massive hit, particularly with female consumers, and it became a global success.

 These formative years were crucial in shaping Ricoh's identity. From the mass-produced Ricohflex that brought photography to the masses to the stylishly simple Auto Half, Ricoh's early history is a story of creating high-quality, innovative cameras that were not only technologically proficient but also thoughtfully designed for everyday users. This foundation of accessibility and user-centric innovation would continue to define the company for decades to come.

My Camera:

My Auto Half E2 model camera is 3.5: wide, by 3" tall, by 1.5" deep, and weighs 11.9 ounces. The camera is a 35mm half-frame camera that takes a vertical image of  24x17cm on 35mm film. The camera features a fixed focus 25mm F/2.8 lens, which is typical for half-frame cameras.

The Auto Half camera incorporates a selenium cell metering system, which on many of these cameras isn't working due to the age of the selenium cell. It can no longer meter the light, but fortunately, I have one in excellent working condition. The selenium cell is located around the lens. The aperture has a range from F/2.8 to F/22. 

 The ASA (ISO) range for the film speed on the Auto Half camera goes from 25 to 400. The ASA is set on a dial located on the top of the camera.  The other setting on the dial is for "A" or automatic aperture. There are aperture settings on the dial, but these are for flash settings.

The metering is done automatically and sets the aperture to achieve the proper lighting for the subject you're pointing the camera at. When in the "A" or automatic mode, the camera sets the shutter speed to 1/125th and sets the aperture. When you use a flash, the shutter is set to 1/30th of a second, and then you manually set the aperture depending on the distance to your subject.

 According to the Auto Half manual, the only indication that the camera's lighting will be set automatically is a yellow dot appearing in the center of the viewfinder. If the yellow dot doesn't appear, then the camera will not set the proper aperture, and the image will be either too light or too dark. 

To load film into the camera, there is a lever on the side of the camera that slides down to open the back of the camera. Once open, load the camera as you would any 35mm camera, putting the film cartridge on the right side and slipping the leader under one of the silver tabs on the left. Close the back of the camera, and wind the clock drive winding lever located at the bottom of the camera in a clockwise direction. Continue winding until you can no longer wind. Click the shutter a couple of times to get to your first exposure. You're all set to take photos. The winding motor will last approximately 25 frames before it needs to be wound again.

 The frame counter is right next to the rewind lever. To rewind the film into the cartridge. The rewind release button is in the middle of the winding motor. Press the rewind button, and rewind the film into the 35mm cassette. Once that's done, you can open the back of the camera, remove the film, and have it processed.

My Results:

I loaded the camera with a roll of film and took it with me for a walk around the block with our 15-year-old Pug, Ernie. These walks are getting a bit slower every week, so I had time to snap photos of some of the houses in the neighborhood, as well as many of the flowers in people's yards.

 I wanted to push the limits of the camera and see just how close I could get to capturing a reasonably sharp image. It appears that the minimum focus distance is right around 3-4 feet, even with 200 ISO film in the camera and on a very bright summer day, around noon.

 Here are some of the images I took.

Conclusion:

I think I'm more impressed with this camera than the Canon Demi I did a couple of weeks ago. There was a bright yellow dot in the center of the viewfinder, so I trusted the meter's exposure, which was pretty accurate.

 The focus was pushed, and I received a few blurry images, which I had anticipated, but overall, the camera did a fantastic job. The transport worked flawlessly, the exposures were accurate, the camera fit nicely into my pocket, and all I needed to do was put the camera to my eye, frame the photo, and press the shutter button…Fantastic!!!!

 I'll be using this more often, since it's a small, compact, lightweight, and accurate meter. A real treasure to have in my collection. Now all I need to do is find other models and designs. I think this may be the start of something fun.

 Thank you for taking the time to read about this compact bundle of photographic bliss—a real underappreciated camera from the 1960s.

 If you're interested, you can read more of my camera reviews by clicking on the link.

 I have a store on eBay where I sell some of the cameras featured in my camera reviews, as well as a variety of photo odds and ends. Take a look at Cuny's Camera and Photo.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Welta Perfekta

My Welta Perfekta camera

As I've mentioned in the past, I'm always drawn to the colorful, or odd and unusual cameras. As a camera collector for over 50 years, and having spent countless hours poring over many of McKeown's price guides to cameras, there are cameras that I'm always intrigued by and would love to own. Cameras like an original daguerreotype camera, the Rectaflex Rotor, a three-lens camera, or a beautiful Compass camera made by Swiss watchmakers Le Coultre et Cie for Compass Cameras Ltd., London, England. All of these cameras are out of my league in terms of pricing, unless I win the lottery and have a few hundred dollars burning a hole in my pocket.

 To me, the most enjoyable aspect of collecting cameras is the hunt to find a rare or somewhat rare camera, lens, or other photographic item. Every once in a while in this collecting game, you come across a hidden bargain.  It could be something at the bottom of a box, or just that the person selling the item isn't fully aware of the value of items, and (to me), that is a highly satisfying feeling.

 Having had that same feeling about a year ago when I was at a garage sale in one of the neighboring towns, and I saw a Welta Perfekta camera. As I picked up the camera, it appeared to be in good condition. The shutter worked, the viewfinder seemed clean for being nearly 100 years old, and all the leather was intact. It was a nice camera, and one I'd love to have in my collection. When I asked about the price for the camera, the person selling it said it was her grandfather's. 

Odd shaped camera body

 Letting the seller know that the camera was in good condition and nice shape. I provided the seller with some information on the camera's age and a brief overview of the company. I let them know that I had collected the camera, written a weekly blog about it, and would love to have it in my collection. The seller said that, since I was a collector, it was important to them that the camera go to a good home, and they offered me the price of $50.00. I was happy to pay that price for such a nice example, and at that point, we were both pleased that the camera had a new home.

 I was familiar with the camera because I had written about the Zeca-Flex camera a while ago, and its shape had intrigued me. The Perfekta has a very similar shape to the Zeca-Flex as they are both folding Twin Lens cameras. These are twin-lens cameras with a large viewfinder that opens and closes, comparable to other twin-lens reflex cameras. The body of the camera folds into the film area, making the camera much smaller and more portable. 

History:

Since I just wrote about the history of Welta in last week's review of their Penti camera, I thought I would spend this review focusing on the history of the Reflekta camera, along with its older brother, the Superflekta camera.

 Both the Superflekta and Reflekta cameras are folding twin-lens cameras. As I previously mentioned, they are considered pocket cameras, which means they are smaller cameras intended to be easily transported in your coat pocket. They are a mix of pocket cameras introduced by Kodak in 1912 with their Vest Pocket cameras, and a Twin Lens Reflex camera introduced by Rolleiflex in 1929.

 The Perfekta camera was introduced in 1934. It's a medium-format camera that takes 6x6cm images on 120mm film. It features a large viewfinder that opens like the Rolleiflex and other Twin Lens Reflex cameras of its time. The body of the camera pops away from the film chamber, utilizing a bellows system that separates the lens from the film chamber, and forms an oddly shaped camera. There is a tripod socket and arm on the bottom of the lens area that allows the camera to stand upright on a flat surface, such as a table, if needed.

 The Perfekta could be purchased with one of three different lenses they sold. You had your choice of either a Meyer Trioplan 75mm f/3.5, Schneider Xenar, or Carl Zeiss Tessar 75mm f/3.8 lenses.

 The Superflekta was the first of this style of camera introduced by Welta in 1932. It's a larger camera that takes 6x9cm images on 120 film. The most intriguing feature of the Superflekta camera is that the film chamber rotates from a vertical position to a horizontal one for landscape-style images. This is very similar to how the Cornu Ontoflex operates. The photographer doesn't rotate the camera; instead, they rotate the film to achieve a horizontal image. 

 Rotating the film's back makes sense, as the camera features a ground-glass viewfinder to focus on the image. If you rotated the whole camera, the viewfinder would be on the side, which would affect composition. Turning the film chamber is a remarkable achievement in that camera. I can see where the Perfekta came into play as it's a bit smaller than the Superfekta. With the square format, Welta could cut down the size of the camera and make it even more "pocketable".

 The difference between the Zeca-Flex and both the Superfekta and Perfekta cameras is that the Zeca-Flex is more linear in design, and doesn't have the almost "S" shape that the Welta cameras incorporate. Only the bottom portion of the Zeca-Flex pops out to take the photo, then can be slid back into the camera's body for transport. 

 While Welta wasn't the first to introduce this style of camera, that honor goes to the Pilot 34 or Pilot Reflex camera made by Kamera-Werkstätten Guthe & Thorsch, another great camera manufacturer in Dresden. This camera was introduced in 1931 and was also a twin-lens camera with a bellows system.

 Both the Welta Superflekta and Perfekta cameras were only produced for a few years due to the complexity of their manufacturing. Another factor that contributed to the downfall of the Superfekta and Perfekta was the larger size of the viewfinder, which prevented it from folding into the camera body, thereby making the camera less compact.

My Camera:

My Welta Perfekta camera is 6.5" tall, by 4" wide including the film advance knob and frame counter, by 3.5" deep. These measurements are with the camera completely closed and in it's most compact state. When the camera is fully open, the camera measures 8.5" tall by 4" wide by  5" deep, and the camera weighs 2 lbs—2.2 oz. My camera has the Meyer Trioplan 7.5cm F/3.5 lens.

 To open the camera and pop the lens area from the film area., There is a round button on the right side of the camera, under the film advance knob, that you press. Once pressed, the body pops away from the film area, exposing the camera's bellows, along with the angled mirror area of the viewfinder system.

On the back, to the right of the viewfinder, is a small button that you slide to the left to open the light chimney of the viewfinder. The light chimney should pop up, exposing the ground glass for focusing. On the inside of the front wall of the light chimney is a magnifying glass that helps with focusing, a feature common in twin lens reflex cameras. On the left side of the chimney is a knurled knob that flips up the magnifying glass when turned, and flips down when turned in the opposite direction. 

Closing the light chimney, fold the sides in first, then the back, and finally, fold the chimney down into the camera's body. It will then lock into place.

 To focus the camera, a knob located just to the left of the lens/shutter assembly slides up and down, allowing you to adjust the focus on your subject. The lens moves in and out on a helicoid from the camera's faceplate. There is no focus distance written on the side of the camera, so you can't set the distance and shoot. All the focusing is done through the viewfinder, which I find somewhat dark and difficult to view on darker days.

 To close the body of the camera for transport, press the two buttons located on either side of the front plate. Once pressed, the body will push into the film chamber area and click into place. Just be sure to flip up the leg under the camera; otherwise, the leg keeps the camera from fully closing. I learned that when I tried to close the camera, I noticed the lever sticking out, ops!!

Taking the photo is pretty basic. The shutter speeds on my camera go from 1/300 to 1 sec. along with "B" and "T" for timed exposures and are set via a ring around the lens. The aperture ranges from F/3.5 to F/22 and is set by a slider arm located under the lens. The shutter cocking lever is located at the top of the lens, and the shutter release is positioned on the right side of the lens.

Loading the film is similar to that of many other medium-format cameras. On the back of the film door is a button that you slide to the left and pull down; the film's back will then open. I first noticed that where you put the fresh roll of film, along with the take-up spool, are hinged guards that both of these items fit into. The winding knob pulls out to make it easier to insert the empty spool into the chamber. Then, flip the small guard down to keep the spool in place. Similar to where you insert the fresh roll of film, once the film is in place, flip the guard down to keep it in position.

While the camera features a covered red window on the back, it also has a unique frame counter. On the inside of the film's door is a slotted rod that rolls on the film's paper backing, and it is equipped with a gearing system attached to a round frame counter, which tells the photographer which frame they are on. 

Here's how it works. Once you load the film, use the red window to access frame number one. On the inside of the frame counter, you slide the knurled wheel from A (Aus=Off) to E (Ein=On). Doing this sets the frame counter to number one, and after you take a photo, the ribbed wheel advances the frame counter every time you advance the film from one frame to the next.

 

Results:

I loaded the camera with an older roll of T-Max 100, the fastest 120 film I had available, and went for a walk with my sister, Laura, and her dog, Sally, taking photos along the way.

 Unfortunately, the day was overcast, and I had forgotten to bring my light meter with me, so I was forced to use a light meter app on my phone, which I dislike doing, as it always seems to get it wrong. However, it didn't fail me again, and the negatives I processed were underexposed.

 Here are some of the better ones from the walk.

Conclusion:

I must say that this camera was delightful to shoot with, and for the price paid, it was well worth every penny. The only drawback would be the darker viewfinder and difficulty I had focusing on the subject.

 I liked the size of the camera; I enjoyed how compact the camera is to use. The shutter and aperture worked well, and the odd shape of the camera was certainly a conversation piece when I talked to some of the neighbors I met along the walk to take photos. The camera is less bulky to transport and carry around than a traditional twin-lens camera, and the optics are excellent—an enjoyable camera that I plan on using regularly.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to read about this unusual, yet jewel-like, camera. 

 Click on the link for some of the other cameras reviewed.

 I also run an online eBay store, Cuny's Camera and Photo. If you're interested in older cameras and other camera oddities, I have for sale.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Welta Penti camera

My Welta Penti camera

The first time I laid my eyes on a Welta Penti camera was almost 45 years ago. I was working as a salesperson at the local camera store in our area, and someone brought in a beautiful gold-colored camera with dark red trim circling the center. I was a bit flabbergasted when I saw it. The customer had just received it from a relative and wanted to know how to use it.

 At the time, I was in my early twenties, and although I had never seen one before, I started to play with it and explained the camera as I tinkered with it. I was learning about the camera at the same time.  The easy part was explaining the items located around the lens, like shutter speed, focus distance, and aperture settings. Still, when I clicked the shutter, and the advance rod came shooting out of the camera, I think I let out a little gasp of surprise as the woman I was explaining the camera to just smiled and said, "That happened to me when I snapped the shutter, but I didn't know what I did".

 It wasn't until I took the back off the camera and noticed that when you pushed the film advancing rod in, it engaged with the film's sprocket holes and pushed the film into the take-up cannister. The rod stayed in the camera body until you snapped the shutter again. Also, with the back off the camera, I did see that the camera took 35mm film, but not the regular 35mm film that the majority of photographers were used to, but the Agfa Rapid style 35mm film. At the time, we did sell a small quantity of Agfa Rapid film. 

The brilliant gold toned Welta Penti camera with advance rod out.

 While I had the camera's back off, I double-checked that the shutter was opening and closing. The aperture was operating correctly, which it was. I explained to the owner of the camera that it was called a Half-Frame camera, meaning it used only half the size of a standard 35mm camera. She would get twice the number of photos from a roll of film. If she purchased a roll of 20 exposures, she would be getting 40, 41, or possibly 42 pictures from the roll. I sold her a roll of film, loaded it into her camera, and sent her on her way. 

 The whole time I was holding this camera, I couldn't help but think, What a beautiful camera. Keep in mind, this was around the same time as I was starting to collect cameras and the ones that impressed me the most were camera with color, like the Kodak Rainbow,  Petites and Beau Brownies camera, so a gold camera with dark red circling the camera just sort of blew my mind and I wanted to know more about them.

 Fast forward 45 years, and at a recent camera collectors fair in Seattle, I purchased two Penti cameras, both in good working condition. I had previously owned a few of the Penti cameras, but sold them off years ago so when I saw them at the camera show, I thought it would be great opportunity to add them to my collection and also to write about them in one of my camera collecting blog posts.

History:

Welta Kamerawerks, a significant yet often overlooked German camera manufacturer, has a history that mirrors the turbulent narrative of the 20th century in its Dresden-area home. Founded in 1914 as Weeka-Kamera-Werk by Walter Waurich and Theodor Weber in Freital, a suburb of Dresden, the company was renamed Welta-Kamerawerk Waurich & Co. in 1919. From its inception, Welta carved out a niche for itself by producing a wide array of high-quality, medium-priced folding plate and roll film cameras, putting it in direct competition with other German contemporaries, such as Balda and Certo.

Welta Kamera Werks

 Before World War II, Welta was known for its solid engineering and innovation. The company produced a range of popular models. Still, it was cameras like the high-end Weltur series that cemented its reputation. Introduced in 1935, the Weltur was a sophisticated folding camera featuring a coupled rangefinder. This design element positioned it in direct competition with premium brands. Welta also ventured into more ambitious designs, creating the unique folding Twin-Lens Reflex (TLR) cameras, the Perfekta (6x6) and Superfekta (6x9). Though not commercial successes, these models are now highly prized by collectors for their fascinating design and mechanical complexity. Many of their cameras were offered with high-quality lenses from renowned makers like Carl Zeiss and Schneider-Kreuznach, appealing to serious photographers.

 The aftermath of World War II dramatically altered the company's trajectory. Located in what would become East Germany, the Welta factory was dismantled and its equipment sent to the Soviet Union as part of war reparations. However, production managed to restart by 1947 under the new state-controlled entity, VEB Welta-Kamera-Werk. The company continued to produce successful pre-war designs, such as the Welti 35mm folder. It absorbed other nationalized firms, including the Richter company in 1950, which led to the development of the successful Reflekta TLR series.

 Despite its resilience, the era of consolidation in the East German photographic industry marked the end of Welta's independence. In 1959, VEB Welta was merged with several other Dresden-based camera makers, including Belca and Altissa, to form the massive conglomerate VEB Kamera- und Kinowerke Dresden, which would later become the famous Pentacon. Following this merger, the Welta name, which had defined quality German cameras for over four decades, gradually disappeared from the market, marking the end of a significant chapter in photographic history.

My dark red and turquoise Welti Penti cameras

 The Welta Penti was introduced in 1959 and produced until 1977 with a few modifications. In 1961, the Penti I and Penti II were introduced. The Penti I had a broader front viewfinder area and small knobs on the lens to control the different lens functions, like aperture and shutter speeds, and the Penti II was similar to the Penti I but incorporated a selenium cell light meter. 

 All Penti cameras are 35mm, half-frame cameras that take an 18x24mm image in a vertical format. The Penti and Penti I cameras have a Meyer-Optik Tripolan 30mm f/3.5 lens. The Penti II has a Domiplan 30mm f/3.5 lens.

 The 28mm to 30mm is considered a standard lens for the half-frame style cameras. The Welta Penti cameras came in different colors; all had a brilliant gold-toned camera body, but the band around the camera came in black, dark blue, turquoise, dark red, or white.

My Camera:

My Welta Penti is a small and compact camera, making it another fantastic option to keep in your pocket or jacket, ready to take photos. The camera measures 4.25" wide by 2.75" tall and is only 1.5" deep, weighing 8 oz. A metal lens hood and case are available for the camera, but unfortunately, my camera does not have either one.

Around the lens, and closest to the camera body, is a ring that controls the shutter speeds, which range from 1/125 to 1/30, and a square that represents timed exposures. Inside the shutter speed control is the lens's focusing ring, which focuses down to 1m. Inside the focusing ring are the lens's aperture settings, which go from F/3.5 to F/22. On the Penti camera, these are awkward to move. Now that I've shot with the camera, I understand why they added the small knobs to the updated Penti I and II model cameras. These are the only settings on the camera, except for the frame counter, which is reset to zero using a wheel located inside the camera.

To remove the back to load the film, there are two grips molded into the back of the camera that you grab and pull the back away from the camera body. The back is held in place with two spring clips that engage with the molded grips to secure it to the camera body.

 Once you have the back off the camera's body, you see the two Agfa-style film cassettes, along with a silver pressure plate that swings down when loading the film and a sliding bar that holds the take-up cassette in place. The nice thing about these film cassettes is that nothing is holding the film inside: no tape or clip is used. The film is loose inside the cassette and has just been wound onto a spool.

To load the Agfa style cassettes, insert 35mm film. Luckily for me, I just purchased a 100' roll of B&W film, which I just loaded into my bulk film loader, so I have plenty of film. Just remember, you don't need a lot of film because you're getting twice as many photos on the roll. 

 Here is the procedure I used to load the cassettes. I removed the film cassettes from the camera and, along with my bulk film loader, placed them in a dark bag. I cut off a piece of film, approximately 2-3 feet long, from my bulk loader and slid the end of the film into one of the cassettes, ensuring the film's emulsion faced down, just like any 35mm film. Once I pushed the film into the film cassette, I removed it from the dark bag and trimmed the exposed film's corners.

I placed the cassette with the film inside on the left side of the camera's body, pulled down the pressure plate, and gently slid the trimmed end of the film into the take-up spool on the right-hand side. I snapped the shutter, and the film advancing rod popped out of the camera's body. The film is transported from the film cassette to the take-up cassette by a piece of metal with two prongs that push the film into the take-up cassette when the film advancing rod is slid into the camera's body. 

 When you take the photo, the pronged metal piece disengages from the film's sprockets. It moves to the left, so when you push the rod in, the pronged piece of metal grabs the film's sprockets and pushes the film from the cassette on the left to the take-up spool on the right. At this point, flip up the pressure plate, and immediately to the left of the viewfinder is a thumb wheel that allows you to zero out the frame counter, indicating the number of photos you've taken. Pop the film back onto the camera body, ensuring it's positioned correctly, and then start taking pictures.

The problem in my circumstance was that, since I didn't know how long the film I cut was, I didn't know how many photos I'd get on the unknown length of film I cut in the dark bag. The good or not-so-good news is that, with these cassettes, you don't know when you reach the end of the roll because you're transitioning from one cassette to another. There's no rewinding the film into the cassette. When you're done with the roll, the pronged metal piece has no more film to push into the take-up cassette, and a film tail (the end of the film) protrudes from the take-up spool.

 

My Results:

Now that I had film loaded in the camera and my trusty Sekonic L-308 meter with me, I took general meter readings. I then took our dog for a walk through the neighborhood. I snapped a few photos, both vertically and by turning the camera to get a few horizontal images. Here are the results from my walk with Ernie.

Conclusion:

What a fun camera to shoot with. It's small, compact, and fits easily into my pocket. The film advance rod popped out as it should, the viewfinder framed the images well, and there were no snags on transporting the film from one cassette to the other, which is what I was most worried about when using it.

 The few minor drawbacks I have with the camera are that, with my larger hands, the settings were a bit clumsy, but not too difficult to use once I got accustomed to their location. Additionally, I was unsure of how many images I had taken on the film, so I had to insert the film cassette. Out of the approximately 2 feet of film I put in the film cassette, I received 22 good images on the negatives, two of which were partial frames.

I also seem to have a slight light leak coming from either the bottom of the camera, as there’s a consistent bright area on my photos, which I’ll need to investigate. The images also look to have an “infrared” glow to them, which I liked.

 To read about any of the other cameras reviewed, click the link.

 I also sell cameras, lenses, and other odd camera items on my eBay store, Cuny's Camera and Photo. Stop by and go shopping.

 Thank you for taking the time to read about this fantastic little camera. I'd love to hear from you, so please email me with any comments or concerns you have about any of my reviews.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Contessa Nettel Cocarette I DeLuxe

My Contessa Nettel Cocarette I DeLuxe camera

As I've mentioned in other posts, colored cameras are some of my favorite cameras to collect. That's a good thing when the camera is a different color than the standard drab black camera and a beautiful, rich brown-toned camera. When the camera is a rich brown-toned camera and is a rarer version, that makes the camera even more special to me. When the camera is a rich brown tone, a rarer version of the black model of the same camera AND, the camera is in good working condition and has a clean lens, then to me, it's, as we say in the U.S. and to use a baseball term  "a real home run."

 The Contessa Nettel Cocarette I Luxus camera was purchased from a seller in Florida five or six years ago. I purchased this camera along with a few other wonderful cameras, like the Zeiss Super Nettel, a Zeiss Tenax II, a Zeiss Nettax, and a few others, which were real gems in my collection for a long time until I sold them, which at times I look back and regret. That's all part of the collecting world.

 The camera appeared to be in great working condition. The bellows seemed to be light-tight, the aperture moved smoothly, and the camera came with an upgraded Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar lens and a Compur shutter, which, upon inspection, were in excellent condition. Also, the exterior leather was without tears and with minor scuffs, and the Cocarette I handle on the camera was still intact.

 When I received the camera, I wanted to find out more about the camera, so as I usually do, I saw if there was a manual or catalog on the camera. My go-to website for camera manuals is www.butkus.org , which has an extensive collection of manuals. They did have the Zeiss Cocarette manual,

According to the manual, Contessa Nettel made three different Cocarette models, each with four cameras of various sizes.

 The three  Cocarette models are:

Special: Called I/0, II/0, III/0, and IV/O, covered in black leatherette and with hinged metal front.

Standard: Described as Cocarette I, II, III, IV, With real black leather coverings, leather bellows, and hinged "Stirrup" front.

DeLuxe: Styled respectively "de Luxe" I, "de Luxe" II, "de Luxe" III, and "de Luxe" IV. This type is covered in the finest brown Morocco leather and has bellows of the same. ​ All the edges are bound in German silver.

 The different negative sizes of the models described above are as follows:

l/0, I and "de Luxe" I . Film 3 1/4 x 2 1/4 inches

II/0, II and "de Luxe" II . Film 4 1/4 x 2 1/2 inches

III/0, III and 'ode Luxe" III . Film 4 1/4 x 3 1/4 inches

IV/O, IV, and "de Luxe" IV. Film  5 1/2 x 3 1/4 inches

History

Contessa-Nettel AG was a prominent German camera manufacturer based in Stuttgart. It was formed in 1919 by merging two influential companies: Contessa Camerawerke Drexler & Nagel and Nettel Camerawerk. This merger combined the innovative strengths of both firms—Contessa Camerawerke, founded by Dr. August Nagel, and Nettel Camerawerk, known for its advanced strut folding cameras and focal plane shutters. Dr. Nagel, who began his camera design business 1908 as Drexler & Nagel, quickly rebranded it as Contessa Camerawerke before acquiring Nettel in 1919 and establishing Contessa-Nettel AG.

Ad showing the different negative sizes.

 Contessa-Nettel became renowned for its diverse and technically advanced range of cameras. The company offered approximately forty different models, including many variations of the Cocarette, a folding camera that became one of its most famous products during the 1920s. Other notable models included the Deckrullo-Nettel series, which featured self-capping focal plane shutters—a significant innovation. The company also specialized in stereo cameras and produced various compact and portable designs, such as the Piccolette and the Stereax.

 The Deckrullo-Nettel cameras, initially developed by Nettel, continued to be produced under the Contessa-Nettel name after the merger. These cameras were admired for their engineering, particularly their strut folding mechanisms and reliable shutters. Contessa-Nettel's products were recognized for their build quality and design excellence, reflecting Dr. Nagel's eye for detail.

 In 1926, Contessa-Nettel became part of Zeiss Ikon, a new conglomerate formed by merging several major German camera manufacturers, including ICA, Ernemann, and Goerz, alongside Contessa-Nettel. This consolidation aimed to strengthen the German photographic industry and create a powerhouse capable of competing internationally. After the merger, many Contessa-Nettel designs and models continued under the Zeiss Ikon brand, and the Stuttgart factory became a critical Zeiss Ikon site.

 Although Contessa-Nettel, as an independent brand, ceased to exist after 1926, its influence persisted. Feeling out of place at Zeiss Ikon, Dr. August Nagel left to establish the Nagel-Werke factory, which Kodak later acquired. Nagel's subsequent innovations, such as the Kodak Retina and the first pre-loaded 35mm film cassette, trace their lineage to the design philosophy he honed at Contessa-Nettel. The Contessa-Nettel name also lived on in Zeiss Ikon's product lines, most notably in the Zeiss-Ikon Contessa cameras of the postwar era.

 Contessa-Nettel's history is marked by technical innovation, quality craftsmanship, and a legacy that shaped the evolution of camera technology in the 20th century.

My Camera:

My Contessa Nettel Cocarette I Deluxe camera is 6 5/8" long by 3.5" wide, 1.5" deep when closed, and 5.5" deep when opened, with the lens extended from the body. It weighs 1 Lb. 6 oz. My camera's serial number is 422872. It also has a Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 10.5cm f4.5 lens, serial #588166.

 To open the camera, there is a button on the side of the camera, which is similar to another folding camera, which you press, and the front door opens, exposing the front of the camera. Just below the shutter is the company name, Contessa Nettel, and on either side of the name are two knobs which you grab and pull the front standard of the camera out from the camera body until they stop. You're now ready to take a photo if you have film loaded into the camera

Pulling the front standard from the camera body lets you see the controls on the camera much better. Looking down at the camera, you have a bright waist-level viewfinder with indents on each corner representing a vertical or horizontal format for framing your photo. Currently, the camera is in the vertical position or, in modern terms, in portrait mode. The viewfinder can also tilt to the side if you plan on using the camera in the horizontal position to photograph in landscape mode. Right next to the viewfinder is a red bubble level to ensure the camera is level for straight photos and does not have crooked horizon lines.

On the camera's bed, just to the right of the shutter, is a focus lever, which allows the photographer to get closer to their subject and take clear photos. The focus lever can go from 2 meters to infinity, with a few different distances in between.

 When you look at the front of the camera and focus on what is on the Compur shutter, on the right side is the shutter release lever, and on the left side is a dial with Z, D, and M. These are used for different shutter functions. Z opens the shutter when you release the shutter lever and closes when you pull the shutter release again. D opens the shutter when you pull down on the shutter release and closes when you release it, and M is for the more normal use of the shutter speeds built into the shutter. The shutter speed ranges from 1 second to 1/250. All the shutter speeds on the camera seem reasonable, even the 1 sec, which is fantastic for a 100-year-old camera.

A small lever is on the bottom of the shutter. Sliding the lever from one side to the other changes the aperture setting, which you can see on top of the shutter. The camera's operations are very easy to see while holding it. You can view the shutter speed, the aperture settings, the focus distance, the viewfinder, and the bubble level, all while composing the photo in the vertical or portrait position.

 On the right side, as you're holding the camera, is a chrome knob on top of the lens standard. This slightly raises the camera lens, which will correct for vertical distortion. It doesn't do much, but it gives you a little movement in several of the better-quality folding cameras from this era.

For horizontal photos, you can swing a wire finder around the lens. On the back of the camera, a small eye finder slides out to create an action or sports finder from the two pieces. Using the camera in this position is a bit more clumsy due to where the shutter release is positioned.

Eyepiece on back up, and wire frame in place for action photo.

Fortunately, the Cocarette I cameras can use the popular 120-size film. The film chamber slides out from the camera body to load the film. On the left side of the body is a lever that you slide to unlock the film chamber from the body. Once the film chamber is unlocked, it can slide up to reveal the take-up spool and the film area. To put the film in the film area, there are holders that you flip up to get the take-up spool and the film into the respective areas.

 When loading the film, slide the paper packing under the thin channel to keep it flat across the opening. Another oddity of this camera is a large cut-away on the top of one of the corners of the exposure areas. I don't understand why this is there, as it did produce the cutout on the negative. If you know why that is there, I'd love to know. It may have had something to do with the older films of that time.

Once the film is loaded into the film back of the camera, slide it back into the camera and lock the back onto the camera body to prevent it from getting exposed to light. A small square red window with a cover is on the back of the camera. Winding the film with the take-up spool will take you to the number 1 photo, and now you're ready to make your first photo.

 

My Results:

I loaded the camera with a roll of Rollei RX100 film and walked through the neighborhood with my trust Sekonic L-308 meter. The day was somewhat overcast, so the contrast in the images wasn't the best. I also used the focus control on the camera. Since the day was cloudy, the settings on many of the photos were a shutter speed of 1/100 and aperture settings of f/4.5, which means there's not a lot of play when it comes to depth of field, and the photos show that.

 Here are the results I got from the Contessa Nettel Cocarette I Deluxe.

Conclusion:

The camera is straightforward to use, which I’m used to because I often use folding cameras. The controls were straightforward to define and comfortable to hold for composition purposes. However, the results I received weren't the best when I used the focus control on the camera. It's very possible my distances were off, and having to use a shallow depth of field didn't help.

 It wasn't bad, but my expectations were too high. Getting a 6x9 format negative with a Zeiss lens, I was hoping for better results. That shows I'll need to take this camera out and try again.

 Thank you for taking the time to read about this beautiful and very functional camera. It certainly looks terrific in my collection, and I enjoy having it.

 Click on the link if you're interested in reading some of the other camera reviews. 

 If you are interested in some of the cameras and other camera oddities I have for sale, I have a store on eBay called Cuny's Camera.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Riley Rilex camera

My Riley Rilex camera

The first time I saw the Riley Rilex camera was at a camera show in Seattle, WA, about six months ago. I was selling cameras and other photo items at the show. A friend who had driven up from the same area I live in and know well approached me looking to sell the Riley Rilex camera.

 He handed me the camera, and my first impression was that it was an odd and unusual-looking press-style camera. It was a full-sized 4x5 press camera, but It's a more miniature 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 press-style camera. There's a large handle on one side, making it very easy to handle and carry, but what caught my eye was the bright aluminum camera body and how light and compact the camera was. A rangefinder was attached to the side of the camera, and the focusing method seemed sketchy and rudimentary but was in working condition. 

 Playing with the camera, the shutter worked well, the aperture moved as it should, the bellows were intact and seemed in excellent condition, and the focus was smooth. When my friend told me the asking price, I told him I didn't do much with this style of camera and handed it back to him, but then he lowered his price, and my thought was, this seems to be an odd and unusual camera, it would be fun to write about it. I had never heard of a Riley Rilex camera, so it would be fun to research it. I thought I had some holder back home, so I pulled the trigger and purchased the camera from him with the intent to write this article about it.

Nameplate on my Riley Rilex camera

 I've owned several Graflex Baby Graphic cameras, so I'm not unaware of the smaller press cameras made during the 1940s and early 1950s. The Baby Graphic cameras are fully enclosed within the camera body, which is covered in black leatherette. Here is the Riley Rilex camera, which is almost the direct opposite. It is bright and shiny, made from lightweight aluminum, and without a boxy case, the lens and bellows fit into. What an odd and wonderful-looking camera.

The Company:

Several camera companies opened up in Southern California just after World War II. Companies like Printex, which manufactured a 4x5 Press camera in Pasadena, CA; Newton Photo Products in Los Angeles, CA, which made a lightweight view camera; and Brand Camera Company, also of Los Angeles, also made a rail-style view camera. All of these companies opened right after World War II, between 1947 and 1947, giving returning soldiers employment and hoping to build onto the growing photographic industry of the time.

 Curtis Riley was a tinkerer, amateur inventor, and aircraft engineer at Lockheed in Los Angeles, CA, during the 1940s. A photographer friend, frustrated by the weight of press cameras during this time, mentioned to Curtis that the cameras were rugged to carry around. Curtis, at the time, was working with lightweight aluminum for the aircraft industry, so he took up the idea of coming up with a lighter-weight camera for the industry.

Ad for Rilex camera

This was the start of the husband and wife-owned company, Riley Research Company, located at 128 Berkeley Street, Santa Monica, CA. Curtis came up with the design of the Riley Rilex camera, and they started to produce the aluminum body camera. It's unknown how many employees they had or if they did most of the manufacturing themselves. The design is relatively simple, and once the camera pieces were machined, putting them together wouldn't be difficult. It was confirmed that Gay, Curtis's wife, would fold the bellows at the kitchen table, and from what I understand, it wasn't her favorite job.

It's estimated that The Reily Research Company produced around 800 cameras over three years, during which the company was in business. The cameras had the option of a Wollensak Raptar lens in an Alphax shutter. If you wanted the Rapax shutter with speeds up to 1/400 sec., that was an additional $12.00.

 Advertising of the camera started in the fall of 1948 with ads in Popular Photography and local camera stores. The Riley Rilex camera was advertised for $49.50, including a tax-free lens. The rangefinder was "optional Equipment." In the advertisement listing the included Lens and Rangefinder, the camera is listed at $99.80, with a savings of $35.24.

 Unfortunately, the Riley Rilex was only advertised for three years, from 1948 to 1951. Due to the success of this small camera company in filling a requested need, other larger manufacturers began building a similar style of camera. After 1951, Curtis and Gay moved on to other endeavors, and the Riley Rilex camera became a desired collectible camera. 

The Camera:

My Riley Rilex camera measures 7" wide, including the metal handle, by 6" tall, including the eyesight knob, which doubles as a tightening screw on the back of the camera by the rotating back, by 6.5" with the bellows extended or 5.25" with the lens and bellows retracted. My Riley Rilex camera weighs 2 lb. 14.6oz and includes a 101mm f4.5 Wollensak Raptar lens in a Rapax shutter. My camera was an upgrade to the information above. I also have the Model B camera with the serial number 617 

 The Riley Rilex camera was made in three models: A, AB, and B. The first model, the "A," was short-lived, as the recommendation of adding a rangefinder to the side of the camera was made. The first production run was halted to add a rangefinder and the focusing rod to the camera's right side. I've seen some examples of the Rilex camera with a Kalart or Hugo Meyer rangefinder. One of the other modifications was having a rangefinder that supported an external flash.

To use the external rangefinder on the Rilex camera, a focusing rod comes out of the top of the rangefinder and leans up against an aluminum block attached to the focusing rack and pinion rod for focusing capabilities. When you used the rack and pinion focusing on the camera, the focus rod would move, thus focusing on the rangefinder.

 You can also use the traditional ground glass on the back of the camera, which flips down or up depending on the orientation of the camera's back. The back of the camera is highly polished chrome, which adds to its look.

To change the orientation of the cameras back from horizontal to vertical, the eyesight, which can be used with the wire built into the front frame, can be used as an action finder, which can be turned to lock or unlock the back rotation. There is a small line just behind the eyesight knob to show the camera's back is level with the camera.

 The camera offers full swings, tilts, rises (no falls), and horizontal shifts from the front brace of the camera. Like the back, there are centering marks on the front to quickly return the camera to a level and even settings on the camera. One thing on my camera that I'm sure some have already noticed is that I'm missing one of the knurled nuts that hold the 2 3/8"  lens board onto the camera body. That wouldn't affect the clarity or ability to use the camera. It's more of a visual appearance flaw than anything.

Unfortunately, I don't have the film holder for this size of the film, and the back of the camera cannot be easily removed to use a roll film adapter, so I could not use the camera, which would have been fun to try.

 

Conclusion:

I've had the absolute pleasure of continuing correspondence with Curtis and Gay's granddaughter, Barbara. She has helped me with this article by providing fabulous family photos and advertising for the family company. I want to thank her for all the insight she's offered me, which is tremendously appreciated.

 The camera itself is marvelous. It's small, compact, and visually appealing. The bellows are made from a stronger material than most view or press cameras, and it's terrific to think they were all hand-folded.

 I need to find a small film holder to try out this camera. I know I've had them, but I must have sold them with other cameras or just separately. Once I actually use the camera, I'll be sure to update this post with some images it produces.

 Thank you for reading about this unique family-owned camera company from Los Angeles that filled a niche product people were asking for at the time.

 Are you interested in reading my other camera reviews?

 I also have a store on eBay, Cuny's Camera, which has some odd and unusual products, including cameras and lenses.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Futura-S Camera

My Futura-S camera.

As a camera collector for over 50 years, I was unaware of the Futura cameras for almost 45 years. It wasn't until a friend and fellow collector mentioned the Futura camera that it stuck in the back of my mind, as I haven't come across one in all these years of collecting.

 After hearing about the Futura cameras, I did some research and had many questions: How well were they built? How many lenses were available? How many different models did they offer? What lens mount did the camera offer? So I pulled out my trusty camera bible, McKeown's camera guide, and started to learn about the little-known (to me) brand of Futura cameras.

Futura Logo on the camera

Having purchased my Futura-S camera in a "lot" of cameras purchased, and it wasn't until I received the box of cameras that I noticed one of the cameras was the Futura-S. The only thing in the photo of the camera "lot" was the back of the brown case. The top of the case was missing, so I figured it was some random or very common camera that I've owned in the past, but when I took the camera out of the case, the Futura was in surprisingly good condition and seemed to be working, too.

 Picking up the camera, I set the shutter speeds to higher speeds to see if the shutter fired, and it did. The transport moved and cocked the shutter. The lens looked clean, and then I tried some of the slower speeds on the camera. That's where I ran into some difficulty. The slower speeds locked up the shutter, and it wasn't until I reset the shutter speeds to a higher speed that the shutter closed, and I was able to cock the shutter again.

 One of my first thoughts was I wanted to run some film through the camera to see how it handled it. Then, I felt compelled to write about my experience with the camera and how it was handled, knowing I couldn't use any shutter speed lower than 1/50 in my testing experience.

History:

Fritz Kuhnert founded Optische Anstalt in Freiburg, Germany in 1942. The company initially manufactured optical equipment for the German military during World War II. The factory was bombed and destroyed during the war. In 1946, Fritz rebuilt the company in Gundelfingen, a nearby town, and concentrated his efforts on producing consumer cameras due to the growing photography market.

 1947, the company introduced its first camera at Photokina, the Efka 24. It was a simple scale-focus camera that used 35mm film to produce 24x24mm images. The name "Efka" was derived from the phonetic spelling of Kuhnert's initials, "FK." In 1950, the company introduced the Futura, a more advanced 35mm rangefinder camera with interchangeable lenses and a proprietary screw mount. The lenses were named after Kuhnert's family members: Elor (his wife Elenore), Evar (his daughter Eva), and Petar (his son Peter). 

 In 1951, due to financial difficulties, Kuhnert sold the company Hamburg ship-line owners Ernst and Eduard Komorowski, who renamed it Futura Kamerawerk GmbH. Under their ownership, the company produced four different 35mm rangefinder cameras, including the Futura S, which was introduced in 1952. This model featured a Synchro-Compur shutter and maintained its predecessor's distinctive design and lens mount. They also produced two of the fastest standard 50mm and portrait 70mm lenses of the time with a maximum aperture of F1.5, named Futura Frilon.

 Futura Kamerawerk struggled to compete with established German brands like Leica and the emerging Japanese camera industry despite producing high-quality cameras. The company ceased operations in 1957 and closed the factory in 1958. Today, Futura cameras are valued by collectors for their unique design and historical significance.

My Camera:

My Futura-S is 5" wide by 3" tall by 2.5" deep with my Futura Elor 50mm f2.8 lens. Without the fitted leather case, my camera weighs 1 lb. 9.4 oz. The Futura-S is a very well-made camera but a bit heavy due to its solid cast metal body. I prefer heavier cameras because they fit my hands better. Cameras like the Nikon F body, the Robot Royal, and now the Futura cameras feel comfortable.

The "S" in the Futura line stands for Syncro-Compur, or the shutter system used on this camera. All of the exposure controls are located around or on the lens. The shutter speed dial is located on the outside of the lens area and is moved by two knobs on opposite ends of the dial. The shutter speeds go from 1/500 to 1 sec. along with "B". Also, on the bottom of the shutter speed ring is "Futura Freiburg."

 The focus is controlled by the ring just inside the shutter speed control. This ring has a larger knob sticking out to change the focus as needed to create a sharp focus. The aperture ring is on the lens barrel itself. The aperture range is f/2.8 to f/22. There is an even larger knob located on the outside of the shutter speed ring, which sets the flash sync for "X," electronic flash, or "M," bulb flash.

To remove the lens, you unthread it from the body. The lens has a proprietary thread mount of 33.8mm, so it's not your usual Leica or Pentax thread mount system. I must say, the lens has a very fluid and lean look to it. On the back of the camera is the rangefinder viewing eyepiece. The rangefinder on my camera is exceptionally bright and accurate. We'll see when I test the camera with film in it.

On top of the camera going from left to right, is the rewind knob, which has an arrow on top to show the direction to turn to rewind the film into the cassette. Next is a cold shoe used for a mounted meter or flash attachment.  Behind the cold shoe is a pointer switch, which you can point to either  SW, 'Schwartz/Weiss' (Black & White); C, 'Color'; CN, 'Color Negative.', which is a reminder to the photographer to the film in the camera. Thank you, David Babsky and Mike Eckman, for this information. 

 Next to the cold shoe is a lever which on my camera is a non working on my camera self-timer. Above that and slightly to the right is an additive frame counter. Twist the dial to "0" when you load the film, and the frame counter increases. Just below the frame counter is the cable release threaded shutter release. An interesting item about the shutter release is you can "lock" it down for longer exposures by turning it to the right after depressing it, which locks it in the open position until you turn it to the left to release it. 

Having the locking shutter release is good if you don't have a cable release, but the bad thing is you're still moving the camera a bit during exposure, which might create blur in the image. On the far right is the film advance knob. This turns counterclockwise to advance the film.

 Four nubs on the bottom of the camera lift it and give it stability when placed on a flat surface. Also, there are two knurled buttons, one on the left, to release the drive gear and allow the film to be rewound into the film cassette. The larger one in the center of the camera opens the back of the camera to load film. Slide the larger button toward the arrow pointing to "O," and the back will come off by pulling it down.

Once the back is off the camera, the take-up spool comes out for more effortless film loading. The camera's serial number is imprinted on the metal plate under the frame window. My serial number is S11244. When you put the back onto the camera and slide it up, it automatically locks onto the camera.

 My Results:

Now that I have put a roll of T-Max 400, 24-exposure film into the camera, which I purchased out of date a few months back, I want to walk around the neighborhood to take photos. Unfortunately, my wife was taking a nap, so I needed to keep my eye on our two dogs, who have a tendency to bark when out of sight. So, I just stayed mainly in my backyard to take the photos.

 I have to say the camera was extremely fun to shoot with, but the one thing that kept bugging me was the camera advance knob. I'm just not used to turning the knob counterclockwise to advance the film. It's not that big of a deal, but I kept turning it clockwise for the first few frames to advance the frame. Once I had it in my head that the winding knob was "backward," it went smoothly, and the camera did a fantastic job. 

 Here are a few of the frames from my backyard.

Conclusion:

I don't know how I didn't know about the Futura-S for so many years. It's a fantastic German rangefinder camera with excellent optics. While my camera could use a complete CLA to bring it up to excellent condition, I have to say that for its condition, it did great.

 I can see why this is a desirable camera, especially for the discounted price from top brands like Leica or Alpa. The camera is compact and easy to use, and the rangefinder produces fantastic results.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to read about this underappreciated German rangefinder built in the 1950s.

 I'd love to hear from you if you have any questions or comments about this camera.

 Until next week, please be safe. 

Rajar No. 6 Camera

My Rajar No. 6 camera

I don't know what it is about the Rajar No. 6 camera, but ever since I purchased my first McKeown's camera guide more than 40 years ago and spent hours leafing through the pages learning about all the different styles and shapes of cameras, I've always desired to have one in my collection.

 It wasn't until just a few months ago that I pulled the trigger and purchased one from a great reseller in the U.K. It was listed for parts that were not working. The seller was selling the camera for a friend and wasn't sure if it was in good working condition. They mentioned the shutter fired but couldn't guarantee the other working parts of the camera, so I took a chance and purchased it. I don't know why it took so long to get one.

 The shape of the face and the crosshatching on the camera's face drew me to it. It has a very classy and classic look, which is something I find on many cameras made during this timeframe.

 It took a while for the camera to arrive from the U.K., but it arrived last week, and I was anxious to see its physical condition. To my surprise, the camera was not only in excellent physical condition with no chips in the Bakelite, but the shutter was firing, and there was a roll of film still in the camera, which the seller failed to mention, so I was doubly happy.

 I took hold of the film advance knob to see if the film was advancing, and it was so at this point, I didn't see anything wrong with the camera. Not knowing how old the film was, I went outside to take the last few frames on the included old roll of film, and it wasn't until I got to the final frame I found out what was wrong with the camera. 

 I wasn't aware of what was so different in the film spool until I took the film out of the camera, which I needed to do in a dark bag since the camera stopped winding right after I took the final photo on the roll of film included with the camera.

 The Rajar No.6 camera has a special take-up spool written right there on the back of the camera, "only the Rajar No. 6 spool will fit this camera". I saw that when the camera arrived and at first I thought I couldn't shoot with it because it took a different or special size of film. Nope, it's the take-up spool. At least in my camera, the take-up spool is special and has a square tip that fits into the take-up spool instead of a slot that fits into most 120 spools. 

 It appears the Rajar No.6 has a brass item attached to the metal take-up spool that had become loose, making it impossible for the camera to wind the film to the next frame. The drive portion came loose, and the film wouldn't advance anymore. The disconnect of the brass piece and the take-up spool must have happened during the winding of the film, as it was working for a few frames. Another explanation is that the brass portion was stuck to the take-up spool and became loose after the film was with a few frames.

The Company:

Rajar No. 6 nameplate

Rajar Ltd. was established in 1901 as an offshoot of Brooks-Watson Daylight Camera Company Ltd., which had a facility in Liverpool. The company produced camera film, paper, and Rajar film backs for daylight loading film. In 1904, it moved to Moberly and was renamed Rajar Ltd.

 In 1921, Rajar Ltd. They merged with six other companies to form APM, Amalgamated Photographic Manufacturers Ltd. In London, in 1928, four companies involved in film manufacturing formed APeM, Amalgamated Photographic Equipment Manufacturers Ltd. APeM, which would eventually be rolled into Ilford, which is still one of the major film companies today.

 The Rajar No. 6 camera was introduced in 1929, just a year after APeM started. APeM also produced box camera as well.

The one thing that makes the Rajar No.6 camera unique is that the camera body, faceplate, and back are all made from Bakelite. The Rajar No. 6  was the first camera to have the majority of the camera built with the new material. As I mentioned earlier, it's incredible that after almost 100 years, the Bakelite is still in fabulous condition. There are no chips to be found, and the camera still has the gorgeous shine of the new camera.

My Camera:

My Rajar camera measures 6.5" tall by 4" wide, including the winding key, by 4.5" deep when the camera is extended. My camera weighs 1 lb. 0,6 oz., so the camera is very light. The camera is extremely simple as it has a meniscus lens, and an "Everest" shutter, meaning it doesn't cock. When you move the shutter release from one side to the other, the shutter fires, and then when you move it back, the shutter fires again, so you'll need to wind the film right after taking the photo to avoid double exposures.

There is no aperture setting, as the lens aperture is set to what I'm guessing at F8. The only shutter speed setting is for instant or timed exposures. The Rajar No.6 camera is a strut-style folding camera, which means the camera body pulls away from the body on four chrome rigid arms, as opposed to the traditional folding bed style.

 It took me a few minutes to figure out how to pull the faceplate away from the body, but when I held the camera upside down, the faceplate dropped, and it was easy to pull it away from the body and lock it into position. To close the camera, you only need to pull outward on the four strut corners, and the faceplate folds back into the camera body. There is a small viewfinder on the top of the camera, but this only works for vertical photos. There is no viewfinder for horizontal images unless you tilt your head, which is very uncomfortable.

To open the back of the camera to load film, two clips hold the back onto the camera's body. Just flip back the clips, and the back can be lifted off easily. The Rajar No. 6 camera is a 6x9 format camera and takes eight exposures on a roll of 120 film. Yes, the only difference between the No. 6 spool is the take-up spool. It's not a different film size, as 120 film fits the camera well. I've even seen that Rajar made an adapter to fit onto its square proprietary film take-up end to fit into 120 film spools. I don't have one of the adapters, so I'll need to keep my special take-up spool and reuse it with each roll of film.

My Photos:

Since the take-up spool appeared to be broken and I couldn't pull the film from it, I glued the special square drive area directly onto the metal spool that it was spinning freely on. After waiting an hour or so for the glue to dry, I loaded a roll of 120 film into the camera and onto the special take-up reel. The take-up spool worked wonderfully, and I got through the roll of film without a hitch. In fact, the film transport was extremely smooth.

 Here are some results from walking through my neighborhood with the Rajar No. 6 camera.

Conclusion.

The images have a softness that I find appealing. They are very similar to Lomography-style cameras like the Diana. They seem a bit sharper than a Diana, but the lens has a creamy effect on the images (in my opinion). I enjoy that the corners are rounded on the negatives. I also see that the images extend into the rebate portion of the film's border, as I can see the film name and other information in the image area.

 The camera worked great. The shutter was smooth, and the film transport was even smoother. Once I glued the two pieces together and dropped the film into the camera, the photo-taking experience went flawlessly.

 The camera is compact, rugged, and a real "point-and-shoot" style camera. I aimed the camera for horizontal images and figured the lens on the camera was most likely for wide images, which proved to be true.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes to read about this fun and easy camera to shoot with.

 I'd love to hear from you, so if you have any experience with this camera or any of the others I've written about, please email me.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Kowa Six MM Camera

My Kowa Six MM camera.

For some odd reason, I've always felt negative about Kowa cameras. It goes back to when I worked in a camera store in the mid- to late 1970s. The first job I had was handling camera repairs for the shop, which meant packing up the cameras, shipping them to the manufacturer or independent repair facilities, handling the repair estimates, pricing them when they came back from repairs, and calling the customers to let them know their camera was back and ready to be picked up. 

 I can remember when I received notices from many of the camera repair facilities that Kowa cameras were no longer serviceable due to a lack of parts, and that still sticks in my mind to this day. There was always a thought in the back of my mind that if you had a Kowa camera and something happened to it, it was not repairable. 

 It wasn't until many years later, and when I say many, probably 40 years later, that I visited a repair facility in Los Angeles. This person had many Kowa cameras and said he could repair them. He liked the quality of the camera. These weren't the 35mm Kowa camera but the Kowa Six medium-format camera. At that moment, my thought process switched, and the negative stigma of a horrible camera turned to something somewhat positive.

Kowa Six MM with grip.

 Fast-forward about five years, and I had the opportunity to pick up a Kowa Six MM camera for a reasonable price. I didn't know if the camera was in good working condition, but I knew where to get it fixed if it wasn't working.

 When the camera arrived, I started to fiddle with it for a bit, and my negative thoughts faded when the camera was in good working condition. The Kowa Six had a 55mm f3.5 lens, which I like, and a grip for the camera, which gave the purchase more value. As I was playing with the camera, I went from a negative feeling about the camera from many years ago, to WOW, this is a nice and well-built camera. It was time to put some film in the camera and see what this camera can do.

Company History:

Kowa, a Japanese company, has a long and fascinating history in optics, including producing high-quality cameras and lenses. Founded in 1894 as a trading company, Kowa Co., Ltd. initially focused on textiles and later expanded into various industries, including pharmaceuticals and electronics. Its entrance into the optical and photographic industry began in the mid-20th century, marking a significant era for the company.

Ad for Kowa Six camera.

 Kowa began producing photographic equipment in the 1950s, when Japan's camera industry flourished. One of its earliest camera lines was the Kowa Six, a medium-format 6x6 cm single-lens reflex (SLR) camera introduced in the early 1960s. The Kowa Six and its successors—the Kowa 6 MM and Kowa Super 66—became particularly popular among professional and serious amateur photographers due to their solid construction, sharp lenses, and competitive pricing. These cameras were often praised for their simplicity and reliability. They offered interchangeable lenses and accessories similar to more expensive competitors like Hasselblad.

 In addition to medium-format cameras, Kowa produced a range of 35mm film cameras. The Kowa SW, a fixed-lens wide-angle camera introduced in 1964, was particularly notable for its ultra-wide 28mm lens. Other models, like the Kowa SER and Kowa H series, featured leaf shutters and high-quality fixed lenses, catering to various photographic needs. Despite strong optical performance, Kowa's 35mm cameras struggled to gain significant market share, especially against major players like Canon, Nikon, and Minolta.

 Kowa eventually withdrew from the still camera market in the 1970s, focusing instead on its core strengths in optics and electronics. However, the company remained in the optical field, becoming well-known for producing spotting scopes, binoculars, and lenses for industrial and medical applications. Today, Kowa lenses are used in various professional contexts, from wildlife observation to television broadcasting.

 Though Kowa's time in the consumer camera market was relatively brief, its medium-format cameras have left a lasting impression. Collectors and film photography enthusiasts who value their durability, sharp optics, and mechanical precision still seek them out. While sometimes overlooked, Kowa's contribution to photographic history represents a unique chapter in Japan's post-war camera industry boom.

My Camera:

 My Kowa Six MM camera is 5" tall when the light chimney is closed and 7.5" tall with it open, 4.5" wide including the winding lever, and 4" deep without the lens attached. The serial number on my Kowa Six MM is 325240. The lens on my camera is the first of three generations and is a  55mm f3.5 lens. The serial number on my lens is 153507. One of the great things about the Kowa Six system is that all the lenses have leaf shutters built into them, which is very similar to the Hasselblad system. My Kowa Six MM with 55mm F3.5 lens weighs 4lb. 9.7oz without the side grip.

The shutter speed built into the lens goes from 1/500 to 1 sec. Along with "T" for timed exposure, the aperture ranges from F3.5 to F22. One of the advantages I found about the Kowa Six MM was how easy it is to set the focus, shutter speed, and aperture, which are all located on the lens barrel. Each setting has its ring and is easily moved and marked. The focus ring moves smoothly, and the shutter speed and aperture rings click into the desired setting. The lens also has the flash PC socket, along with a switch to set the 10-second self-timer (V), along with the flash settings for bulb (M), electronic flash (X). The shutter release is on the front and bottom right of the camera body. There is also a locking collar around the shutter release to prevent releasing the shutter when you don't want to.

 When reading about the camera, a few things were mentioned. One of the items mentioned was that the camera tends to move the focus slightly due to the mirror movement, causing the image to lose sharpness. I'm unsure if the focus or the camera is moving, which causes the image to be a bit soft, but I'll be aware of that when I shoot the camera.

 To view your subject, open the light chimney. Pull up on either side of the light chimney, and the viewfinder opens easily. There is a magnifier for critical focus, which you can activate by sliding a button along the back of the front. Sliding the button to the right pops up the magnifying lens. Pushing it down will lock it out of position. The light chimney has hinges on the side that must be squeezed together to close the viewfinder.

You can change to a different viewfinder by pressing a chrome button between the strap lug and film locking lug. Once the button is pressed, slide the viewfinder forward to remove it. You can also remove and change the focus screen by pressing the same chrome button and lifting the focusing screen. Put the focus screen back, line up the red dot on the camera with the red dot on the focusing screen, and drop the screen back into place. Pressing the chrome button to seat the focusing screen into position. You can slide the viewfinder back on, and it will lock into position once it's pushed back onto the camera.

The collar on the body must be turned counterclockwise to remove the lens. Before moving the collar, you'll need to wind the camera so the camera is in the "cocked" position and the mirror is down. You can move the collar somewhat, but until you slide the lens locking button back, the collar won't move the entire way to remove the lens. To put the lens back onto the camera, you'll line up the red mark on the lens to the red mark on the camera body, and turn the collar clockwise to lock the lens back onto the camera body.

To open the back to load film, turn the lever on the bottom of the camera to the "O" position, and the back of the camera unlocks. Lift the back door, which exposes the film chamber. Bring the empty reel from the bottom of the chamber to the top, which will now be your take-up spool. Pull out the film locking knobs on the side of the camera to put in the empty spool and the new roll of film you're loading into the camera. Bring the leader up to the empty spool and thread the lead into the slot and turn the winding knob on the right side of the camera to take up the loose film. There ia a handle built into the winding knob to make the turning of the knob easier. Keep winding until the "start" arrow points to the red dots on the sides of the shutter, close the back, and continue to wind until the winding lever stops. At this point, the frame counter will be on number one, and you're ready to start taking photos.

 The Kowa Six MM will take either 120 or 220 film. If you plan on shooting 220 film, be sure to change the pressure plate to the proper position, and on the side of the camera, make sure you've selected "24" on the selector between the strap lug and frame counter on the right side of the camera. Selecting 24 tells the camera you're shooting 24 images on 220 film instead of 12 exposures on 120 film.

You can also lock the mirror "up" by turning the knob on the right side of the camera to the "up" position. This function reduced camera vibration. You can also do double or multiple exposures on the Kowa Six MM. To do so, after your fist image, turn the knob on the top of right side of the camera from the orange dot and orange line which is for normal film advance to the red dot and red line. This is disengaging the film advance so you can do multiple exposures. Once you're done, turn the dial back to the orange dot and line position, and the film will advance.

As I mentioned, my Kowa Six MM camera has a side bracket, making it easy to hold and handle. Still, I didn't realize how nice this grip was when I went to take it off. Not only is there a nut that hold the bracket onto the camera, but there also a screw that locks the nut into place so it doesn't accidentally get unscrewed and have the camera fall off the grip.

My Results:

Since the clouds were moving in and out, I didn't want to shoot a slow-speed film, so I loaded the Kowa Six MM with a roll of Ilford 125 ISO film and proceeded to walk through the neighborhood, focusing on many of the spring flowers that have been blooming this time of year. After walking around, I went home and processed the film. Here are the results from my walk through the neighborhood.

My Conclusion.

WOW!!! Was I wrong for so many years? This camera worked fantastically and was fun to use. The viewfinder was bright, the magnifier was easy to use, the shutter speeds sounded accurate, and having the shutter speed, aperture ring, and focus all in the same spot was fantastic.

 The film advance was smooth, and carrying the camera with the grip made it very comfortable. I understand why the technician who coveted the Kowa liked the camera so much. The system offers nine lenses from 19mm to 500mm, different viewfinders and focusing screens, so it's complete. The price of these cameras is less than half of Hasselblad's, and they are smaller and easier to handle. I'll keep this camera for a while and see if I can expand the lenses I have for it. While I like the wide-angle lenses, getting an 85mm standard lens would be nice and slightly cut down on the weight.

 I love to hear from the people who read my posts. If you have a question or comment, please let me know. I'm always looking for ways to improve this experience.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Original Model K1 Rolleiflex

My Rolleiflex K1 Camera

As is common for me, I purchased this original Rolleiflex model with many cameras, which included some other items I was more interested in. In the photo of the camera lot, I could see the Rolleiflex name, but the image was so small that I couldn't tell what model it was or even if it was in working condition. I took a shot; as I mentioned earlier, I was more interested in some items, and the Rolleiflex was more of the icing on the cake regarding the importance.

 Once I received the items in the lot and looked them over, the main items were great, and I was happy to have them. I picked up the Rolleiflex and checked on the camera's serial number, which was a low number. I have serial number 118104. From what I can see online, this is one of the first batches of cameras made. While the original Rolleiflex camera was only made from 1929 to 1932, a few modifications were made.

 In the photo, the Rolleiflex looked well used, and the top light chimney looked a bit wonky, which it was and still is today. When I tried to open the top, one of the side wings was jammed closed and wrapped under one of the other side wings, and I couldn't look down the chimney to see if the focusing screen was there. I took out my set of small screwdrivers and unscrewed the top 4 screws to remove the light chimney to fix it and bend the sides out a bit to make the chimney more usable.

Early Rolleiflex name and serial number

 Once I took the top off, I noticed the focusing screen was in good condition and still had the bubble level. It was a very clever idea to put in the camera when it was manufactured almost 100 years ago. 

The Company:

I reviewed the original Art Deco-style Rolleicord a few months ago, and here's what I wrote about the company's history then.

 Rollei holds a significant place in photographic history. Founded in 1920 in Braunschweig, Germany, by Paul Franke and Reinhold Heidecke, the company originally bore the name "Franke & Heidecke." Initially, it focused on precision mechanical devices, but by the mid-1920s, Rollei began producing cameras that would revolutionize photography.

 Rollei gained international recognition in 1929 with the launch of the Rolleiflex, the first twin-lens reflex (TLR) camera. The Rolleiflex was compact, robust, and designed for medium-format photography. Its unique twin-lens system featured one lens for viewing and focusing and another for capturing the image on film. This innovative design allowed photographers to frame shots at waist level, making candid photography more discreet and practical. The Rolleiflex quickly became a favorite among professionals and enthusiasts, particularly for portrait and documentary work.

The success of the Rolleiflex led to the introduction of the Rolleicord, a more affordable version aimed at amateur photographers. Both models showcased Rollei's commitment to precision engineering and optical excellence, which became hallmarks of the brand.

 During the 1930s and 1940s, Rollei continued to innovate, refining the Rolleiflex and Rolleicord lines with features such as automatic film winding and improved optics. Despite the challenges of World War II, the company maintained its reputation for high-quality cameras. In the post-war era, Rollei played a significant role in the resurgence of the German camera industry.

The 1950s and 1960s marked a golden age for Rollei. The Rolleiflex TLR became synonymous with professional photography and was used by renowned photographers such as Richard Avedon, Diane Arbus, and Vivian Maier. Rollei also ventured into other formats and technologies. The Rolleiflex 35mm SLR, introduced in the late 1950s, showcased the company's adaptability to the changing market demands.

 By the 1970s, the rise of Japanese camera manufacturers like Nikon, Canon, and Minolta introduced intense competition. These companies offered high-quality single-lens reflex (SLR) cameras at more affordable prices, challenging Rollei's dominance in medium-format and professional photography. However, Rollei's resilience and ability to adapt to changing market conditions inspired by its history.

In response, Rollei diversified its product line, introducing the Rolleiflex SL66, a medium-format SLR, and the compact Rollei 35, which became one of its most miniature 35mm cameras. Despite these innovations, Rollei struggled to maintain its market share due to its higher production costs and its competitors' rapidly advancing technology.

 In the 1980s and 1990s, Rollei faced financial difficulties, leading to changes in ownership and restructuring. The company shifted focus to digital imaging and niche markets, including high-end studio cameras and digital backs for medium-format systems.

The Rollei legacy endures as a symbol of German engineering and innovation, reflecting a century of dedication to the art and science of photography. This enduring legacy evokes a sense of respect and admiration for the brand's contribution to the field of photography.

My Camera:

My early Model K Rolleiflex is 5.25" tall and 3.5" wide by 3.75" deep. These measurements are with the light chimney closed. If I open the light chimney, the camera is 7.5" tall and weighs 1 lb. 9.7 oz. with the original lens cap and without film loaded into the camera. My camera has a Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 7.5cm f3.8 lens, serial #1310339, for the taking lens, and for the viewing lens is a Heidoscope Anastigmat 75mm f3.1 lens, serial #120850. 

The lens is in an F.Deckel-Munchen Compur shutter with speeds from 1/300 to 1 sec. along with "B" & "T". The shutter speeds are set by turning a chrome ring on the outside of the shutter ring. The shutter cocking lever is on the left side of the camera as you view it from the front, and the shutter release is on the right side. The aperture ring goes from F3.8 to F32 and is set by a sliding ring just outside the shutter ring.

Taking lens, and shutter-aperture settings on my original K1 Rolleiflex

The light chimney or light hood is the most interesting thing about the camera. To open the light chimney, on the back of the camera, there is a small lever you need to press down to unlock the chimney. The front and sides will spring open if the chimney is in good working order. Since mine is not in perfect condition, the front opens, but I need to coax the sides to open correctly. Once the chimney is open, you can view the focus screen.

 On the back of the chimney is a magnifying glass on a spring. It can be flipped over and locked into the front part of the chimney, where it can be used for critical focus. Pressing the front part of the chimney releases the magnifying glass, and it returns to its normal position. 

 On the backside of the front wing of the chimney was a mirror, or a highly polished metal piece that flips down with a lever on the left side of the chimney. When the magnifying glass is in the "up" position, and you flip the lever down, the mirror will be at an angle that you can use the back as a level finder and focus the camera while viewing the image through the back opening of the chimney. I really liked this feature as it gives the camera a lot of flexibility when shooting. To close the chimney, fold down the sides first; the back and the front will close, covering the camera.

On the right side of the camera are two knobs. The larger knob on the top is the film advance knob. Around the knob are numbered from 1-12, but the numbers aren't in order; they go 1,7,12, small space, then 5,3,8, small space, 9, small space, and 6,2,10,1,11. At first, I thought these were frame numbers, but the sequences are so off. I know the first camera models were made for film size 117, and the camera only took six exposures with larger gaps between frames. There is also a red arrow pointing towards the number, but it didn't change when I put the film in the camera and advanced it to the next photo. Maybe someone can explain this sequence to me.

 The lower and smaller knob is the focus knob. On the inside are distance numbers, but there is no feet or meter setting. On the camera's left side is a lug, which was used to connect the strap.

The back door locking mechanism is on the bottom of the camera, and there is a tripod socket and a second red window with a cover. I didn't use that frame counting window, as I used the one on the back of the camera as I would for most cameras. To open the back door to load film, you lift the silver-hinged locking mechanism, which opens the back door. After doing some research on the camera, I found that this model doesn't take 120 film like all the other Rolleiflex models. 

I tried anyway, and it's too wide and didn't fit into the film chamber. Luckily, I have some outdated Agfa 620 films that fit correctly. I put the empty spool on the top. You can pull out the larger knob to load film into the camera, then press it in to lock the reel into place. I put the outdated Agfa roll into the camera, fed the leader into the empty spool, wound the film to start, closed the back of the camera, and wound the film to frame number 1. Now, I'm ready to take the camera out on an adventure to see how the camera performs.

 

My Results:

My wife and I planned a trip to Lake Quinault in the Olympic National Forest, so I wandered the lake's hotel grounds with a fantastic camera loaded with film and took some photos. Here are a few of the images from this trip.

Conclusion:

The camera performed very well, and the images were nice and sharp. The focusing screen was dark compared to the newer cameras. Still, it did an excellent job for a camera almost 100 years old and was extremely fun to shoot with. Due to the age of the film, the images have a mottled appearance when looking at something without detail, like the sky or lake. But that doesn't affect the camera's usability, which was overall very good.

 I'd love to hear from you. If you have one of these cameras and have questions or want to let me know what you think of the camera, please leave a comment, and I'll get back to you soon.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to read about this fantastic camera.

 Until next week, please be safe.