Kowa Six MM Camera

My Kowa Six MM camera.

For some odd reason, I've always felt negative about Kowa cameras. It goes back to when I worked in a camera store in the mid- to late 1970s. The first job I had was handling camera repairs for the shop, which meant packing up the cameras, shipping them to the manufacturer or independent repair facilities, handling the repair estimates, pricing them when they came back from repairs, and calling the customers to let them know their camera was back and ready to be picked up. 

 I can remember when I received notices from many of the camera repair facilities that Kowa cameras were no longer serviceable due to a lack of parts, and that still sticks in my mind to this day. There was always a thought in the back of my mind that if you had a Kowa camera and something happened to it, it was not repairable. 

 It wasn't until many years later, and when I say many, probably 40 years later, that I visited a repair facility in Los Angeles. This person had many Kowa cameras and said he could repair them. He liked the quality of the camera. These weren't the 35mm Kowa camera but the Kowa Six medium-format camera. At that moment, my thought process switched, and the negative stigma of a horrible camera turned to something somewhat positive.

Kowa Six MM with grip.

 Fast-forward about five years, and I had the opportunity to pick up a Kowa Six MM camera for a reasonable price. I didn't know if the camera was in good working condition, but I knew where to get it fixed if it wasn't working.

 When the camera arrived, I started to fiddle with it for a bit, and my negative thoughts faded when the camera was in good working condition. The Kowa Six had a 55mm f3.5 lens, which I like, and a grip for the camera, which gave the purchase more value. As I was playing with the camera, I went from a negative feeling about the camera from many years ago, to WOW, this is a nice and well-built camera. It was time to put some film in the camera and see what this camera can do.

Company History:

Kowa, a Japanese company, has a long and fascinating history in optics, including producing high-quality cameras and lenses. Founded in 1894 as a trading company, Kowa Co., Ltd. initially focused on textiles and later expanded into various industries, including pharmaceuticals and electronics. Its entrance into the optical and photographic industry began in the mid-20th century, marking a significant era for the company.

Ad for Kowa Six camera.

 Kowa began producing photographic equipment in the 1950s, when Japan's camera industry flourished. One of its earliest camera lines was the Kowa Six, a medium-format 6x6 cm single-lens reflex (SLR) camera introduced in the early 1960s. The Kowa Six and its successors—the Kowa 6 MM and Kowa Super 66—became particularly popular among professional and serious amateur photographers due to their solid construction, sharp lenses, and competitive pricing. These cameras were often praised for their simplicity and reliability. They offered interchangeable lenses and accessories similar to more expensive competitors like Hasselblad.

 In addition to medium-format cameras, Kowa produced a range of 35mm film cameras. The Kowa SW, a fixed-lens wide-angle camera introduced in 1964, was particularly notable for its ultra-wide 28mm lens. Other models, like the Kowa SER and Kowa H series, featured leaf shutters and high-quality fixed lenses, catering to various photographic needs. Despite strong optical performance, Kowa's 35mm cameras struggled to gain significant market share, especially against major players like Canon, Nikon, and Minolta.

 Kowa eventually withdrew from the still camera market in the 1970s, focusing instead on its core strengths in optics and electronics. However, the company remained in the optical field, becoming well-known for producing spotting scopes, binoculars, and lenses for industrial and medical applications. Today, Kowa lenses are used in various professional contexts, from wildlife observation to television broadcasting.

 Though Kowa's time in the consumer camera market was relatively brief, its medium-format cameras have left a lasting impression. Collectors and film photography enthusiasts who value their durability, sharp optics, and mechanical precision still seek them out. While sometimes overlooked, Kowa's contribution to photographic history represents a unique chapter in Japan's post-war camera industry boom.

My Camera:

 My Kowa Six MM camera is 5" tall when the light chimney is closed and 7.5" tall with it open, 4.5" wide including the winding lever, and 4" deep without the lens attached. The serial number on my Kowa Six MM is 325240. The lens on my camera is the first of three generations and is a  55mm f3.5 lens. The serial number on my lens is 153507. One of the great things about the Kowa Six system is that all the lenses have leaf shutters built into them, which is very similar to the Hasselblad system. My Kowa Six MM with 55mm F3.5 lens weighs 4lb. 9.7oz without the side grip.

The shutter speed built into the lens goes from 1/500 to 1 sec. Along with "T" for timed exposure, the aperture ranges from F3.5 to F22. One of the advantages I found about the Kowa Six MM was how easy it is to set the focus, shutter speed, and aperture, which are all located on the lens barrel. Each setting has its ring and is easily moved and marked. The focus ring moves smoothly, and the shutter speed and aperture rings click into the desired setting. The lens also has the flash PC socket, along with a switch to set the 10-second self-timer (V), along with the flash settings for bulb (M), electronic flash (X). The shutter release is on the front and bottom right of the camera body. There is also a locking collar around the shutter release to prevent releasing the shutter when you don't want to.

 When reading about the camera, a few things were mentioned. One of the items mentioned was that the camera tends to move the focus slightly due to the mirror movement, causing the image to lose sharpness. I'm unsure if the focus or the camera is moving, which causes the image to be a bit soft, but I'll be aware of that when I shoot the camera.

 To view your subject, open the light chimney. Pull up on either side of the light chimney, and the viewfinder opens easily. There is a magnifier for critical focus, which you can activate by sliding a button along the back of the front. Sliding the button to the right pops up the magnifying lens. Pushing it down will lock it out of position. The light chimney has hinges on the side that must be squeezed together to close the viewfinder.

You can change to a different viewfinder by pressing a chrome button between the strap lug and film locking lug. Once the button is pressed, slide the viewfinder forward to remove it. You can also remove and change the focus screen by pressing the same chrome button and lifting the focusing screen. Put the focus screen back, line up the red dot on the camera with the red dot on the focusing screen, and drop the screen back into place. Pressing the chrome button to seat the focusing screen into position. You can slide the viewfinder back on, and it will lock into position once it's pushed back onto the camera.

The collar on the body must be turned counterclockwise to remove the lens. Before moving the collar, you'll need to wind the camera so the camera is in the "cocked" position and the mirror is down. You can move the collar somewhat, but until you slide the lens locking button back, the collar won't move the entire way to remove the lens. To put the lens back onto the camera, you'll line up the red mark on the lens to the red mark on the camera body, and turn the collar clockwise to lock the lens back onto the camera body.

To open the back to load film, turn the lever on the bottom of the camera to the "O" position, and the back of the camera unlocks. Lift the back door, which exposes the film chamber. Bring the empty reel from the bottom of the chamber to the top, which will now be your take-up spool. Pull out the film locking knobs on the side of the camera to put in the empty spool and the new roll of film you're loading into the camera. Bring the leader up to the empty spool and thread the lead into the slot and turn the winding knob on the right side of the camera to take up the loose film. There ia a handle built into the winding knob to make the turning of the knob easier. Keep winding until the "start" arrow points to the red dots on the sides of the shutter, close the back, and continue to wind until the winding lever stops. At this point, the frame counter will be on number one, and you're ready to start taking photos.

 The Kowa Six MM will take either 120 or 220 film. If you plan on shooting 220 film, be sure to change the pressure plate to the proper position, and on the side of the camera, make sure you've selected "24" on the selector between the strap lug and frame counter on the right side of the camera. Selecting 24 tells the camera you're shooting 24 images on 220 film instead of 12 exposures on 120 film.

You can also lock the mirror "up" by turning the knob on the right side of the camera to the "up" position. This function reduced camera vibration. You can also do double or multiple exposures on the Kowa Six MM. To do so, after your fist image, turn the knob on the top of right side of the camera from the orange dot and orange line which is for normal film advance to the red dot and red line. This is disengaging the film advance so you can do multiple exposures. Once you're done, turn the dial back to the orange dot and line position, and the film will advance.

As I mentioned, my Kowa Six MM camera has a side bracket, making it easy to hold and handle. Still, I didn't realize how nice this grip was when I went to take it off. Not only is there a nut that hold the bracket onto the camera, but there also a screw that locks the nut into place so it doesn't accidentally get unscrewed and have the camera fall off the grip.

My Results:

Since the clouds were moving in and out, I didn't want to shoot a slow-speed film, so I loaded the Kowa Six MM with a roll of Ilford 125 ISO film and proceeded to walk through the neighborhood, focusing on many of the spring flowers that have been blooming this time of year. After walking around, I went home and processed the film. Here are the results from my walk through the neighborhood.

My Conclusion.

WOW!!! Was I wrong for so many years? This camera worked fantastically and was fun to use. The viewfinder was bright, the magnifier was easy to use, the shutter speeds sounded accurate, and having the shutter speed, aperture ring, and focus all in the same spot was fantastic.

 The film advance was smooth, and carrying the camera with the grip made it very comfortable. I understand why the technician who coveted the Kowa liked the camera so much. The system offers nine lenses from 19mm to 500mm, different viewfinders and focusing screens, so it's complete. The price of these cameras is less than half of Hasselblad's, and they are smaller and easier to handle. I'll keep this camera for a while and see if I can expand the lenses I have for it. While I like the wide-angle lenses, getting an 85mm standard lens would be nice and slightly cut down on the weight.

 I love to hear from the people who read my posts. If you have a question or comment, please let me know. I'm always looking for ways to improve this experience.

 Until next week, please be safe.

KMZ FT-2 Panoramic Camera

Since I got into photography, I have been a fan of panoramic cameras and images. The ability to see wide views of subjects similar to what you see in person seems very natural, so it's not unrealistic for me to have a variety of cameras to use during trips and other photographic jaunts I take to make images.

My KMZ FT-2 Camera

I came across a Russian-made KMZ FT-2 camera many years ago when I was a sales representative for one of the companies I worked for. I remember visiting EP Levine in Waltham, MA, and seeing the FT-2 and a Spinshot they had. I asked about the Spinshot because, at the time, I knew the Spinshot was something out of my price range. One of the owners gave me a reasonable price on the camera and case because, like many of these cameras, they take a unique film cassette, which this camera didn't have. I knew at that time I was buying it more for my collection rather than using it, but always in the back of my mind, it was something I wanted to put a roll of film into and shoot with. 

The Company:

KMZ (Krasnogorsky Zavod), also known as the Krasnogorsk Mechanical Works, is a prominent camera and optical equipment manufacturer based in Russia. Founded in 1942 in the city of Krasnogorsk, near Moscow, KMZ played a significant role in the Soviet Union's photographic and optical industries. Initially established to support wartime needs, the company shifted its focus to producing civilian products, becoming a key player in developing photographic technology in the Soviet era.

FT-2 camera, leather case and 2 different 3D printed cassettes

 KMZ became widely known for producing cameras and optical devices for civilian and military use. One of its most famous products is the Zenit series of single-lens reflex cameras, which gained a strong reputation for their durability and affordability. First introduced in the late 1940s, the Zenit cameras became popular among amateur photographers and professionals worldwide, especially during the mid-20th century. These cameras were equipped with reliable optics, often branded under the Helios or Jupiter trademarks, known for their exceptional image quality.

Another well-known KMZ product is the Zorki rangefinder cameras, which were modeled after early Leica designs. The Zorki cameras, like the Zenit series, were affordable and accessible, making photography more attainable for the average user. These cameras are now considered collector's items, valued for their vintage appeal and craftsmanship.

 KMZ also contributed to advancements in optical engineering. The company developed lenses for photography, cinema, and scientific applications, as well as optical sights and instruments for military use. The Helios-44 lens, often paired with Zenit cameras, became legendary for its unique bokeh effect and remains highly sought after by enthusiasts.

 Following the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, KMZ faced challenges adapting to a market economy. While the demand for traditional film cameras declined with the rise of digital photography, KMZ continued producing optical devices and exploring new markets. The Zenit brand was revived by introducing modern digital cameras like the Zenit M, which combines vintage aesthetics with contemporary technology.

KMZ's contributions to the photographic and optical fields testify to its innovation and resilience. Despite economic and technological shifts, the company remains a symbol of Soviet ingenuity, with its cameras and lenses appreciated by photographers and collectors worldwide.

The Camera:

The KMZ FT-2, one of the first 35mm panoramic cameras, is a model of simplicity in design. Its bare-bones appearance, resembling a small black brick, belies its robust mechanical construction. The camera measures 4.75" wide by 3.25" deep by 2.25" tall, including the winding knob, and weighs 1 lb. 7oz. The FT-5 boasts a 50mm fixed F5 lens that swings across the curved film plane to produce 110mm long images on your 35mm film. This unique design eliminates barrel distortion, ensuring your horizontal lines remain straight when holding the camera level. However, due to the extended negative size, 24mm x 110mm rather than the typical 24mm x 36mm, you only get 12 images on a roll of 36 exposures, a testament to the camera's straightforward and uncomplicated nature.

 The FT-2 only has 3 shutter speeds: 1/400, 1/200, and 1/100 second. The shutter speeds are set by changing two levers on top of the camera and located just below the shutter cocking lever. The shutter cocking lever is a larger finger and thumb knob, which you turn clockwise to cock the shutter, and it swings back to the starting position at approximately 11:00 when the exposure is finished. A mechanical braking system slows the shutter to these speeds when shooting at the two slower speeds. When shooting at the maximum speed, the camera jolts when the exposure ends and has a reasonably noisy snap when the shutter spins on its axis and comes to a vibrating finish of the exposure. The shutter release is to the right of the shutter cocking knob and just above the frame counter.

Since the camera produces such a long negative, the manual states that you need to turn the winding lever so that the frame counter does three full revolutions around, then add one number to get to the next frame. So, if you were on frame number 5, after taking the photo, you'd turn the winding lever, watch the frame counter go three revolutions around, and then stop at number 6 to be ready for that photo.

Top view of KMZ FT-2 camera where all the controls are located.

 There is no optical viewfinder, but rather a flip-up mask that you put your eye up to and guess that that's the approximate area that will be in your photo. There is a bubble level on top of the camera, so it's easy to level out the photos. This is not so helpful when looking through the viewfinder, but if you use the camera on a tripod or hold it more at waist level, then it makes sense.

 To open the back of the camera to load film, the front of the camera, in both corners, are silver clips holding the back close to the front. Snap these clips out, and holding the back with one hand and the body with the other, you slide the back off the camera. To put the back onto the camera, there are small channels on the body that the back fits into to slide back onto the camera. Make sure the back fits into the channel slide, then back onto the camera, and snap the clips into position.

Using the Camera:

Fast forward about 25 years, and I pulled the FT-2 out of my shelf and started to play with it. The camera is in excellent mechanical shape, so I wondered if there's a way to adapt a regular 35mm film cassette into the camera for shooting with it. Doing my usual looking on the internet to see what advancements have been made, I came across Roger Hyam's website discussing how he had the same camera and  1 set of cassettes. To make the camera more enjoyable, having multiple cassettes would make shooting with the camera more manageable. Since loading the cassettes is time-consuming, he made film cassettes for his FT-2 with a 3D printer. In that article, he has a CAD design and explains the process.

 At this point, seeing that there is a somewhat easy way to get cassettes made for the camera, I looked into buying a 3D printer for this and possibly other projects down the road. While I still may do that, I found a local company close to my house that does 3d printing, Rex Plastics in Vancouver, WA., and Harvey, one of the engineers who does the 3D printing for the company. I called on a Friday to see if they could do this and sent them the CAD file. While Harvey was off that day, I received a call from him early Monday to say that this could be done fairly easily, and they had produced a Minolta 16 cassette and a 126 film cassette someone else needed, so he was familiar with working with film. 

 On Thursday or Friday, I stopped by Rex Plastics to pick up the cassettes I had ordered, which looked tremendous. They fit into the camera and looked like the items I saw online. I took them home and started to load film into the cassettes, only to find that the design I sent had a minor flaw. Once there was film in the cassettes, the amount of film pushed the knob of the spool through the top of the cassette, making it impossible to fit back into the camera. 

 I told Harvey what the issue was and brought it back to him with film inside to show him the issue. Rex Plastics is such a good company that Harvey said it wasn't a big issue and went back and made the spool smaller to accommodate the film capacity and changed the cassette top to accommodate a different spool that fits into the cassette. This took just a few days, and now I had cassettes I could take home and shoot with the FT-2 camera. One thing I did to the 3D-printed cassettes was to add some felt to the inside cassette to avoid any scratches that may happen when transporting the film from one cassette to the other. I took some old 35mm canisters, pulled the felt off them, and taped them into the 3D-printed cassettes with double-sided tape.

Loading the Cassettes:

Here's the process I used to load the new 3D-printed cassettes with film to put into the FT-2 camera. Most of this process has to be done in complete darkness. I used my light-tight changing bag, which I use to load film onto reels for processing, but this time, here are the items I needed to keep in the changing bag.

 2-3D printed cassettes

1 roll of 35mm film (unexposed)

1 piece of tape taped to one of the spools

1-pencil used to wind film

1-FT-2 camera with the back partially off

 I'll break this down into the steps I used. You may find an easier way, but this process went much quicker than I thought and seemed manageable.

 

  1. Out in the daylight, I took the leader from the unexposed 35mm film and taped it onto the take-up spool. I then took up some of the slack and put it into one of the 3D-printed cassettes. This is what you can do in the light; all the other steps are done in the changing bag.

  2. Put all the items from the above list into the changing bag.

  3. At this point, I wound all the film from the unexposed film into the take-up spool until I reached the end of the roll. To make the winding easier, I put a pencil into the end of the spool and turned the pencil. Do this for step 7, too.

  4. Tear the end of the film of the unexposed film from its cartridge.

  5. Open the second cassette and tape the end of the unexposed film to the spool of the second 3D-printed cassette.

  6. Slide the spool into the second 3D-printed cassette and put it on the cover.

  7. Rewind the exposed film from the first cassette into the second cassette.

  8. Once you feel the leader, stop winding. Now, you have all your unexposed film into the second cassette.

  9. Put both cassettes into the back of the camera. 

  10. Make sure the winding knob is engaged into the first 3D printed cassette and starts to wind, making sure the film is moving across the film path.

  11. You don't need to wind much, just enough to ensure the film is transporting.

  12. Put the back of the camera on the loaded camera and snap closed.

 

Now, you can open the changing bag, remove the film-loaded camera, and wind it to the first frame, which should only take a few turns.

 PLEASE REMEMBER: When you're at the end of the roll, you don't rewind it back into the cassette like a standard 35mm camera. You take the camera and load it back into the changing bag so you can load it onto your developing tank for processing. If you wanted to wind hard enough to pull the tape off one spool onto the other, you could do that, but that risks exposing the film if you don't tape the cassettes closed.

My Results:

With the camera loaded into my newly made 3D printed film cassettes and the sun shining on a typically overcast November afternoon, there was a chill in the air and a panoramic camera in my hands. I walked through my neighborhood to see what the camera would produce. After taking the photos, I was excited to see the results, so I loaded the camera, developing tank, and reels into the changing bag. I took the film out of the camera, loaded it onto the developing reel, put it in my developing tank, and processed the negatives. 

The overexposed area on the left of the images must have caused a slight light leak. Here's what I produced.

Conclusion:

What a fun camera! I really enjoyed using it. Loading the cassettes wasn't as big of an issue as others I've read about make it out to be if you think about the process. If you have one and need technical or repair information, I found this very informative website, The FT-2 Panoramic Camera Guide.

If you have one and need cassettes, don't hesitate to get in touch with Harvey at Rex Plastics. I'm confident he can print some for you, and they can ship them to you.

Thank you for taking some time from your day to read about this fun panoramic camera that produces excellent images. 

Until next week, please be safe.

References:

The FT-2 Panoramic Camera Guide: https://lens-club.ru/public/files/pdfs/4e9b2081c1c77ede9e70d985d6bacc5d.pdf

FT-2 Camera Manual: https://cameramanuals.org/russian_pdf/russian_ft-2_panaromic.pdf

Roger Hyam’s Website: https://www.hyam.net/blog/archives/10727

Rex Plastics: https://rexplastics.com/3d-printing-and-plastic-product-design