Nagel-Kodak Pupille

My Nagel-Kodak Pupille camera and case

Just after I finished last week's blog on the Ricoh Auto Half cameras, I was looking around the cameras on my shelf in my office, thinking which camera I'd write about this week. Nothing stood out to me, so I figured I'd let it rest for a day or two and think about it.

 Going to bed that evening, a camera popped into my head out of the blue. Having a thought or remembering something from earlier in the day is something that often happens to me, generally just as I lie down to go to sleep, something pops into my head, and that's just what happened.

 The thought that came into my head was that I remembered having a nice condition Nagel Pupille camera in a box a few months back, which I store with some of my better cameras. That's the camera I wanted to write about for this week's blog post.

 After I woke up, had my morning coffee, I settled into my office and opened the box of cameras to look for the Pupille camera I had. Right on top of other cameras was the case. I pulled out the case, and inside was the Pupille camera. Looking at the camera a bit closer, I say this was the Kodak version of the Pupille, which was introduced a year or so after its release.

Logo on the camera’s back

 It was just as I remembered it. The camera was in excellent condition with the lens cap. The first thing I did was test the shutter, and most of the speeds seemed accurate to my ear. Some of the slower speeds were not closing, which is somewhat accurate for a shutter almost 100 years old. The upper speeds were working fine, so I figured I'd put a roll of 127 film into the camera and take it to the county fair my wife. I were planning on going to over the weekend.

 I recall purchasing the camera approximately 15 years ago at an auction I bid on. At the time, it was a lovely addition to my collection, especially since it came with the lens cap and a nice, fitted case for the camera. 

 The Nagel-Kodak Pupille was a camera I had intended to write about a few years ago when I started my blog posts, but then forgot about it for a while. When it popped into my head last week, I'm thrilled it did. 

History:

Dr. August Nagel (1882–1943) was a pioneering German camera designer and manufacturer whose innovations profoundly shaped photographic technology in the early 20th century. Born in Pfrondorf, Germany, Nagel displayed an early interest in camera construction. In 1908, at the age of 26, he co-founded his first company, Drexler & Nagel, in Stuttgart. This company quickly evolved into Contessa-Camerawerke, and by 1910, it had produced a broad range of camera models, which were distributed globally. Nagel's innovations during World War I included specialized aerial and balloon cameras, and his achievements earned him an honorary doctorate from the University of Freiburg in 1918.

 Seeking further growth, Nagel's company merged with Nettel Kamera-werke in 1919, becoming Contessa-Nettel, which became one of Germany's most significant camera producers. In 1926, in response to market pressures and Zeiss Stiftung's interest, Contessa-Nettel was merged with other major German camera makers to form Zeiss Ikon, with Nagel as director of manufacturing. However, management frustrations and a loss of control led him to leave Zeiss Ikon in 1928, after which he established his factory, Dr. August Nagel Werke, in Stuttgart.

French ad for Nagel Pupille camera

 Nagel Werke quickly gained a reputation for producing affordable, high-quality folding plate and roll film cameras, notably the Vollenda models, introduced in 1929, and the more expensive Pupille, introduced in 1930. This success attracted Eastman Kodak, which sought to compete in the European precision camera market. In 1931, Kodak acquired Nagel Werke, making Dr. Nagel the general manager of the rebranded Kodak AG. 

 With Kodak's backing, Nagel devised the Retina 35mm camera and, critically, introduced the Kodak 135 film cartridge in 1934—a pre-rolled 35mm film format compatible with both Leica and Contax cameras. This cartridge would become the global industry standard for 35mm photography, marking Nagel's most enduring legacy.

 Under Nagel's leadership, Kodak AG's Stuttgart plant became known for its Retina cameras and innovations throughout the 1930s. Almost two million cameras were produced before World War II. Dr. August Nagel died in 1943, but his influence continued; camera production resumed post-war and flourished into the 1960s under his son, Helmut Nagel. Dr. Nagel's career typifies the innovative spirit of early photographic engineering and established many of the standards still recognized in the industry today.

My Camera:

My Kodak Pupille camera is a tiny, compact camera that measures 4" wide, by 2.5" tall with the viewfinder retracted and 3.5" with the viewfinder opened. The camera is 2" deep with the lens retracted and 2.75" deep when the lens is in the regular taking position. The camera weighs 14.5 ounces when empty, excluding film.

The camera captures a 3x4cm image on 127mm film. My Pupille camera has a Jos. Schneider & Co. Xenon 4.5 cm f/2.0 lens. The camera also had the option of Leitz Elmar 5cm F/3.5, a Schneider Xenon 5cm F/3.5, or a Cook Anastigmat 2" F/3.5 lens, all in a Fr. Deckel Compur shutter.

 On top of the camera, there is an optical finder that pops up, displaying a vertical image. If you want to photograph a horizontal subject, you'll need to turn the camera 90 degrees to photograph in landscape mode. Looking from left to right at the top of the camera, there is the film winding knob, the optical pop-up viewfinder, a removable accessory shoe for a separate rangefinder, and under the accessory shoe, the depth of field scale.

To take a photograph, you first need to slide the lens into the "taking" position. This is done by sliding the lever, located under the lens, to the left when facing the camera. Moving the bar slides the lens out from the camera body. The lens is mounted on a beautifully constructed helicoid, which becomes visible once the lever is moved and the lens is in the "taking" position. Around the shutter is a large black ring that focuses the lens. The focus range on the lens goes from approximately 30" or 2.5' to infinity. The numbers on the focusing ring are big and easy to read, and the focusing on this camera is smooth.

When you look at the back of this camera and many other cameras that take 127 size film, you'll notice the camera has two red windows on the back. This will become relevant once you read the loading and winding procedure for this style of camera, which will be explained over the following few paragraphs.

 To load film into the camera, first you need to unlock the body of the camera from the film chamber. You do this on the bottom of the camera by sliding the lever to the "O" position. You'll see a small line on the tripod socket that aligns the "C" (closed) setting with the "O" (open) setting. Once you have the film chamber unlocked, the top portion of the camera slides out of the camera body, exposing the area where the film is loaded into the camera.

 Take the empty spool from the right side by sliding the spool down. The holding mechanism is on a spring, and the spool will come out. Place the empty spool on the left side and ensure it's engaged in the take-up winding knob. Place the fresh roll of film on the right side and tear the tape so that you can bring the film leader over to the take-up spool, ensuring it is positioned over the rollers on either side of the opening where the film is exposed. Insert the film tab into the slot on the take-up spool and wind the winding knob until the word "start" appears on the paper backing. Once you see the word "start", slide the film chamber back into the camera body, ensuring it's fully inserted. Then, slide the lever at the bottom from "O" to "C" for closed.

 Now, look at the back of the camera and start winding the film winding knob in a clockwise direction until you see arrows in the window. This is the indication that you're approaching your first frame, so you should start to slow down on winding the camera. Stop winding when you see the number 1 in the right side window. This is the indication you're at your first image. Once you've taken the first frame, wind the film advance lever until you see the number 1 in the window on the left, and stop. This is the indication you're at your second image. Once that frame is taken, then wind until you see the number 2 in the right window. You follow these steps until you see the number 8 on the left side window, which means you've taken sixteen images on the roll of film. This operation is standard for 127 size film, which takes 3x4cm size negatives on a camera with two windows on the back.

 The standard operating sequence when using this camera is to have the separate rangefinder, which is slid onto the accessory shoe when the camera is in use. 

 

  1. Meter for your subject with a separate light meter.

  2. Look through the rangefinder and focus on your subject.

  3. Find the distance to your subject and focus the lens to that distance on the camera.

  4. Set the shutter speed and aperture setting on the lens. Shutter speed is located at the top, and aperture is positioned under the lens.

  5. Cock the shutter lever on top of the lens at the 11 o'clock position.

  6. Trip the shutter, which is below at the 7 o'clock position on the lens.

Retracting the lens back into the camera body is a little tricky and something I had to figure out, as I had done it wrong once. The first thing you need to do is focus the lens to infinity. Then, slide the bar at the bottom of the camera from left to right, and the lens retracts into the camera's body. If you don't focus the lens to infinity, the bar won't fit into a small cutout on the focusing ring. The bar will protrude from the bottom of the camera, rather than being tucked away neatly as it should be. Once the bar is back in the camera, you can remove the rangefinder, put the lens cap on, and tuck the camera away in its case, if you have one.

 

Something I've seen for the camera is an accessory reflex finder, which was made by Kodak, that turned the Pupille into a TLR camera. 

Results:

My wife and I attended our local county fair, where I loaded a roll of 400-speed 127 film into the Pupille and brought it with me to take some photos. I don't have the rangefinder for the camera, so all of the focusing I did was purely by guesstimation.

 Bringing my trusty Sekonic L-308 meter for accurate exposures, we walked around the fair looking for nice images to take.

 Once I got home, I processed the film, and here are some of the results taken at the fair. I generally only do light spotting on the images, so please excuse the excess dust on them.

 

I posted a video review of this camera. Just click on the image. I’m new to videos, so any constructive feedback is appreciated.

Conclusion:

One of the first things I noticed when using the Pupille was how sturdy the camera felt. It's small and compact, fitting into my pocket, especially when the lens is retracted.

 The camera was easy to use, and the shutter worked well. There were a few frames when I didn't focus properly, but for the most part, the camera did a good job, and it was great fun to shoot with. 

 Thank you for taking a few minutes to read about this almost 100-year-old camera that still works fabulously.

 Here's a link to some of the other camera reviews.

 Visit Cuny's Camera and Photo for some of the items seen on my blog, along with other interesting photo items I have for sale.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Purma Special Camera

As I was cleaning out a box of cameras, looking for the next camera to shoot with and use for my next camera blog, I grabbed a brown case that I had put in the box a long time ago. As I turned the case around, I saw the name Purma on the front of the case and thought to myself, This will be my next camera to discuss or talk about in my blog.

My Purma Special Camera

 The Purma Special is a camera I purchased well over 20 years ago. I remember it was early in my collecting and when I was buying and selling on eBay. I started on eBay as a seller and buyer back in early 1997. When you engaged with eBay then, you didn't have your name as an ID, but they assigned you a number you'd use to log in and for sales purposes. I remember my number was 1032 before changing it to my current name, "Clix."

 At that time on eBay, there were no photos on the site, and it was similar to a message board where people would describe what they had for sale, what you were asking for, etc., Very similar to what Craigslist was before photos. Having McKeown's guide for cameras and thumbing through it daily, I was intrigued by cameras from other countries, and the Purma Special was one that I desired at the time due to its odd diamond shape and the fact that it was made in England.

Because the Purma Special camera is, in my opinion, a camera oddity due to the design of the camera, the shutter used, and the somewhat popularity of the camera, it's been reviewed and discussed by several of my camera blog friends like Peggy of Go Camera Go and Mike Eckman. Still, I wanted to make sure people were aware of my odd and unusual take on cameras from yesteryear, so this is more like Peggy's post about my thoughts on using the camera and the overall take on what a camera gem this is.

My Purma Special with Case

The Company:

Purma Cameras Ltd. was founded in 1935 in London. The name Purma is a combination of the two owners of the company: Tom Purvis, a well-known artist and lithographer who worked for LNER (London and North East Railway) from 1923 to 43, producing beautiful and popular advertising posters. 

Diagram on how the shutter system works on Purma Camera

 The other partner in the company was inventor Alfred Croger Mayo, who, along with Joseph Terrett, invented the unusual and very simple gravity-controlled focal plane shutter used in the Purma cameras. I believe this is Purma's real claim to fame and set them apart from other camera companies of the time. They also had financial backing from David Brock of Brock Fireworks, a company that started in 1698 and is the oldest British fireworks manufacturer.

Purma introduced its first camera in 1936, the Purma Speed. It was an enameled metal and chrome camera with a pop-up viewfinder. The Purma Speed camera had six shutter speeds and looked like a more traditional rounded-corner, rectangular camera.

Ad for the Purma Special

 With the introduction of the Purma Special camera in 1937, the company turned to an all Bakelite camera, along with a flatted diamond shape design with an art deco appeal to the camera due to the thin ridges built into the camera, which extend all around the camera. The Purma Special only had three shutter speeds but has a classic sleek design, and one that was the camera that set them apart design-wise from other cameras. The unique diamond shape and the use of Bakelite, a revolutionary material at the time, gave the Purma Special a distinct look and feel, setting it apart from its contemporaries. 

 The Purma Special was imported to many different countries, including the United States. According to an ad I found from 1939, the camera sold in the US for $14.95. It's my understanding that this was their most popular camera, although I cannot find sales records to prove these claims, as it's just from what I see for sale and the quantity of Purma Special cameras available today. The Purma Special was a popular choice among amateur photographers and was widely available in the market, contributing to its popularity and the large number of units still in circulation today.

There are a couple of unique features of the Purma camera. One is the 'pop out' lens, which is concealed by a thread in the lens cap, a clever design that protects the lens when not in use. When you screw the lens cap back onto the camera, it also locks the shutter. Unfortunately, these lens caps get lost, and many of the used Purma cameras are sold without the lens cap. The second is the use of plastics in the viewfinder. Purma was the first to do this, a pioneering move that made the camera lighter and more durable. These innovative features were ahead of their time and contributed to the Purma Special's appeal among photographers.

Purma also introduced the Purma Plus in 1951, which had an aluminum body and sold for £12.00 at the time. Production for the Purma Plus lasted until 1959. I cannot find why the company stopped producing its camera, so I assume it closed around 1960.

 

The Camera:

My Purma Special camera measures 6 3/4" wide by 2 3/4" tall by 2 1/4" deep with the lens cap on the camera, and the camera weighs 12 oz without the fitted leather case.  The camera has a Beck 2 1/4"  F6.3  lens with a fixed focus from 12' to infinity. Purma did sell a series of close-up and portrait attachment lenses that allowed for focus from 3.5 to 5' but were sold separately. These are items I do not have.

The Purma cameras use 127-size roll film and produce 16-1 1/4" square images on the negative. The Purma special doesn't have a locking mechanism to keep the back attached to the front of the camera. They are held together just by friction, but the back of the camera fits tightly to the front. The friction held back doesn't prevent it from accidentally opening if something were to happen. To open the back of the camera, there is a tiny thumb notch where you put your fingernail in and pull the back from the front.

The camera utilizes two red windows on the back of the camera, so you get 16 frames on the film; the photographer winds the film to the #1 exposure on the left window, then after taking the photo, winds the film so the #1 exposure shows up on the right side window utilizing the same frame number for both the left and right red window on the back of the camera. Once you shoot frame #1 on the right red window, the photographer winds to frame #2 on the left side window, and so on.

The Purma Special has a curved film track that holds the film flat against the shutter with a two-sided pressure plate attached to the camera's back door. The shutter system only has three shutter speeds. The shutter uses a series of different size slits in the metal curtain along with a brass weight within the camera to determine what shutter speed is used. The camera also depends on how you hold it, which would set the shutter speeds used. Remember, the negative is square, so having the camera in either vertical position doesn't change the image in the frame. It will only change the orientation of how the image is captured on the negative.

When you hold the camera in the usual horizontal position, the shutter would shoot, and the medium shutter speed would be 1/150th second. Turning the camera so the advance lever was at the bottom, or the "slow" speed, the shutter, the camera shutter is set to 1/25th sec. When you turn the camera in the other direction, with the film advance lever at the top, which puts the shutter in the "fast" position, the shutter speed is set to 1/450 sec.

Top view of Purma Special camera with circular wheel to cock the shutter, and shutter release

To take a photo, the photographer needs to cock the shutter. To do this, you turn the circular wheel on the top of the camera in the direction of the arrow. There is a small piece of bakelite sticking out to turn the wheel fairly easily. Once you turn the wheel in the counterclockwise position, the wheel will stop, and you'll hear a click which means the shutter is cocked and ready to make the exposure. You can do this with the lens cap on, but the shutter won't release until the lens cap is off. 

 The shutter release is on the top and left side of the camera. Simply press the shutter release to trip the shutter. BUT REMEMBER. Turn the camera as needed to change the shutter speed, especially since the camera has a fixed aperture lens. Wind the film to the next frame, then repeat until. It was odd for me to use this camera as I'm not used to having the shutter release on the camera's left side.

For those interested, here’s the original instruction manual for the Purma Special Camera

My Results:

I did have some outdated Film for Classics 127 film in my drawer, so I loaded up the camera and went to a local waterfall to take photos on an overcast Sunday afternoon. Go figure a cloudy day when living near Portland, Oregon. That will be my life for the next four months or so. The results were OK, but I was mildly disappointed when I looked at what Peggy and Mike did with the camera.

 It may also have been the fact that the film I processed was processed in a different tank than I'm used to using for 127 film, and I messed up putting it on the developing reel, so that was my fault. I have noticed whenever I use the Film From Classics film, the imprint from the paper backing seems to bleed onto the negatives, and I'm unsure if that's due to the film's age and being out of date by a year or two or something else.

 Here's what I salvaged from the messed-up developing roll I put through the Purma Special camera. It's nowhere near as lovely as Peggy or Mike's photos, but overall, it yielded decent results.

My Conclusion:

It was a fun camera to shoot with. Turn the camera to set the speed, point at your subject, and shoot the camera (with your left hand). Wash, rinse, and repeat. I hoped for better results but tried a different reel to process the film.

 Thank you for reading the blog post on the Purma Special camera. I'll definitely use it in the future due to its simplicity and unique shutter system.

 Until next week, please be safe.