Eho Baby Box camera

My Eho Baby Box camera

During my search for cameras, I found many of the very common black folding or box Kodak cameras, as well as the plentiful Argus C3 and Polaroid cameras. However, it's rare to come across something that sparks an interest. I can't define the feeling very well, but when you attend a Flea market or Garage sale and walk up to a table to see something you like or haven't seen before. It's a surprise, and you get a tiny rush from it.

 That's what happened when I first saw the Eho Baby Box camera. I was at a Flea market probably 20 years ago, and a person had a cloth on the ground with several cameras on it. I visually scanned through the lot and found the regular Kodak box, folding and Polaroid cameras, but something didn't make sense when I peeked behind one of the cameras.

 I could see the top of the camera, which had a small handle on it. I thought it was part of another camera, but as I moved a bit, I could see it was a separate camera itself. Thinking, that's interesting, I went in to have a closer look, and that's when I saw the Eho Baby Box camera.

 It really piqued my interest, as I hadn't seen this manufacturer's baby camera before. I've seen and owned the Baby Zeiss box camera, but the squareness and manufacturer were new to me at the time. Picking it up and playing with it, the camera was in clean condition, and the shutter was working, at least most of the time. The camera even had an intact strap with the maker's name on it, which I always prefer.

 Since the camera had a strap and a somewhat working shutter, I wanted to know what the seller wanted for it, so when I asked, the seller said $5.00. Being a person who likes to haggle on price,  I had to ask if he would take $3.00, which he did. I paid the seller the money for the camera, and I was thrilled to have a new addition to my camera family, especially since I discovered a camera manufacturer I wasn't aware of, and for such a small and cute camera.

History:

 Eho-Altissa was a German camera manufacturer with a rich history tied to the evolution of photographic technology in the 20th century. The company originated in 1892 in Leipzig under Richard Knoll as "Photo Spezialhaus" and began repairing and building its own photography equipment from 1904 onwards. In 1910, the operation relocated to Dresden, a hub for Germany's camera production. By 1927, ownership was transferred to Emil Hofert, who renamed it "Eho" after his initials.

 By the early 1930s, the company was manufacturing box cameras, known for their simplicity and reliability, and often rebranded for warehouse and supplier stores under various names. The mechanician Karl Heinrich Altmann designed the notable Altissa Box camera line, which featured an eye-level viewer, differentiating it from other box cameras of the era. Several stereo and twin-lens reflex (TLR) models followed, including the Altiflex in 1937, a notable reflex camera of its time.

Ad for Eho Baby Box camera

 In 1939, the company introduced its Altix series of compact 35mm viewfinder cameras, marking the beginning of a legacy that lasted nearly two decades. The Altix models were key innovations for Eho-Altissa, and their popularity solidified the company's reputation for offering affordable, high-quality cameras with reliable mechanics.

 Throughout its development, the company underwent several renamings. In 1931, it became EHO-Kamerafabrik GmbH. During and after World War II, it transitioned to Amca Werk Berthold Altmann (1940). Altissa Camera Werk (1941), and finally, in 1952, VEB Altissa Camera Werk was nationalized under the East German state.

 World War II severely affected Eho-Altissa; its Dresden factory was destroyed during Allied bombing raids. Nevertheless, the company was revived post-war, with camera production resuming by 1947. The firm remained small enough to avoid early state intervention but was eventually nationalized in 1959, merging with VEB Kamera- und Kinowerke, which was later incorporated into VEB Pentacon.

Camera output ceased in 1961. Notably, the Altix VI model continued to be produced briefly under license in Sarajevo, Yugoslavia, using equipment from the shuttered factory.

 Eho-Altissa produced renowned models such as the Altissa Box series, Altiflex, and Altix, and supplied rebranded products to European photo retailers. Its story reflects the broader turmoil and adaptability of the German camera industry in the wake of economic and political change throughout the 20th century.

My Camera:

 The Eho Baby Box camera is very small, measuring 2 5/8" tall by 2 3/8" wide and 2 3/8" deep, so almost a perfect cube, and weighing only 6.8 ounces. This is one of the smallest, if not the smallest, box cameras I have that still accepts a standard 127-sized roll film, which was common for the time the camera was manufactured. The camera features dual red windows on the back, allowing it to produce 16 3x4cm-sized negatives on a roll of film.

The camera was made between 1932 and 1939 and comes with a fixed-focus Eho Doplar lens that's fixed at F/11. The Eho Baby Box camera is made of metal with a leatherette covering and features a classic chrome ring around its face. The camera has a chrome lever on top that allows you to change the aperture from F/11 to F/22, based on the size of the aperture's opening.

Shutter speed “Z” slide, Cable release socket and shutter release

All of the other camera controls are on the right side of the Eho Baby Box camera. On the bottom right of the camera is a lever with a "Z". This is the shutter speed control. If the lever is pressed in, the shutter clicks at its normal speed. However, if pulled out, the camera can perform a timed exposure for as long as the shutter is depressed. Just above the "Z" lever is a cable release socket. If you plan to take a timed exposure, place the camera on a stable surface, as there is no tripod mount on the bottom, and hold the cable release in for the required exposure time.

It is odd to have a camera with a cable release socket, but no way to secure the camera on a tripod. Then again, the camera is tiny, and adding a tripod socket to the bottom would increase its size.

 Just above the cable release socket is the shutter release, which has a lined grip on the metal, making it easier to grip, especially when needed, as the lever is relatively small. Above the shutter release is one of the two waist-level viewfinder windows. The one on this side of the camera is for vertical, or portrait, images, and the one at the top of the camera is for horizontal, or landscape, images.

To open the camera to load film into it, you'll need to pull out two levers on the right side of the camera. Both levers are located closest to the separation between the front and rear of the camera. Pulling out the two tabs unlocks the front of the camera from the rear, exposing the area where you load the 127-size film. Take the empty spool from the bottom of the camera and place it in the top, which is now the take-up spool. Load the fresh roll on the bottom and pull the leader over the shutter area. Then, place the leader in the slot of the take-up spool.

 Put the back on the camera, and press the two clips to lock the front to the back. Wind the film until you see arrows or some indication that you're approaching the first frame. Wind slowly until you see the number 1 appear in the bottom red window. At this point, you're ready to take your first image. After taking the first picture, wind the film slowly until you see the number 1 in the top red window. This is when you're ready to take your second photo. Follow the same process with the number that first appears in the bottom red window, then in the top one, through number 8. After you take your last frame with the number 8 at the top of the window, wind the film to the end. The film should then be ready to be taped closed and processed.

My Results:

 Before inserting a roll of 127-size film into my Eho Baby Box camera, I tested the shutter. It clicked 9 out of 10 times, so I was confident that even though the camera would miss a frame or two, I'd have enough images from a roll of film to pick four or five to put in the blog post.

 After taking my first image, which required me to click the shutter release twice to capture a photo, the camera refused to cooperate for most of the roll. On the times the shutter didn't fire, I did notice that the shutter would partially open, but not fully, so the film was only getting a small sliver of light through a portion of the lens. This happened for the majority of the roll of film, and I managed to capture only 2-3 fairly good images from it.

 Here are the results of the better images taken:

Conclusion:

 To say I was a bit disappointed is an understatement. I'm more upset that the camera's shutter messed up during the shoot, and when I see how nice the two good images are, it would have been great to have 12-13 more to choose from for the article.

 Overall, the good images are pretty good, so if the shutter were in good working order, the camera would have been enjoyable to carry around or put in your pocket and travel with. It's small, a pocketable camera, and produces nice images; you don't have to worry about a tear in the bellows like with other pocket cameras.

 It's certainly a great camera to have in the collection, and a good step from the subminiature style of cameras and the folding pocket cameras. I like the camera and am happy to have it, although I'm frustrated by the timing issue with the shutter not working.

 Click on the link to see my other Cameras Reviews.

 If you'd like to browse some of the cameras, lenses, and accessories I have for sale, please visit my eBay store at Cuny's Camera and Photo.

 Thank you for taking the time to read about this tiny gem of a camera. 

 Until next week, please be safe.

 

Argus Model C camera

My Argus Model C camera

During my time working in a camera store from the mid-1970s until the mid-1990s, I must have seen hundreds, if not thousands, of Argus cameras, and to be more specific, the Argus C3, or as they were affectionately known as, "The Brick" because of their boxy shape and very sturdy construction. These cameras came in on an almost daily basis just because they were so popular back in the 1940s and '50s.

 I saw so many Argus C3 cameras in my time in the camera store that, when it came to collecting cameras, I had no interest in collecting this particular model. Yet, it seemed like every time I purchased a group or "lot" of cameras, there was always an Argus C3 in the groupings of cameras. 

 I still recall thinking that if I collected enough Argus C3 cameras, I could build a retaining wall in my front yard out of them, as it was cheaper to get the Argus C3 than to purchase real clay bricks.

 To this day, I still see the Argus C3, or similar models like the C2, C3 Matchmatic, or C33, all the time at people's garage sales, estate sales, and camera shows. It is undoubtedly one of the most sold cameras in the history of photography.

 With that said, I'm still looking for one model, which I'm certain I came across during my time at the camera shop. It's the original Argus Model C camera, featuring a dual range switch located under the shutter cocking lever. It's a little earlier than the camera in this blog post, but the pricing for one of these is higher than I'm willing to pay for, so I'll wait and see if I can find one during my quest for a camera. 

 For me, the fun is the hunt for the treasures. The thrill comes from finding a camera or other photo item I've been looking for, especially when it's in an unexpected place and hopefully at a reasonable price.

History:

 Argus Cameras holds a unique place in photographic history as a pioneering American camera manufacturer that made high-quality photography accessible to the masses. The company was founded in 1931 in Ann Arbor, Michigan, as the International Radio Corporation (IRC), by local businessmen including William E. Brown Jr., George Burke, and Charles Albert Verschoor. Initially, IRC's primary business was radios, but seasonal sales fluctuations led Verschoor to seek another product to stabilize revenue. Inspired by the success of his molded plastic radio cases, he envisioned an affordable camera built with similar materials.

This is the early version with switch under cocking lever

 In 1936, IRC launched the Argus Model A, the first low-cost 35mm camera manufactured in the United States. Priced at just $12.50 when most competing models were much more expensive, the Model A democratized 35mm photography and quickly found commercial success. The Model A's innovation lay in its molded plastic body, making it both durable and less costly to produce.

 This success prompted IRC to focus entirely on cameras, eventually adopting the name Argus, Inc. in 1944, and later Argus Cameras, Inc. in 1949. The company's most iconic product, the Argus C3, was introduced in 1939. With its brick-like appearance and robust rangefinder mechanism, the C3 became known as "The Brick" and enjoyed a production run lasting until 1966, with more than two million units sold. The C3 is widely regarded as one of the best-selling cameras in photographic history.

 During World War II, Argus shifted its production to support the war effort, manufacturing military optics and radio equipment for the U.S. and Allied armed forces. By the war's end, Argus had received multiple Army-Navy "E" Awards for excellence in production. After the war, civilian production resumed, and Argus became the second-largest U.S. camera manufacturer, trailing only Kodak.

 In the late 1950s, the company was acquired by Sylvania Electric Products and later sold to Mansfield Industries. Over time, as competition intensified, especially from Japanese manufacturers, Argus struggled to maintain its leadership. U.S. camera production ended by 1969, but the Argus brand persisted in importing photographic products.

Today, vintage Argus cameras, especially the Model A and C3, are valued collectibles. The legacy of Argus endures as a symbol of inventive American manufacturing and mass-market photographic innovation.

My Camera:

 My Argus C dates from 1938, has a serial number of 12127C, so it's not one of the earliest models, but it was introduced before the Argus C2 was introduced in late 1938. The Model C measures 5 3/8" wide by 3" tall, including the shutter release, by 3" deep, including the lens. My Argus Model C camera weighs 1 pound, 7.4 ounces without film loaded in the camera.

The camera has a 50mm f3.5 Argus lens with aperture settings of F/3.5, 4.5, 6.3, 11, & 18, which are odd compared to aperture settings now. The aperture setting is made by turning a ring with two knobs on the inside of the lens that line up with a black line on top of the lens. 

The item missing on early Model C cameras is the coupling gear connecting the focusing ring on the top left to the lens, which adjusts the lens distance during focusing. To focus this model, look through the rangefinder window on the back of the camera, bring the two lines together to focus, and then check the front of the rangefinder dial to determine your distance from the subject. Finally, set that distance on the lens. On the side of the lens, there are markings indicating the focusing distances for the subject. There is an aluminum thread in style lens cap for the Argus Model C camera I own.

The shutter speed dial is located on the top right-hand side of the camera, on the front. The shutter speed settings are 1/300, 200, 150, 100, 75, 50, 30, 20, 10 & 5. There is no "B" setting on the shutter speed dial. The "B" setting is actually set on the "mushroom" shaped shutter release. You can turn the shutter release to either settings, "I" for instant, or to "B" for bulb, or timed exposures.

 The camera's shutter also needs to be cocked before you can snap the photo. The shutter cocking lever is located on the front of the camera, positioned on the far left side, in the middle. It looks like a handle that you flip down to cock the shutter, then springs back up after the shutter is released.

 On the back of the camera are just two small viewfinders. The one on the right is the rangefinder, which has a split that, by turning the focus wheel, will bring two separated vertical lines into one straight line when focused. The other window on the left is the framing window used to frame your subject when you're ready to take the photo.

To open the back to load the film, press the bump on the left side of the camera. This presses in a bar that holds the back onto the body. My camera is very difficult to open by just pressing the button, so I sometimes need to use a small screwdriver to pry the back up slightly to get it to open.

 Once open, the camera looks like any other 35mm camera, with the take-up spool on the left side. The fresh roll fits onto the right side by pulling pot the rewind knob on the bottom of the camera, bring the lead over to the take up spool, and thread into the take up spool. The film advance knob is on top of the camera. To wind to the first frame, there is a small locking lever just behind the frame counter that needs to be pressed down. This unlocks the winding gear, allowing you to wind to the first frame. Close the back of the camera and start taking photos.

This process must be repeated every time you wish to advance to the next frame. Additionally, at the end of the roll, the locking lever must be pressed down to unlock the drive gears, allowing the film to be rewound into the 35 mm cassette.

 The real reason to write about this camera was more of an exercise on how easy it was to use the early Mode Cameras, especially during a time of rapid change with cameras. Like many cameras from this era, it's not the quick and easy cameras of today, where either the shutter or aperture is being set for you. In many circumstances, both settings are being set. 

 To use cameras from this era, you need to take your time and use an external light meter to get the proper settings for your camera. Set the shutter speed and aperture settings depending on the film used. Do you lean more to the aperture and depth of field, or shutter speeds and stopping motion? Then focus on your subject. In this case, focus, then transfer the settings to the lens regarding distance. Frame your image and take the photo.

 On my camera, I also have an accessory finder, which clips onto the top for showing what a 35mm wide-angle or 100mm telephoto will do. I leave it on my camera to hide a bit of paint scratched off by it, as it's more for show, and I don't have either of these lenses. There were several different lenses available for the Argus C line of cameras, as the lens just unthreaded from the body. 

My Results:

 Once you slow down and think about the process, which I'm very used to, the images are really nice. Here are a few from my walk around the neighborhood.

 I photograph similar items, which I am sure you'll notice if you're a regular reader.

Conclusion:

 While the camera isn't the most ergonomic one I've used, it's certainly not the worst.

 The camera performed very well. The images are sharp, and the shutter and aperture were easy to use. The one thing that slowed me down was the process of focusing, then transferring the distance to the lens before taking the photo. The addition of the coupling gear between the focusing wheel and the lens, which sets the distance on the lens, was a vast improvement for Argus. Without this improvement, I doubt they would have sold the number of cameras as they did.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to familiarize yourself with this early model camera from Argus.

 Here is a link to my other camera reviews.

I also have a shop on eBay, Cuny's Cameras and Photo. Please stop by and see what new and wonderful photo items I have for sale.

 Until next week, please be safe.