Bolsey PH-324A Camera, 35 Model B Special & B3

Composition of my Bolsey 35 B Special, PH-324A and B3 cameras

I've always been a fan of Bolsey cameras, as I've written about them in the past. Many of their models have a highly unusual appearance. Their 35mm cameras look somewhat bulbous from the top, with an odd three-sided removable back door. Yet, they seem to fit in the hand nicely thanks to their quirky form factor.

I've owned many Bolsey cameras over my collecting career, from the twin-lens Bolsey-Flex Trio and Bolsey 8 (both still and movie cameras) to the oddly shaped twin-lens 35mm Bolsey C model. But today I'm writing about their more common 35mm rangefinders—with the fun exception that they come in different colors.

One thing I've noticed is that the red logo Bolsey button on top of the camera is usually missing. I'd guess more than half the ones I've seen have lost this red button, likely popping off at some point in the camera's life. I've had some with and some without, so I generally look for and purchase them with the button intact, unless it's a truly "special" camera.

All three cameras I'm looking at today are based on the Bolsey B in terms of shape and most features. Due to my love for colored cameras, I couldn't resist putting this trio together—mainly for the fun of photographing them side-by-side and seeing what I could come up with for my lead photo.

The Bolsey "Special" is the oldest in my collection, and I purchased it online off eBay many years ago. The thought of adding a red Bolsey to the shelf was a huge plus for me. When I received it and saw it was in great physical shape, I was thrilled. Finding out the shutter and transport actually worked was just the frosting on the cake.

However, it wasn't until I finally pulled it off the shelf, loaded it up, processed the film, and saw the results that I realized there was a major flaw (see the images in the "Results" area). While the rangefinder worked as it should and the pressure plate was intact, the images were incredibly out of focus. I guess one of the lens elements is missing, or something is so out of whack that it ruins the focus. The back looks perfectly fine, so I'm at a loss.

After some research, I learned that some Bolsey "Special" cameras were made for microscopes and scientific purposes. Maybe this lens was specifically calibrated for extreme close-up work? But then again, the rangefinder worked perfectly for distance. It's a mystery.

I bought the second camera, the Bolsey B3, at an antique store in a neighboring town about three years ago. I was walking through the basement section when I came across a booth with a few cameras, and there sat this grey B3. The chrome was tarnished, and the shutter was stuck open, but the top was clean, and it was grey—a color I hadn't seen on a Bolsey before. The price was only a few dollars, so even though the shutter wasn't working, I figured it would make a fantastic display piece alongside my other Bolseys.

The newest Bolsey to join my collection is the PH-324A. This military camera was made for, and used by, the U.S. Signal Corps. This olive-drab camera features a stark black finish and a bold red "Bolsey" on the faceplate. It was part of a lot I bought at an auction house a few months ago.

While I always enjoy finding different colored versions of cameras, the stigma of a "military" model didn't initially excite me. That's possibly because the high prices they usually command typically turn me off—and keep them out of my budget! But the striking black finish on this one really won me over.

After processing the disappointing roll from the Bolsey Special, I loaded some film into the PH-324A and took it outside for a spin. Thankfully, this roll turned out much better, which you can see in the "Results" section below.

History:

The history of Bolsey cameras is inextricably linked to the brilliant and prolific mind of its founder, Jacques Bolsey. Born Yakob Bogopolsky in Kiev in 1895, he first made his mark on the photographic world in Switzerland during the 1920s. There, he designed the legendary Bolex 16mm motion picture camera, a revolutionary piece of equipment that helped democratize filmmaking for generations of operators. He also laid the mechanical groundwork for the Swiss Alpa-Reflex 35mm camera in the late 1930s before emigrating to the United States to escape the onset of World War II.

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During the war, Bolsey worked extensively with the U.S. government, designing durable, high-precision combat cameras for both aerial and ground photography. When peacetime arrived, he leveraged this military engineering experience to enter the booming consumer market. In 1947, he founded the Bolsey Corporation of America in New York and introduced his first major consumer camera, the Bolsey Model B.

The Bolsey Model B was a compact 35mm rangefinder featuring a distinctively heavy, cast-aluminum body. It possessed a uniquely rugged feel—a direct byproduct of Bolsey's wartime designs. Equipped with a fixed Wollensak Anastigmat 44mm f/3.2 lens and a split-image rangefinder, the Model B was both mechanically capable and affordable for the post-war middle class.

The company quickly iterated on this early success. The subsequent Model B2 added double-exposure prevention, while the exceptionally quirky Model C, introduced around 1950, stands out as one of Bolsey's most eccentric designs. The Bolsey C was an unusual hybrid: it functioned as a standard 35mm rangefinder but also integrated a twin-lens reflex (TLR) viewfinder on the top of the body. This let photographers look down into a ground-glass screen to focus, offering an alternative to the traditional eye-level viewfinder.

Later models, like the Bolsey B22 and the Jubilee (introduced in 1953 and 1955, respectively), featured a proprietary "Set-O-Matic" system. This mechanical innovation coupled aperture control directly to the focus mechanism, removing the mathematical guesswork from early flash photography.

Despite their mechanical durability and innovative features, Bolsey cameras suffered from inconsistent quality control in their external finishes. The metal plating on many camera bodies tended to deteriorate or pit quickly. By 1956, facing intense competition from domestic manufacturers like Kodak, as well as highly sophisticated new imports from Japan and Germany, Bolsey ceased camera production and sold his business interests to the Wittnauer Watch Company.

Jacques Bolsey passed away in 1962. Today, his legacy survives not only in the revered Bolex cinema cameras but also in the quirky, durable Bolsey 35mm rangefinders that remain fascinating artifacts of mid-century photographic engineering.

My Camera:

For this section, I'll focus on the PH-324A. The red "Special" is very similar to the PH-324A, while the Bolsey B3 is different mechanically and has some aesthetic differences, too.

The Bolsey 35mm models are sturdy and compact, coming in at 4.25" across, 2.5" tall, and 2.5" deep, weighing 14.9 ounces without film. My camera has a Wollensak 44mm f/3.2 Anastigmat lens, and the serial number on my PH-324A is 95012.

Looking along the top, you'll find just the rewind knob on the left. The middle of the PH-324A features the information plate with the Bolsey logo, reading: "Signal Corps. U.S. Army, Camera PH-324A," along with the contract name and "Bolsey Corp. of America." On the top right is the winding knob to advance the film. There's a helpful arrow indicating the turning direction, along with the instruction to "Lift slightly and Wind." Right below the winding lever is the frame counter.

Top view of the Bolsey PH-324A camera

On the back of the camera are two holes for the viewfinder. The left is the standard finder used to frame your image, and the right is a split-image rangefinder used for focusing. For me, they are a little difficult to use, but I think that's because of the eye surgery I had over a year ago and simply getting more accustomed to using my left eye to focus.

Moving to the front, the viewfinders are at the top. Down by the lens, you focus by sliding a large tab on the left side (as you hold the camera). On the PH-324A, there is a red dot and a slight indent just past the 12-foot mark. This is designed for hyperfocal focusing. Similar to how an Instamatic works, if you set the camera's focus to this point and use a small aperture in normal sunny conditions, your depth of field will keep everything from approximately 5 feet to infinity in sharp focus.

Above the lens are the shutter speeds, which range from 1/200 down to 1/10, along with "B" for Bulb and "T" for timed exposures. The 1/100 shutter speed is printed in red. You turn the outer knurled ring to select your desired speed.

Below the lens are the aperture settings, ranging from f/3.2 to f/22. Set these by sliding the small arrow to match your lighting conditions. The f/8 mark is also printed in red. When you set the camera to 1/100, f/8, and focus on the red dot (around 15 feet), the camera is extremely easy to operate because all the primary settings are color-coded in red.

The shutter release is located around the lens assembly in the ten o'clock position. Just press it down to fire the shutter.

The bottom of the camera has the film door release. Flip the lever to "open," then slide the back off to expose the loading area. From there, you load it as you would any standard 35mm camera.

After taking a photo, you must follow the instructions engraved on the film advance knob. I didn't notice this when I first loaded the camera. The winding gears felt stuck, and I actually tore some of the sprockets right off the film. To advance the film properly,  lift the winding knob slightly, then start turning.

Lifting the knob releases the internal lock on the advance gear, allowing you to wind to the next frame. Without lifting it, you'll tear the sprocket holes just like I did before consulting the manual. When it's time to rewind the film into the cassette, there is no release button for the drive gears. You wind the rewind knob in the direction of the arrow, and the film pulls smoothly back into the cassette.

Results:

Loading up some expired Plus-X film from 1976 (which is still great film, by the way), I took a walk through my neighborhood and captured several of my usual test views.

Here are a couple of the images taken with the red "Special." The final few—and much sharper—images are from the PH-324A, which did a considerably better job!

Conclusion:

The Bolseys are incredibly fun cameras to shoot with and remain some of my favorites in my collection. They are even more fun to use once you read the instructions and learn how to advance the film without tearing the sprocket holes!

The focus was surprisingly easy to nail, even for an old guy using his left eye. The viewfinder was clear, the shutter speeds seemed accurate, and the lens was sharp, producing some genuinely nice images despite the larger grain structure of the vintage Plus-X film.

Thank you for taking the time to read about some of the Bolsey cameras from my collection.

Overall, my experience with these cameras was very positive. While a slightly larger finder window would be nice, I do love shooting with a compact camera every once in a while. I've always felt that Bolsey cameras were well-built, quirky, and an absolute joy to use.

Are you interested in other vintage gear? Here are some of my other Camera Reviews.

Check out my Cuny's Camera Collection YouTube channel, where I am putting together video overviews of the cameras I write about. Be sure to subscribe and like the channel, too!

Cuny's Cameras and Photos is my online eBay store, where you will find some of the cameras I have reviewed, along with a wide range of other cameras, lenses, and items from my collection that I am thinning out.

Until next week, please be safe.

Zeiss Ikon Contarex "Bullseye" camera

My Zeiss Ikon Contarex “Bullseye” camera

Ever since I started collecting cameras, way back in the late 1970s, maybe even the early 1980s, the Zeiss Ikon Contarex, "Bullseye" or "Cyclops" camera has been on my radar to hopefully someday have in my collection. These were the times when my wife and I were newly married, and money was always tight—living paycheck to paycheck.

I can remember seeing the Contarex camera in magazines and other collecting or historical publications. Always in the back of my mind, I thought this was one of the most beautiful cameras ever made. The bulging "eye" over the lens made the camera seem otherworldly, futuristic, and more like an art piece than a camera.

Seeing it many times in McKeown's Cameras price book, which I would devour constantly, soaking in the information on the different camera designs and companies from around the world that produced odd and unique cameras, it was the Contarex that always stood out as an icon for camera collectors.

Fast forward 35 years. It was sometime in the early to mid-2010s when I had the opportunity to purchase one of these wonders of a camera. With extra income to spend on expanding my collection and selling off some cameras, I pulled the trigger at a camera show in the San Francisco Bay Area, where we lived at the time, on a wonderful, working Contarex with the fitted case.

Contarex nameplate

The camera came with the slightly wide Zeiss Distagon 35mm f/4 lens, which was fairly slow, but there are two items I liked about this lens. It's wide—not as wide as I'd like, but it also focuses closer than most lenses. The lens can focus down to 7.5 inches from the subject, almost making it a macro lens. Not quite, but much closer than the standard lens.

The Contarex also has a working meter, which is somewhat rare for a selenium meter system on a camera made in the late 1950s to early 1960s. I also enjoy a more "hefty" camera, since I was mainly raised using the older Nikon F system. Along with having larger hands, these cameras feel more comfortable to me.

I remember when the Olympus OM system camera hit the market in the 1970s. I'd wrap my hands around the smaller body and lenses, and it always made me feel like I was suffocating the camera as my hand enveloped them. Same with the Pentax ME system when they came out, so having a larger camera body and lens has always seemed right to me.

The Contarex camera is extremely solid, well-built, over-engineered, and somewhat weighty. The Contarex has some real heft to it. One thing I wasn't aware of was the camera's build quality, which I discuss below in the history section.


History of the Contarex Cameras

The Zeiss Ikon Contarex, introduced at Photokina in 1958 and hitting the market in 1960, stands as one of the most ambitious and notoriously over-engineered 35mm single-lens reflex (SLR) cameras ever manufactured. Conceived in 1954 under the internal designation "Contax IV," the Contarex was designed by Edgar Sauer as Zeiss Ikon's definitive professional 35mm SLR, intended to replace the Contax IIa and IIIa and, in the company's words, cater to "any photographic task whatsoever."

With rising Japanese powerhouses, the Contarex system was Zeiss Ikon's no-holds-barred flagship—a mechanical tour de force that commands immense respect (and sometimes frustration) in the vintage collecting community today.

Zeiss Ikon Contarex camera advertisment

The first model in the lineup earned the nicknames "Bullseye" and "Cyclops" due to the prominent, circular selenium light meter window mounted directly in front of the pentaprism. This meter wasn't just cosmetic; it represented a massive mechanical achievement. The Contarex I was the first 35mm SLR to feature a focal-plane shutter with direct light meter coupling. The camera mechanically linked the shutter speed, aperture, and film speed settings via a highly complex system of internal cords and pulleys.

While the interchangeable Carl Zeiss lenses produced for the Contarex are still legendary for their sharpness, contrast, and uncompromising build quality, the camera bodies themselves are incredibly intricate. The original Bullseye contains nearly 1,100 individual parts, including roller bearings in the aperture mechanism. Interestingly, the lenses lack traditional aperture rings; instead, the aperture is controlled by a milled wheel on the camera body itself, which directly interfaces with the bayonet mount.

Because of their sheer mechanical complexity, they require highly specialized technicians for servicing—simply removing the top plate requires dismantling 43 separate components. A working selenium meter is often a strong indicator that a specific body hasn't been abused over the decades. For anyone running an online shop or writing historical reviews, finding a fully functional Contarex at a global market is a massive victory, offering rich material for a blog deep-dive or video overview.

Another notoriously delicate quirk is the rewind mechanism. Instead of a direct shaft, it uses a series of tiny gears, making it smooth but highly vulnerable to impact damage. Additionally, interchangeable magazine backs allowed mid-roll film swapping, cementing its status as a true professional system camera.

Despite its brilliance, the sheer cost ($499 in 1961), heavy weight, and complicated nature of the Contarex meant it never dominated the market quite like the simpler Japanese alternatives. Zeiss Ikon eventually produced several variations, including the Contarex Special, Professional, and the electronic Super, before ceasing production in the early 1970s. Today, these chrome behemoths remain a fascinating pinnacle of mid-century German engineering—heavy, beautiful, and incredibly rewarding to study and restore.

My Camera

My Zeiss Ikon Contarex camera is 4" tall by 6" wide by 4" deep with the Zeiss Distagon 35mm f/4 lens, and weighs in at 2 pounds, 8.8 ounces. My camera body serial number is T89707, and the lens serial number is 3703592. You can find the instruction manual for the Zeiss Contarex at Mike Butkus's website, www.CameraManuals.org.

Looking at the top of the camera, going from left to right, is the camera's rewind knob with a flip-up lever, along with a directional arrow indicating which way to turn the wheel when it's time to rewind your film. There is also an indicator or reminder of what ASA (ISO) you have in the camera.

To the right of the rewind knob is an external light meter window. This is the same as you'll see in the viewfinder, only it's to be used if you're setting up from your waist and want to get the meter settings before you put the camera to your eye.

On the very top of the camera is the accessory shoe, used for a flash unit or for an accessory viewfinder which would be used for the widest 21mm lens available. Just in front of the accessory shoe is the "Bullseye" or "Cyclops" meter. Inside the meter are the aperture settings, which are controlled by a knurled ring just to the right of the meter and on the front of the camera body.

Turning this wheel sets the aperture setting, and it will also set the internal aperture needed to make the exposure. This will be transferred through the camera body, setting the proper aperture on the lens through its internal pulley system. You can remove the front of the meter housing, which has a honeycomb appearance, to expose the meter aperture, along with the pulley that activates it.

Just behind the aperture wheel on the front of the camera is the film winding lever, which sits on top of the shutter speed selector. Inside the winding lever is the camera's shutter release, which can accept a cable release for longer exposures. The shutter speed selector has a range of shutter speeds from 1/1000–1 sec, including "B" for timed exposures.

Just under the shutter speed selector is the ISO (ASA) settings. To set the ISO, lift on the shutter speed wheel and turn the dial to set the meter to the proper ISO. The ASA range is from 50–1300. There are also 2x and 4x settings if you want to overexpose in low-light situations purposely.

On the front of the camera, just under the aperture control wheel, is the camera's self-timer, which has a maximum delay of 12 seconds. It can be shorter, provided you don't pull the lever all the way to the maximum amount. On the other side of the lens, on top, is a light window for the internal meter.

Under the light window is the button to remove the lenses. Press in and turn the lens counterclockwise to remove the lens. To mount the lens, match up the two red dots and turn clockwise until the lens clicks into place. On the side, next to the lens release button, is the flash sync terminal, which is where you'll connect the flash cable, since the camera doesn't have a hot shoe for the flash.

Looking through the camera's viewfinder on the rear of the camera, you'll see the three different focusing types incorporated into the focusing screen. On the outer portion is ground glass, in the very middle is the split image, and circling the split image is a microprism focusing area. Some people have difficulty with the split image, especially with slower lenses, where one of the halves blacks out and they cannot find the vertical or horizontal line to bring together. That's caused by the pupil of your eye not being centered in the focusing screen. If you move the camera up or down, you'll notice this changes from top to bottom, but once centered, the split image becomes whole, and you'll be able to focus more easily.

On the right side of the focus screen is the meter window. Inside the meter window is a line. The goal of proper metering is to get the line in the middle for a properly exposed image. When the line is above the cutout area on the left, you're overexposing, and when below, you're underexposing. The meter allows you to set either the shutter speed, then move the aperture wheel to line up the exposure, or you can set the aperture and move the shutter speed to get the meter needle in the center. It all depends on whether you want to stop action (shutter speed) or get more/less depth of field (aperture).

To open the camera to load film, there are two latches on the bottom of the camera that need to be turned, which allow you to slide the back off the camera and expose the film chamber. Once the back is removed, you'll load the 35mm film like you would any other 35mm camera. Once the film is loaded, put the film back into the grooves in the camera body, and slide the back up and into position on the back of the camera. Once it's on, lock the two latches and flip down the handles so the camera sits flush.

When you get to the end of the roll, and it's time to rewind the film back into the cassette, one of the latches on the bottom of the camera has an "R" for rewind. Lift the handle of this latch only, and turn the lever until the handle is pointing at the "R" (for rewind). Flip up the handle on the rewind knob and rewind the film back into the 35mm cassette. Once the film is rewound, turn both levers to the open position, take the back off the camera, and remove the film for processing.

Now that we have film loaded into the camera, let's take it for a walk around the neighborhood and see how the camera performs.

My Results

I didn't have any fresh film to shoot through the Zeiss Ikon Contarex camera, but I did—and still do—have some outdated film from 1976, Plus-X 135 film, which I took from the inventory I have from my online store.

 Shooting the film at approximately ISO 50 and processing the film in Rodinal at 1:25, here are the results I achieved with the camera.

Conclusion

The camera performed flawlessly. While this was the first time actually shooting with the Contarex camera, I was surprised at how close you could focus with the lens. All of the images were handheld, and the day was somewhat overcast so that the images would be a bit flat in the lighting, but overall, the camera and lens were fantastic.

 The aperture wheel and light meter worked as they should, and the lens's sharpness is incredible. While the camera is big and heavy for many, it felt very comfortable in my hands.

I now understand why so many people enjoyed using this camera, as it is over-engineered and almost impossible to get serviced. While mine is working well, I'll definitely be taking the camera for many more walks shooting film with it.

 Here are some of my other Camera Reviews.

 Check out my Cuny's Camera Collection YouTube channel, where I am putting together video overviews of the cameras I write about. Be sure to subscribe and like the channel, too!

 Cuny's Cameras and Photos is my online eBay store, where you will find some of the cameras I have reviewed, along with a wide range of other cameras, lenses, and items from my collection that I am thinning out.

 Until next week, please be safe.